Official Fuel injection questions thread

[Franklinstower]

damn it...it wasn't a loose wire connection at the TS2 after all, the TS2 spacer corroded the threads to dust in the head.

So, JB Weld? Helicoil? Timesert? I am not sure if JB weld, being an epoxy would be conductive.

What have others done?
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[busdaddy]

Thread repair coil or insert of some sort, JB weld won't do it there.

Have a look at the RH head near #1 cylinder, if they are aftermarket heads there may be another sensor hole there already.

If not you'll have to fix that hole, M10X1.0 is the size and pitch.
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[Franklinstower]

To finish this up with a happy ending... I found these sleeves: m10x1 - 12x1. Reemed and tapped the head, got the new TS2 installed, and it's running perfect again.

_________________
'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[Calipeet]

Hi everyone! Looking for advice on a 1979 Super Beetle. No power to the fuel pump, after troubleshooting through all steps in my Bentley Manual, we determined the double relay is bad. I have been searching all over the internet for a replacement, but they are all back ordered or out of stock. Is there a known work around? Perhaps two individual relays that fit? Or does anyone know of a reputable place that has them for sale?

[busdaddy]

Welcome!

Are you confident the little brown wire is securely connected to the negative battery terminal? If yes and the relay is truly bad there's options here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ton=Search

Or open yours up and see if it has a burnt trace on the printed circuit board: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
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[Calipeet]

Yes, little brown wire is connected to ground. I can’t remember which, but it was either terminal 88y or 88d that didn’t light up on my test light upon cranking. All other terminals seem to function. I followed the Bentley troubleshooting to a tee.
Will the double relay specified for a bay window work the same in the beetle?

Thanks for your help.

[busdaddy]

Baywindow and early vanagon all share the same relay with beetle, they are all L-jet, some have plastic cases in black or blue, some have metal cases, the insides all work the same.

88d is one of the terminals fed by an internal link, there has been quite a few cases of that solder stripe on the PC board failing lately, you can't make it any worse by opening it up to look.

If all else fails there's a home brew relay described here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=586243&highlight=relay+repair

And just so you are clear on the inner workings look at this:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=334340&highlight=relay+explained
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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[christyxy]

Had my 79 FI cabriolet a year now, running quite well. I realised my double relay has been bypassed for the fuel pump by a previous owner... The rear window seal was leaky so I think the relay got wet or something (I've replaced the seal now) and when a new fuel pump was installed, whoever did it chose not to hook it up to the double relay for some reason.

The wires to my fuel pump are instead hooked up directly to the car battery, with I think a single relay in line so that you hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key to first position before ignition/starter motor engages. I've been told it's kinda dangerous, as the fuel will keep pumping in the event of a crash/engine fire until the key is turned fully off. Runs and starts great for now though...

I have just acquired a replacement double relay from someone who recently sold their own FI bug, so will see about restoring it to factory spec in future. Just wanted to say that it clearly can be done without the double relay though as mine is like that. Can investigate the wiring set up more if you like, though there may be better advice for how to do it on here already...

[cfroderman]

Samba Experts - I've asked quite a few questions on here and have never been disappointed. Previous posts will explain the project. '76 SB Convertible. Still FI.
Problem - I've been driving this vehicle most of the summer with only a few hiccups. Primarily battling some faulty TS2 but I think I have that figured out. All of a sudden I'm now having trouble starting it and keeping it running. As of late, I would start it, it would run for a few seconds and then die. If I tried to use the accelerator to keep it running, the engine would sputter, be sluggish and backfire. As soon as I took the foot off the accelerator it would die. As I was working on it today, I did the following:

1. Added fresh fuel - No change. - Wouldn't start
2. inspected the distributor cap (pictures below). Cleaned the rotor cap with contact cleaner.
3. Verified that the fuel pump was working by depressing the AFM flap with the ignition on.

When I depressed the AFM flap, the fuel pump seemed to start at a higher pitch and then gradually go to a lower pitch. Maybe the fuel pressure was reaching equilibrium?

After 2 & 3, the engine started and ran smoothly at idle.

My question - Based on the photos of the distributor cap - Do I replace that or do I investigate fuel pressure , fuel filter, etc?

[busdaddy]

I see nothing wrong with that cap, it doesn't even really need scraping with a knife to remove the green buildup. How do the points look?, got a spare condenser?, might be worth swapping just in case.

But that fuel pump sound may be something, is it just pressure bleeding off when sitting?, or a restricted tank outlet or filter choking the pump?, a pressure test while re creating that sound would be time well spent to start with.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[VW_Jimbo]

Chase the fuel pump, if that is a possibility. But…..

I chased a poor starting/running issue for several months. Found a few issues during my battle with the car.

First issue was a burned through ignition rotor. If you have a no spark (intermittently) then, remove the rotor, flipped it so you are looking at the shaft input end and look for a very black spec, up inside that cavity! That is where spark is leaking out to the steel distributor shaft!

My next find, a few weeks later was a weak coil. No biggy there. Just a spark checker!

Next up was the morning the new Bosch blue coil died. Got a Pertronix coil and all good!

Next time it was just a no spark issue. Suspect of the old Pertronix distributor, I took a spare old Bosch points distributor out and plugged it into the car. Ground the body of the distributor with a wire clip. Attached the condenser lead to the coil, attached the high tension output to a spark plug (grounded to the engine). I then turned on the key and spun the Bosch distributor by hand. Sparks snapped across the spark plug! Changed out the distributors and it has been running better than it did, 2 years ago! Damn Chinese parts! When will I finally give up on the Chinese parts?
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[cfroderman]

[busdaddy]

No screen in a FI tank, just a 5/16" pipe, but if there's a floatie in there like that little bit of plastic that comes on the top of fuel treatment bottles it could manage to get on the tip of the pipe and restrict flow temporarily. The modern way to find it is rent a snake style inspection camera and probe the tank.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[MuzzcoVW]

Check all the above, also pay close attention to the hoses under the tank. Many times a noisy/humming pump is a kinked line, or clogged filter or tank outlet/return. A pressure check is in order, and will also let you know if the pressure regulator is working properly.

[PuddleRainbow]

Hello, does the FI intake plenum need to be split to be removed? I think I see a the edge of a nut down there. Thanks.

[MuzzcoVW]

[PuddleRainbow]

[PuddleRainbow]

Removed the plenum. Oh boy if you got one don’t look too close. I’ll upload pics of 47 years of accumulated crud soon.

There was a gasket and I can’t find one for sale. I suppose a layer of Dirko should be enough to seal it back up?

[L51C_75]

I made a gasket from gasket paper from FLAP, and just sealed with Curil T, seemed to work so far.

[PuddleRainbow]