Fuel Injection to Carb Conversion 1978 Super Beetle

[dieselboy33]

Hello,
We bought the fuel injection to carb conversion kit from JBugs and are wondering if we have to take the engine out of the car to install? Any helpful tips? Thanks in advance!

[scrivyscriv]

I looked up the kit and it doesn’t seem like you technically HAVE to pull the engine out for it. But it would definitely make things much easier. Probably the hardest part is divided up between getting the intake manifold castings off and back on, and getting the other parts out of the way to remove the alternator stand.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[busdaddy]

It's obligatory for me to say you are nuts to get rid of the FI, swapping to a carb is like putting a pebble in your shoe on purpose. But it's your car so do as you please.

I'd drop the engine, you have to split the plenum to get the alternator stand off, there's some nuts on the front side that are almost impossible to reach with the shroud in place. And you'll likely want the shroud off when it's time to drill for the throttle cable, hitting the oil cooler will ruin your day. Swapping all the exhaust is also so much easier when the engine is out, that kit does include carb style heater boxes, lower and rear tins and a muffler right?. because it'll run even shittier without manifold preheat.

Don't damage any of the FI parts removing them, there's many people here who know just how superior that system is and will gladly take it off your hands.
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[MuzzcoVW]

X2 with Busdaddy... Absolutely nuts to get rid of the F.I. If you actually do, please don't throw the stuff away

[dieselboy33]

Thank you to all that have replied. As far as why we are removing the fuel injection, we have had nothing but problems with the car. We can't drive it more than a mile and it starts bucking and has no power at all. WE would love to just fix it but have no reference to do so. A friend told us to swap out the fuel injection and it would be better. Does anyone have a suggestion of a repair manual or a reference for help?

[busdaddy]

[dieselboy33]

In addition to that, where can we get parts for the car? We had to get a plug recently and it was like pulling teeth. I saw people saying they replaced their mass air flow sensor, but I was not successful in finding one to try. We have always been VW fans, but have never had a Beetle, sorry for the ignorance. We just want to be able to drive the car and have fun. I appreciate any help. Thanks!

[busdaddy]

There's a good selection of parts in the Samba classifieds, some are shared with other models and makes and can be sourced in various places both new and used. Depends exactly what you are after.

Usually there's not much need for replacement parts, these systems are very robust and usually just suffering from 45 years of neglect. Avoid shooting the parts cannon at it, diagnose and test each component thoroughly first, 99% of the time it's something small and simple.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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[dieselboy33]

Thanks, we have done a tune up. We will do the fuel pressure test, we are thinking it might be the fuel pump too. It seemed like it over heated last time we took it out and had to get towed.

[dieselboy33]

I have confirmed that the vacuum, retard canister has failed. How critical is this for the fuel injection? I have measured total timing at 32 degrees.

[borninabus]

it is not critical at all.

you have to disregard the book idle spec though and time it as an svda....which is 28-32deg maximum mechanical advance. hook your advance hose back up afterwards and make sure you are getting proper vacuum advance. leave the retard port on the dist open, but plug the hose off @ the manifold as it is introducing unmetered air into the mix--which is bad.

no one here is going to encourage you to replace your FI with that shitty carb conversion kit


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88 Van WBX, A/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[dieselboy33]

Thank you, I will be working on it next weekend, I'll keep you posted with additional questions I am sure!

[KKiley]

For $7-8.00, I would try a new condenser 1st. I went thru 3 of them before I got a good one.
New parts are hit or miss for quality.
Good luck!
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1978 Super Beetle convertible

Click to view image

[Franklinstower]

last year I picked up a 75 FI beetle that had been sitting for over ten years. I didn't want to attempt to even start it without first pulling, cleaning and sealing the tank due to some rust, replacing EVERY fuel and vacuum line front to back. Checking the flow of the fuel pump, replacing the plugs, wires, cap / rotor and points. I went on to examine the injectors and ended up replacing all four. Checked and set valve clearance. Then an oil and filter change before I was even ready to attempt to start it. A quick check of the double relay signaling the FP by pushing on the AFM flap and It started immediately and runs better than any stock beetle that I have owned. I would never consider pulling the FI and going carbs unless I was building a big engine.

So my advice, along with every other FI owner, is keep it stock!

Really, the issues arise from the same things that will make your carb conversion not run either....

I would guess the majority of FI bugs that don't run right have either:
Vacuum leaks
Bad Head Temp Sensor
Incorrect fuel pressure

The system is quite easy to figure out, is really robust, and the FI sticky here is your golden ticket to get your bug running on the FI. If you start with a solid platform, your diagnosing will be so much easier. Don't give up on it yet!
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[MuzzcoVW]

[MuzzcoVW]

[Franklinstower]

the Injector seals are really cheap and pretty easy to replace. I think I got my seals from Napa - all 4 for under $10. If I only get 5 years from them, I will still be pleased.
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[dieselboy33]

So, we have been going thru the car and had the injectors cleaned and checked. The cold start works perfect so it might have been a bad connection and I am replacing the temperature sensor. I found that the egr valve filter is missing and I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced this with a tube? Right now there is nothing there it is just missing, I suppose it just rusted off. Also, wanted to ask if anyone knows the best aftermarket center caps to fit the Formula Vee Turtleback wheels? We picked up a set of wheels and I know I cant find original ones. I just want to make sure that they fit properly. Thanks again for everyone's help!

[busdaddy]

You can replace the gasket where the EGR connects to the intake manifold with a solid one, that disables the system and rules out potential vacuum leaks. Cap the connection at the exhaust as well.

EGR filters are available new if you are going for a 100% stock look.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[dieselboy33]

Thank you. Did you make the closed casket or is there somewhere to buy one?