I'm a newbie, Wanna buy!

[Wkr26]

Very interested in getting a Baja, grew up in SW US, now live in NE. Looked on Craigslist. Found a decent looking 65 for $4000 OBO

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/d/groton-1965-baja-beetle/7620189654.html

Gonna take a look at it if I get the chance and look for any issues, IE rusted frame, runs well, etc. Wanting to see if there is anything to look for/be aware of? If I need to do any body damage what year bodies could I look at for replacement parts? What motor is in it? what common problems do they have? Any info would help [/b]

[jinx758]

Howdy ... and welcome !

Looks can be deceiving :
Be wary of shiny paint but it could've been done rite.

That horn button on dash is a red flag that a P. O. didn't fix the wiring correctly so there may be other short cuts.

*Grab silver pulley on engine with two hands @ 9&3 o'clock and push&pull front to back. Any movement could mean time to rebuild ... not sure if maintenance was done regularly or correctly.

*Bring magnet folded in a cloth. Run it between the tires on the bottom 6-8 inches of body . It won't stick to Bondo.

*Test brake pedal before test drive, hope all gears are easy to find without grinding, shaking, or popping out.
Does it track straight, esp while braking ?

*Pull up on E-brake handle. Count # of clicks before it stops - moderate pressure. 3 to 4 is good, 5 to 7 the brakes need adjusting.

*With strong flashlight look behind all wheels, looking for bubbles or wrinkled metal. Also peek under back seat & under entire car for rust or patches.

Hard to tell engine size without tearing it down.

Be aware ... these cars REQUIRE regular maintenance.
Best if you can do your own wrenching.

I'd be SO tempted if it were closer cuz the wife wants a Baja.

Best luck ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[BFB]

I’d say if it runs and drives it’s pretty much worth the $4000, but id offer him 3000 and go from there.
Biggest deal breaker for me would be floor boards rusted out, not that I couldn’t replace them , just wouldn’t want to.
I always figure wiring will have some issues, brakes will need to be replaced, and oil change, tune up, & valves adjusted all always need done.
And as long as engine is running your good because youll probably be putting a bigger engine in it in the next year or two anyhow.
_________________
Forced induction can overcome a lot of obsticles that gets in it's way
"You are the Engineer and the Mechanic.  
Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1

[66 Shorty]

I took this for a ride when the PO was selling it in RI. At the time it needed a front end rebuild, & heater channels at best... I forget how solid the floors were or not though. The floor pans are much easier to replace than the heater channels... Most I would offer is $2500.-$3000... But, it's completely up to you! I already had a Bug & didn't NEED this one, I just figured if it was in good shape, I could use it, but, it does need work to make it a daily driver or a Weekend driver... Good luck!

[Mal evolent]

Click on the Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins links below and read all.
_________________
73 Beetle Baja, Ghia front brakes, Type 3 rear brakes, 2220 ( 94 X 80 ), Weber Progressive, Bosch SVDA, '97 Mustang seats

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

[Ratt]

If you dont have a copy of "How to keep your Volkswagen alive for the complet Idiot" by John Muir, Id start with a copy of that. He has a whole chapter about pre-purchase inspection. Its pretty solid. and the book is an amazing tool to use. I still use it even after 25 years of working on these things.

The Bug appears to be on the Naval Submarine Base there in Groton. Funny I never saw it when i was there. being an east coast bug, really look for rust. bubbles, bondo are a good indication. that paint looks really clean. shake the car and listen for clunks. Loose steering, worn wheel bearings, loose brake drums. all easy fixes, but add up fast.

Good luck with your Bug-adventures.

[Dusty1]

Having owned over 100 East Coast VWs...

East Coast Baja Bugs are generally hacked wannabes made out of rusty stockers. I'd say half of them are just plain horrible. More than half of the other half have been "restored" or "customized" with nonsense only a mother could love. That's great if it's your VW and you're its "mother", not so great if your idea of "restored" or "customized" doesn't line up with the P.O.'s.

I figure it's worth driving out to at least Colorado and buying a rust free body. Solid "Baja" bodies sell for chump change out West. They're way cheaper than they would be if you pay to have the inevitable rust repair done back East.

Look at a proper

Class 11

Class 5/1600

Class 5

Old school Class 5 is way too specialized for part time street duty back East.

A retired SCORE / HDRA 5 / 1600 is cool if you can find one.

You may find an real Class 11 is still way OTT for part time street use.

Having said that,

Class 11 is cool because you'll often see the ball joint / IRS setup that's generally regarded as too weak for hardcore off rood use. "Too weak" offroad, just about right for weekend bashing. The really cool thing about a faux Class 11 is you have the full weather protection of the stock body. That's useful if you're stuck in downpour in Boston traffic.

By the same token, a real Class 5 would suck on I-95 in the rain. As competent as it might be offroad, it's slow on the road and it has minimal weather protection.

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