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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2024 1:44 pm Post subject: 68 speedometer woes |
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I recently bought a 68 beetle, and as expected, I’m working out the bugs (no pun intended,).
One issue is the speedometer was noisy, and speeds were reading low and not steady. I replaced the cable with new, and it seemed to get rid of most of the noise for about two miles, then it failed.
Got home, pulled the cable to find it snapped.
Plugged the old cable into the speedometer and I couldn’t turn it at all. The old cable actually spins fairly well when not connected.
So… looks like the Speedo is fried. Tried some silicone spray, no improvement.
The speedo PN is 113957023C
I found one with the PN 113957023D for $85
Can anyone tell me if this is OK, or should I hold out for one with the same PN?
Thanks! |
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67rustavenger Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015 Posts: 10371 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2024 2:09 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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You could consider a speedo restoration.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=875460
I recently bought a replacement for my 67 and I am disappointed with the functionality.
I doesn't read accurately other than the miles traveled. _________________ I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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cletus_zuber Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2010 Posts: 2459 Location: Gladstone, Ore
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Posted: Mon Nov 11, 2024 8:52 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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I'm guessing the 23D is a later model of speedo, maybe a 73 and up 100MPH or a black faced 90MPH. so would fit and be OK.
Look at the link Rustavenger posted to see the differences.
$85 for an unknown condition speedo seems high though. _________________ 1972 1302
HPMX 40's & 019 |
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meranda Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2015 Posts: 305 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2024 4:29 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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As I remember the 68 has a one year only speedometer.I would take it a motor instrument repair place. _________________ Currently filling the garage
1961 beetle cabrio
1971 Superbug
1974 Porsche 911S Targa
1968 1500 Beetle A Project!
Past Garage fillers dozens of type1 &type3 VWs
Jaguar Mk5 & XK120
Lancia Flavia Coupe
Alfa Guilia sedan |
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meranda Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2015 Posts: 305 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2024 4:29 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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As I remember the 68 has a one year only speedometer.I would take it a motor instrument repair place. _________________ Currently filling the garage
1961 beetle cabrio
1971 Superbug
1974 Porsche 911S Targa
1968 1500 Beetle A Project!
Past Garage fillers dozens of type1 &type3 VWs
Jaguar Mk5 & XK120
Lancia Flavia Coupe
Alfa Guilia sedan |
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Chinaclipper Samba Member
Joined: October 03, 2019 Posts: 732 Location: Somewhere in the great Midwest
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2024 9:48 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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Ya know, I had this exact same issue with my 1971 rebuild. Is it the cable, or the speedo?
Here's what I did:
I bought a new cable, and poured some transmission fluid down the cable. Yes, trans fluid. I read somewhere that trans fluid is GREAT for lubrication of these cables.
I just used a cap to put the fluid in. Then you twirl it over your head like a cowboy lasso to get it to go all the way down (centrifugal force)
Well, I tell ya, that speedo is so smooth now, like butta'!
No skips or blips or oscillations at all, and at all speeds.
Done! _________________ China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight= |
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viiking Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 2968 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2024 2:43 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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I have a 68 with the "one year only" speedometer. It's not difficult to pull apart and do a reasonable refurbishment job.
If you take your time and be reasonably gentle most people can do it.
More than likely the speedometer gears are either broken (low probability) full of crap or just have hardened grease.
There are posts on the SAMBA that show how to do it. It also gives you the opportunity to replace the gels on the indicator lights, clean the inside of the glass etc. Also if you have to remove the dial face, just be careful and use a proper sized screwdriver to remove the small screws. Nothing worse than seeing the screws all goobered up every time you check what speed you are going at.
The critical steps are splitting the body apart without doing damage to the bezel and most importantly removing and replacing the speedo needle without damage. Again SAMBA search is your friend. _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 11:25 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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As a follow up:
I had my speedo rebuilt by a business that advertises here on TheSamba. Speed registers close enough (35 indicated is actually 37 MPH).
I found that my fuel gauge is off by a quarter tank (3/4 indicated is actually full). Since I just got the car, I believe it was likely inaccurate when I bought it).
Electrical connections are cleaned.
Any ideas? Gauge or sending unit?
Or should I start a new thread?
Many thanks to all who responded. |
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baldessariclan Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 1765 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 12:45 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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lambetti wrote: |
I had my speedo rebuilt by a business that advertises here on TheSamba. Speed registers close enough (35 indicated is actually 37 MPH). |
Speedometer output is directly related to the OD (outer diameter) of your left front wheel + tire combo. If your current wheel + tire OD is significantly larger or smaller than the original "stock" wheel + tire OD size, then your indicated speed will be correspondingly off from your actual speed.
lambetti wrote: |
I found that my fuel gauge is off by a quarter tank (3/4 indicated is actually full). Since I just got the car, I believe it was likely inaccurate when I bought it).
Electrical connections are cleaned.
Any ideas? Gauge or sending unit? |
Quick check is to remove the wire attached to the tank sending unit and touch it (briefly) to a known good grounding point:
If gas gauge indicates full with that wire grounded, then the sender is likely your culprit. Poor grounding of the sending unit itself can sometimes be an issue. You can also try adjusting/bending the stop tabs and/or the float arm on the sending unit to adjust it for more accurate readings. However, many aftermarket sending units are of such poor quality that no amount of adjustment will fix them -- best to source a good used OG or NOS replacement unit, in that case.
If the gas gauge reads at 1/2, 3/4, or anything other than full with that wire grounded, then the gauge and/or the vibrator are suspect. Note that the currently available aftermarket gauges and vibrators are notorious for often being manufactured far outside of original calibration specs, leading to erroneous readings. Once again, sourcing good used OG or NOS replacement units is often your only realistic/simple option for a fix, IMO. _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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baldessariclan wrote: |
lambetti wrote: |
I had my speedo rebuilt by a business that advertises here on TheSamba. Speed registers close enough (35 indicated is actually 37 MPH). |
Speedometer output is directly related to the OD (outer diameter) of your left front wheel + tire combo. If your current wheel + tire OD is significantly larger or smaller than the original "stock" wheel + tire OD size, then your indicated speed will be correspondingly off from your actual speed.
lambetti wrote: |
I found that my fuel gauge is off by a quarter tank (3/4 indicated is actually full). Since I just got the car, I believe it was likely inaccurate when I bought it).
Electrical connections are cleaned.
Any ideas? Gauge or sending unit? |
Quick check is to remove the wire attached to the tank sending unit and touch it (briefly) to a known good grounding point:
If gas gauge indicates full with that wire grounded, then the sender is likely your culprit. Poor grounding of the sending unit itself can sometimes be an issue. You can also try adjusting/bending the stop tabs and/or the float arm on the sending unit to adjust it for more accurate readings. However, many aftermarket sending units are of such poor quality that no amount of adjustment will fix them -- best to source a good used OG or NOS replacement unit, in that case.
If the gas gauge reads at 1/2, 3/4, or anything other than full with that wire grounded, then the gauge and/or the vibrator are suspect. Note that the currently available aftermarket gauges and vibrators are notorious for often being manufactured far outside of original calibration specs, leading to erroneous readings. Once again, sourcing good used OG or NOS replacement units is often your only realistic/simple option for a fix, IMO. |
Excellent info, this is quite helpful.
Many thanks! |
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viiking Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2013 Posts: 2968 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 3:26 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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You can certainly make a quick visual inspection of the sender unit float arm and bend this to get a better reading.
The way the gauge works is by a simple rheostat in the fuel sender. There are wire windings around a rectangular "former".
The float arm attaches to this rod which pivots across the windings from one end to the other. The further along the rheostat the pivot moves the more windings that are "read". As the resistance of the wire is known i.e. ohms/metre then the more wire that is read, the higher the resistance and vice versa. The gauge reads this resistance as a fuel level. In reverse from memory. Higher the resistance the lower the fuel level.
Now if you note on the second photo you will see that the windings are not uniformly separated. That means that if the pivot moves across say 5mm at one end, it will have a much different change in resistance than say 5mm at the other end.
VW engineers (or VDO the OEM suppliers) were very clever. You may notice that when the fuel tank is first filled it takes a fair while to drop down. This is the part of the float where there are few windings per 5mm or inch or whatever. Then you will start to see the fuel level start to drop quite rapidly and towards the reserve quickly as the windings become closer together. This is not a sign of massively increasing fuel consumption but the fact that a small change in the level has a BIG impact on the level shown on the gauge.
Most people when faced with this rapid decline in fuel level indication will be more likely to refill as the tank becomes less full. In addition the relatively more rapid change in level is more apparent than one that changes linearly.
So what to do?
If you can fill the tank so much better. When the physical tank contents is Full to your liking, then where the float arm rod pivot touches the windings it should be as close to the end as it can be. Then bend the rod arm to achieve this.
Now the issue is how low can you go. In most cases the bending of the arm should not affect the real empty reading. But you can check by physically dipping the tank when the gauge reads empty. Yes this is a hassle and means you have to take the sender out a couple of times but it is the only way to accurately measure the accuracy of the sender.
For the person with some mechanical skills, overhauling or replacing the sender is not difficult. In fact I purchased a new VDO sender and transferred all of the internals over to the original numbers matching outer mounting plate of the Jan 1968 sender. Yes the parts were still the same as they were 50+ years ago.
There are a number of posts on the SAMBA on how to refurbish the sender unit including the critical winding of new wire around the rheostat former. For this you need to have the correct ohms/metre wire to replicate the original. Use the search function. _________________ 1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3 |
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hulbyw Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2021 Posts: 154 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:34 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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You can also get the sender windings re done at an instrument (speedo) repairer so no need to buy a sub standard repro |
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scrivyscriv Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011 Posts: 3198 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 9:16 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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My orange Bentley isn't handy so this is info from the older blue Bentley; the manual more or less tells you to adjust the fuel gauge so that it shows empty when the tank is empty, and let the 'full' indication fall wherever it ends up.
It might be a challenge getting accurate indication for both extremes _________________ Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help. |
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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 6:29 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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Some excellent replies here.
Grounding the fuel gauge wire moved the needle to “full”, telling me its the sending unit, so that is where Ill address.
I truly appreciate everyones help! |
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baldessariclan Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 1765 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 7:57 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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lambetti wrote: |
Grounding the fuel gauge wire moved the needle to “full”, telling me its the sending unit, so that is where Ill address. |
That’s good news! - the sending unit is generally a little more accessible and easier to deal with than the fuel gauge or voltage regulator (vibrator).
Check to see that you’ve got a good & clean grounding path first. Normally, at least one of the sealing washers (under the heads of the 5 screws holding the sender to tank) is made of copper, and that’s what grounds the sender body to the fuel tank (i.e. via the corresponding screw at that location). The fuel tank itself also needs to be adequately grounded to the car body, usually accomplished at the junction of the 4 clamping brackets holding the tank to body.
If you’ve got an original VDO sending unit, and the resistance wiring is in good shape, you can usually bend the stop tabs and/or float arm to get the results you want.
With the sender out of the tank, attach a grounding wire to the sender body, and then manually move the arm to different positions to see what the corresponding gas gauge reading is. You can carefully bend the stop tabs (if and as necessary) such that the gauge reads at or near full w/ float arm all the way up against one stop tab, and at or near empty w/ float arm all the way down against the other stop tab.
After that, would suggest you reinstall the sender, fill the tank completely full of gas, and then note what your fuel gauge reads. If not at completely full, take a picture of where the needle does sit, remove the sender again, and manually move the float arm so fuel gauge needle duplicates the position it was at w/ gas tank full. Measure float position at that point (e.g. perpendicular to a long straightedge or level resting on top of sender body) — that’s where the float will be sitting when your gas tank is full. You can now carefully bend the float arm such that it’s just touching the stop tab (full point for gas gauge) when the float is at the full tank position. Make sense?
After all that, reinstall the sender and test — see that gas gauge reads full w/ full tank. Then when needle reaches halfway point, refill tank and confirm about 5 gallons go in. Then similar later, allowing needle to reach the reserve line - confirm takes about 9 gallons or so to refill tank at that point.
Note once again that this all applies when using an original VDO sender unit, which are normally constructed and calibrated within factory specs. W/ aftermarket senders however, the above detailed procedures may or may not work — no way to tell for sure w/ those. Caveat emptor… _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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Well, I cleaned up ground points, and even added a ground wire (soldered lugs, grounded to chassis), no change.
I then pulled the sending unit (it does appear to be a factory VDO unit), and inspected it. Only obvious (possible) thing is the wire windings look dirty - perhaps from all those years of wear. Maybe this resulted in more resistance, resulting in lower readings.
I did bend the upper limit stop a little, but the wipe was pretty much at the top of the windings already. No change in readings.
So… I will either pull it, disassemble and clean, or replace it (a new VDO unit from Jbugs is only $50, but I love to tinker and fix things…). The biting cold got to me, so I slapped it back together for the time being.
Again, my sincere thanks. |
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Matt Wilson Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2005 Posts: 2413 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 6:58 pm Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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I've experienced noisy and erratic speedometers. Each time, it was the little plastic odometer gear that aged and cracked and was slipping on the shaft. If you are delicate, you can carefully take apart the speedometer and inspect the gear, and pop on a replacement if needed. Some sellers will also have the new 'gels' that give the arrows their green color, and the warning lights red and hi-beams blue.
I've done a few of these, and they all turned out great! _________________ 1972 Standard Beetle
1969 Baja Beetle |
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baldessariclan Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 1765 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2024 7:32 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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lambetti wrote: |
I then pulled the sending unit (it does appear to be a factory VDO unit), and inspected it. Only obvious (possible) thing is the wire windings look dirty - perhaps from all those years of wear. Maybe this resulted in more resistance, resulting in lower readings.
I did bend the upper limit stop a little, but the wipe was pretty much at the top of the windings already. No change in readings. |
If you’ve got a multimeter, you might want to check your sender’s resistance values, taken between the sender body and wire attach tab. IIRC, the ones I’ve tested usually read somewhere around 10 ohms w/ arm all the way up (tank full), and 75-80 ohms with the arm all the way down (tank empty).
If your sender reads around 10 ohms with arm at tank full position, and gas gauge doesn’t show “full” at that resistance, but does show “full” when grounded (no resistance), then I’d start getting a bit more suspicious about your gauge. If the OG gauge, then its calibration may be off for some reason (PO messed with it, perhaps?). Otherwise, may be an aftermarket gauge, and no knowing what or why it’s doing in that case. _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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lambetti Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2024 Posts: 11 Location: N. Central MA
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Posted: Fri Dec 13, 2024 9:19 am Post subject: Re: 68 speedometer woes |
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All, I want to let you know my experience with that the vendor (who advertises on TheSamba) who I hired to fix my Speedo.
I probably shouldn’t name him publicly, but if anyone wants to know who it is, message me.
The good:
The Speedo works well, front is clean, pointer was replaced (added $25).
The bad:
The back was a dirty as when I sent it. Slight corrosion on terminals wasn’t addressed, etc. Not a big deal, and perhaps not their responsibility.
The green turn signal gel wasn’t replaced. It has what appears to be a rip. I would have gladly paid to have it replaced, given the opportunity.
The ugly:
The vendor sent me the wrong Speedo. I contacted him, he immediately got back to me, was quite embarrassed. He asked me to send the wrong one back, and he would reimburse me the shipping. A couple days later, I let him know the shipping cost and the tracking number, and he said he located mine and it was on its way.
I received mine, and asked if he was still willing to reimburse me, and he said yes.
A week later, nothing, so I sent a friendly reminder. Crickets.
If it were me, I would have not only immediately made good, i would have offered a little compensation for the trouble too.
Note that I would refuse additional compensation, were it offered. And the shipping isn’t much money, but it ticks me off that I am being penalized (time and money) for an issue that is his responsibility.
Let me add that the vendor is going through some rough waters, so perhaps he isn’t able to respond. I do wish him the best, and hope that this is simply the result of an oversight. |
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