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vw_bud Samba Member
Joined: March 23, 2008 Posts: 271 Location: Bradford, PA
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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 9:23 am Post subject: Manual gear oil. |
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Just wanted to check and see if full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil is a good oil to use in my gearbox, it's mild temp here in Georgia so I just wanted to check before I do it because it's all we have at the shop currently |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 22443 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 10:59 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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vw_bud wrote: |
Just wanted to check and see if full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil is a good oil to use in my gearbox, it's mild temp here in Georgia so I just wanted to check before I do it because it's all we have at the shop currently |
Yes.....it's fine as long as its GL-4 type and not GL-5. Ray |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 51571
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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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vw_bud wrote: |
Just wanted to check and see if full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil is a good oil to use in my gearbox, it's mild temp here in Georgia so I just wanted to check before I do it because it's all we have at the shop currently |
The brand is important, some GL-5 are okay and others are not. If it says its okay for use a synchromesh transmission it is likely fine, but if it doesn't specifically say it's okay for use with synchronizers the it's probably best to find another oil.
To the best of my knowledge the only GL-4 oils to avoid are the two thinnest Redline GL-4 oils.
Last edited by Wildthings on Thu Jan 02, 2025 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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shaggysboss Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2019 Posts: 7 Location: ny
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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Yeah, full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil should work fine for your gearbox, especially with the mild temps in Georgia. It's a good all-around oil and should perform well in most conditions. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 22443 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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shaggysboss wrote: |
Yeah, full synthetic 75w-90 gear oil should work fine for your gearbox, especially with the mild temps in Georgia. It's a good all-around oil and should perform well in most conditions. |
Yes...totally agree.....but also heed what Wildthings stated. Not to get deep into it and get this thread locked....but there is years of chatter online about this subject.
There are oils out there where the mfg states "meets both GL-4 and GL-5 standards. Some of them are speaking strictly of performance standards and its not clear whether they care anything about chemical compatibility.
In a nutshell....almost all "full hypoid" final drive gear sets require GL-5 gear oils for the extreme pressure lubrication additives.
The bus does not have a hypoid final drive gear set. It is skew bevel but not hypoid.
But the thing most of these mfg's are not even stating is that most modern hypoid final drive transmissions...also have long since gone to steel on steel synchronizers instead of brass like we have.
This is why it all gets confusing. No one is lying to you...they are just not giving all of the information in one shot.
Whatever 75/90 synthetic you are using....just do a quick google search on it and ask if its "good for yellow metal syncronizers". You will quickly find discussions with answers of yes or no.
But in a pinch it will get you on the road. If you find out its not recommended....just change it out in a few weeks. Ray |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41282 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 12:28 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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the issue with many late fluids other than GL4 is that they are designed to work with different kinds of synchros. TheMotorOilGeek had a show discussing the importance of getting oils and transmission fluids right. Make sure it is GL4 because if it is too slippery like many GL5, then the transmission may never shift right again based on experiences some transmission builders here have had with clients making that mistake.
In one link below it reads re GL5, "Not for use in systems that contain yellow metal," meaning no brass syncho rings which is what out buses have.
Motor Oil Geek:
Quote: |
What is the right way to choose an oil? Well, it doesn't start with choosing a brand name. Instead, the application will dictate the chemistry needed. A 750 HP race engine needs a racing oil, not a passenger car oil or diesel oil. A non-synchronized transmission needs a different fluid than a synchronized transmission does, especially if it has brass synchronizers. A hypoid rear gear may or may not have a limited slip differential, which impacts the choice of chemistry needed (limited slip differentials need a limited slip gear oil). As you can see, each of these applications requires a different chemistry, and none of these decisions begin with a brand name.
In this video I'll show you how I choose the engine oil, transmission fluid and gear oil for my Dad's vintage NASCAR race car. He's 76 years old and the engine makes over 750 horsepower, so I have to get these choices right. After making these choices, we will go to the racetrack and see how the car runs. Plus, we will see how much difference a smaller carburetor makes in terms of average lap time!
Here's one of the best FREE resources on lubricants: https://petrocanadalubricants.com/en-ca/lube-source-handbook/automotive/automotive-gear-oils
For help choosing a viscosity grade, check out page 36 of the Driven catalog: https://drivenracingoil.com/rt-5996-c...
To get started with used oil analysis, check out: https://www.speediagnostix.com |
_________________ "Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin |
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vwmaniaman Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2005 Posts: 592 Location: Grand Rivers,KY
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 6:39 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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My 65 Bug and my wife's 87 Cabriolet had that typical cold snick when shifting from 1-2. My son recommended that I add some Lucas gear oil to it. I put in about a cup of it when near the end of filling. Drove it and the shift is smooth with no snick. I has stayed that way. It surprised me. _________________ Working on a VW is like fun with a friend!
65 Beetle
75 Westy "Pumpkin Van"
86 Westy "Brown Betty"
87 Cabrio |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 51571
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 9:05 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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vwmaniaman wrote: |
My 65 Bug and my wife's 87 Cabriolet had that typical cold snick when shifting from 1-2. My son recommended that I add some Lucas gear oil to it. I put in about a cup of it when near the end of filling. Drove it and the shift is smooth with no snick. I has stayed that way. It surprised me. |
Are you talking about a Lucas additive? or an actual gear oil? |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 22443 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 9:47 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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SGKent wrote: |
the issue with many late fluids other than GL4 is that they are designed to work with different kinds of synchros. TheMotorOilGeek had a show discussing the importance of getting oils and transmission fluids right. Make sure it is GL4 because if it is too slippery like many GL5, then the transmission may never shift right again based on experiences some transmission builders here have had with clients making that mistake.
In one link below it reads re GL5, "Not for use in systems that contain yellow metal," meaning no brass syncho rings which is what out buses have.
Motor Oil Geek:
Quote: |
What is the right way to choose an oil? Well, it doesn't start with choosing a brand name. Instead, the application will dictate the chemistry needed. A 750 HP race engine needs a racing oil, not a passenger car oil or diesel oil. A non-synchronized transmission needs a different fluid than a synchronized transmission does, especially if it has brass synchronizers. A hypoid rear gear may or may not have a limited slip differential, which impacts the choice of chemistry needed (limited slip differentials need a limited slip gear oil). As you can see, each of these applications requires a different chemistry, and none of these decisions begin with a brand name.
In this video I'll show you how I choose the engine oil, transmission fluid and gear oil for my Dad's vintage NASCAR race car. He's 76 years old and the engine makes over 750 horsepower, so I have to get these choices right. After making these choices, we will go to the racetrack and see how the car runs. Plus, we will see how much difference a smaller carburetor makes in terms of average lap time!
Here's one of the best FREE resources on lubricants: https://petrocanadalubricants.com/en-ca/lube-source-handbook/automotive/automotive-gear-oils
For help choosing a viscosity grade, check out page 36 of the Driven catalog: https://drivenracingoil.com/rt-5996-c...
To get started with used oil analysis, check out: https://www.speediagnostix.com |
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Yes! Love that guy!
But just to add a small amount more to what you just stated.
1. Yes, GL-5 is too slippery for our brass synchros
2. Yes, long term, there is too much sulfur for our brass synchros which will break down with age causing corrosion.
I used to believe that the LONG TERM chemical issue with brass synchro was the only problem. And.....I believed that if you just kept the GL-5 in for short intervals it would not damage the synchroa if you did not leave it in long enough to gain moisture and start the breakdown and production of dilute sulfuric acid.
Yes, within that frame of mind....you can get away with SOME GL-5 synchromesh formulations....with some "yellow metal" synchro designs. Not all of them are brass, not all brass or bronze is the same exact alloy and the way they are cut, angled and tooth geometry can allow using SOME Gl-5s with no issues. Been there. The synchros on the type 4....004 transaxle are a little different.
3. BUT.....I used to believe that the ONLY issues with GL-5 were those two....being excessively slick and having a medium to long term chemistry issue.
I do not believe that anymore. Due to well stated information from people I trust....here and in other forums, along with some great threads presenting solid information in other forums.......and......capped off with definitive information from Lake Speed Junior/the oil geek.......the CHEMISTRY issue is not JUST the long term one I already stated.
It is also a very short term issue that can destroy some yellow metal synchros in short order. I would have to dig up the articles and posts....but suffice it to say....do not risk GL-5 or a combined GL-4/GL-5.....unless the mfg SPECIFICALLY states it it is safe for yellow metal synchros and GL-4 applications.
Ray |
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Opossum Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2005 Posts: 746 Location: Islets of Langerhans
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 12:03 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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What do you think of Driven STF Synchromesh fluid?
https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497857-stf-synthetic-synchromesh-transmission-fluid.html _________________ "You can lead an aircooled to water, but you can't make it drink"
"Live and learn or crash and burn"
"It's only Cool, If it's Air-Cooled"
Virginia Whiteface (Opossum) the first VW
Camper Special Club Member
1973 Orange Westfalia Hard top, Original owner |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 22443 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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While Driven probably (from everything I have read) makes a really good synthetic synchromesh oil we could use, I do not think......that particular gear oil is what you want for our types of transmission. Note that it states that it's really for manual transmission that are using ATF, multi-viscosity or straight weight MOTOR OIL as a transmission fluid. That's really common on NASCAR type vehicles with straight cut gears.
It's far too thin for our gears. That being said, a great amount of the modern car syncromeah oils are like REALLY thin.....like 10w oil. The synchromesh oil in my Golf is like 10w oil in consistency......and MUST be changed about every 35k miles.
I have been meaning to look into what Driven does have for us because their stuff is really good and well researched. Ray |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 51571
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2024 7:30 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Anything made strictly for racing may not do all that well where it sits in a gear box for years on end slowly collecting water and breaking down/oxidizing. |
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telford dorr Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2009 Posts: 3611 Location: San Diego (Encinitas)
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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When I had my bus trans rebuilt by Transworks, I explained that it was doomed to live its life on the freeway turning 4K. They recommended running full synthetic 75W-140 oil in it, which has so far worked great. FWIW. _________________ '71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
In theory, theory works in practice; in practice, it doesn't - William T. Harbaugh
When you're dead, you don't know you're dead. The pain is only felt by others.
Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST) |
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cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20639 Location: Sandpoint, ID
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 11:15 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Wildthings wrote: |
vwmaniaman wrote: |
My 65 Bug and my wife's 87 Cabriolet had that typical cold snick when shifting from 1-2. My son recommended that I add some Lucas gear oil to it. I put in about a cup of it when near the end of filling. Drove it and the shift is smooth with no snick. I has stayed that way. It surprised me. |
Are you talking about a Lucas additive? or an actual gear oil? |
I'm curious about this, too. _________________ nothing |
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metahacker Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2010 Posts: 767 Location: san.diego
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 12:46 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Swepco 201 or 203, depending on how you feel about moly (201 should shift better, 203 box might last longer with big loads)
if you plan to drive when it's quite cold, Swepco + Lubegard gear fluid supplement
Synthetic is not recommended
do not use Redline (in your gear box, their engine oil is very nice)
If you're obsessed with using synthetic, Motul 300V
If you're limping an old crappy gearbox along, GM p/n 88900399
Opinions vary greatly on this topic
Check the Vanagon forums for some very extensive discussion
EDIT: clarified re: moly
Last edited by metahacker on Thu Dec 05, 2024 6:13 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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vwmaniaman Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2005 Posts: 592 Location: Grand Rivers,KY
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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The Lucas that I used was gear oil and I can't recall if it was the 75-90 or the one to 140, but I imagine it was the 75-90. It listed safe for yellow metals on the jug. Beats me why it works so well but I am sure I only put in like a cup of it. _________________ Working on a VW is like fun with a friend!
65 Beetle
75 Westy "Pumpkin Van"
86 Westy "Brown Betty"
87 Cabrio |
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cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20639 Location: Sandpoint, ID
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 7:52 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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vwmaniaman wrote: |
The Lucas that I used was gear oil and I can't recall if it was the 75-90 or the one to 140, but I imagine it was the 75-90. It listed safe for yellow metals on the jug. Beats me why it works so well but I am sure I only put in like a cup of it. |
Good to know. I was wondering about Lucas gear oil anyway. _________________ nothing |
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W1K1 Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 5175 Location: Southern AB
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 22443 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:28 pm Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Understanding I AM in the bus forum......the Haynes manual always suggested that the gear oil to use in the 411/412with manual transmission was Castrol Hypoy-C.
Now...Hypoy-C is GL-5. The problem is....and you see this in a lot of other forums where the yellow metal issue and GL-4 and GL-5 are being discussed.....you need to remember exactly what kind of car these other people are discussing.
The common comment is that GL-4 is for the "transmission"....meaning the gear sets with synchros....and GL-5 is for the final drive (and most specifically "hypoid" final drive).
Hint....you are dealing with people whose vehicles generally have a separate final drive.
We do not have that luxury. The final drive in a bus is in the same case and oil pool as the transmission section with its yellow metal synchros. It also does not have a "hypoid" final drive. There is nothing in the 002 or 091 that "requires" the slickness of GL-5.
To make matters worse on my 411's and 412's.....our transmissions DO have a hypoid final drive....which is why they suggested that a GL-5 should be used.
The difference in oils that state they "can" work in GL-4 and GL-5...is that yes, they have the friction mofifiers of GL-5 and SOME sulfur....but they also have LESS sulfur....maybe just enough...and they also have one of several buffer agents to prevent damage to the yellow metals by the sulfur.
The problem is how well is this documented?
Some of the better comments in forums actually suggest that if you have this same issue....yellow metal synchros AND a hypoid final drive in the same case....use what is suggested for SOME older Subaru because they have this set up as well. Not sure how true this is yet.
Ray |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 13168 Location: San Diego, CA
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Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 10:08 am Post subject: Re: Manual gear oil. |
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Every VW bus manual clearly states hypoid oil is to be used in bus transaxles. The owners manual even puts hypoid in bold.
Robbie _________________ One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:
https://www.patreon.com/airschooled
www.airschooled.com |
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