Jeremiah's 73 412 restoration project

[Jeremiah Berger]

Getting these heads out and planning what I need to do still.before assembly and had a couple questions.
For clarification I got the deluxe kit from the type 4 store and will be using swivel feet and HD rocker shaft kit.

1. Do you know how much material I need to take off of the rockers to accept the swivel feet?

2. Can I just take them down flat or do I need to make them dished like I have seen, or a combination of both?

3.Should I use locktite on the new HD rocker studs into the heads?

[Pepperbilly]

Others will chime in on this subject. I can only tell you about my experience with these elephant feet swivel adjusters on my Type 1 engine in my '67 Westy.

I recently installed these a couple of months ago and these I purchased from Gene Berg Ent. So far I like them. The engine runs beautifully with lots of power and is quieter. Berg did mention that with my completely stock engine, [down to the original HO case], there needed to be no modifications other than adding shims included in their kit under the rocker stands. I actually had to add more shims than they included in their kit. I dialed everything in with .106" shim thickness at the stands. It got kind of close at the length of the rocker studs but it was just enough. The rocker to valve stem geometry worked out just fine with this thickness so I went with it. I did not have to change my pushrods or make any cuts to my rocker arms. Left that all stock. Need to put more miles on this modification and I will report back after more time.

Wish I could help you out on the type 4 engine but I left that stock on my 412. Not going to change a thing on mine... it runs too good. I'm sure Ray and others will give you some great advice. I like the way your project is going.

Bill

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

[Jeremiah Berger]

For some reason I'm having a hard time posting this, I had to go have dinner and come back and try again

I decided to take a little meat off the top and then dish the rockers with a 1/2" carbide burr.worked good and plenty of clearance

I also finished up this Type 4 syndrome modification that takes Rays original idea and uses some different hardware to make it not need to be welded.Not that I can't weld but because I had the idea and had to try it ..

It uses a 1/4" fpt X 1/4" mpt elbow and 10mx1.00 bolts and nuts which have the same or very close thread pitch as the 1/4" pipe thread.

Bolts have been cut and ground down to length and square 6mm end

Oil screen fits perfectly in between the nuts.

[raygreenwood]

Very nice work!

Ray

[Jeremiah Berger]

I have spent the last couple days dealing with main bearing clearances and geez what a nightmare.between the two sets of siverlines and the three sets of mahles they are all over the place and the silver line worse then the mahle. My best set is with the mahles which I'm not excited about because they are not steel backed and the quality seams low.
Even still the best set I can come up with is .003 clearance on 1&3 wich are also the closest to perfecty round which is under .0005". This was all over the place with other ones that had less, or more? crush
The best I can get on the split bearing is .0045 with some out of round as well at about 0005 but way better and close to round then all the other combinations... Are these measurements crazy off? Should I be happy with this?

Are aluminum split bearings crap? They certainly seam low quality and scratch easy .

Just seems crazy that the amount of money other parts cost and all these builders do what exactly about bearings?

Everyone says to buy a whole bunch of sets and mix and match but how are we gonna do that when everyone sends you already opened gone through sets? And the mahles are better but no steel back.
Seams like lots of people dealing with this but no one has any solution.
It was a lot easier being an engine assembler.

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

I am using a dial bore gauge that I am zeroing to my micrometer.I have a matityu micrometer and a Chinese ISP dial bore gauge.The quage is not super high quality but it seems ok, if anything it has a spring that is too strong.I was curious if a spring strong enough to leave scratches the way it can if your not careful(especially on the aluminum split bearing that is much softer)id maybe that could cause a loss in your measurements?

I am learning to use these tools so I have no doubt there could be something I am looking over or doing wrong. I am just now getting to the point that I am getting consistent measurements that I am confident with. I have watched a few videos showing how to rock the gauge back and forth and find the high spot. I feel like I am getting the hang of it.

One thing is that no matter what combination what brand wether I am measuring on the higher side or not, is that my split bearing is always bigger then the rest. It seems like that may be normal according to others but the book says that bearing should have the least clearance of them all?

I have the option to take it to the machine shop. He offered to help me measure it all upfor me if I got it torqued up and brought it and the crank in. So my plan was to get the best set I can come up with and have him double check it.. unfortunately he's over an hour away.


.

[heimlich]

An hour away is a normal drive around Houston. Up by ya'll it's the next state or two states over.
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[Jeremiah Berger]

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]