Factors determining top end only rebuild

[2type2]

Spent last 8 months working to redo my 65, today was the first day out for a first drive BUT....
Seems to run sufficiently well considering 009 distributor, stock 1600. Went to fill gas and when got back decided to recheck dwell, timing, rpms. Now that she's good and warm, pull up the dipstick while engine running at 2000 rpm and oil is running out of dipstick.. Not doing it if oil fill open but can feel all the blowby. So here's the situation----
Haven't run compression or any tests, but I'm thinking that maybe just a top end rebuild will suffice, since this car is only for about town fooling around, don't intend to exceed 65/70, and won't put near 1000 miles a year on it. I'm old,retired, got 2 other ac vw that are running well.
Why Shouldn't I do this if my intent is minimal milage, or what? It's not economics , its the time and energy and time investment factors. If I need more I'll just do a longblock, but not really wanting to. Pulling and replacing engine are my most dreaded efforts. Wrenching on it is just totally a time concern. I'm not in any kind of hurry, need to something other than bang wrenches every day this summer. Opine, let me hear the variables. Thanks.
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[Max Welton]

If crankshaft end-play is out of spec or oil pressure is a problem it's probably time to split the case.

Max
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1967 Type-3 Fastback
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[Bobs67vwagen]

I am old and retired also, so here's my ist thought. The oil fill has that tube that runs down alongside the fill and under the tin. Have you checked to make sure this tube is clear. If it's blocked it may be causing your problem. Good luck-Bob

[EVfun]

Any idea how many miles are on the engine? That is one consideration.

What is the crankshaft end play? If it’s excessive you need some lower end work.

Another consideration is your application. Sounds like it is near stock and you don’t plan to flog it hard, so that part is good.

We did top end jobs plenty often when I was young. Often it was a big bore kit and a valve job in an old 40 horse, and most of them survived.

Oh, that reminds me, also check the valve lift before tearing it down. It’s pretty easy to turn an engine over with a wrench and make sure both intake and both exhaust lobes have the same lift. No point doing a top end if the cam is going flat.
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[Brian_e]

I usually figure if it doesn’t have case savers, then don’t attempt a top end only. Most of the time the last 2 studs will pull out of the case without case savers.

If it does have savers, decent oil pressure, and minimal end play, it might be a decent candidate.

Brian
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[oprn]

If it's an older well used engine and been sitting for a while the rings might be stuck in carbon deposits. Especially true with a car that only does short around town trips, never sees the highway and runs cold with the choke on most of the time. (This is why the heat risers get plugged off guys!)

If it were my car I would pull all 4 plugs, give the cylinders all a shot of ATF, WD40, diesel fuel, seafoam, whatever your favorite secret juice is...give it a half a dozen cranks with the coil wire off and let it sit for a few days.

When you do start it up it will smoke like the Devil for a bit but get it out on the highway right away and run it like you stole it for an hour. It might just break those stuck rings loose... or it might not... but all you have lost is a bit of time.
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Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old!

[Wreck]

due to the crank shaft design you have two pistons either moving towards each other or away . This causes big pulses at the breather . Put a rubber glove over the open oil filler and run it , if at idle the glove blows up you have an issue . also check the breather tube is not blocked.


If the end float is OK and the glove blows up do what Oprn suggested . It may just need the ring to free up and maybe clean up a little rust on the cylinders.

[mikedjames]

If your breather goes through one of those EMPI oil fillers with the 1/4" inside diameter breather connections, try and find a stock oil filler with a nearer 3/4" diameter breather instead.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[oprn]

[Dusty1]

I've done top end only / re- seal on dozens of motors over the years, perhaps more.

I used to be fairly confident a motor build on an AH, an AJ or an AK case was recent enough the bottom end wouldn't be too bad. Besides... those come with factory case savers. I could be reasonable confident I could get it apart and back together again without numerous trips to the machine shop.

It sure would be nice if it didn't need case savers a line bore and now some of them need lifter bores re- bushed. That's a slide down a slippery slope. Unless you live in Ontario, California there's a 50% chance your "local" VW rebuilder will shove a worn out Porta Tool through your case and make matters worse. OR they'll charge for a line bore, case savers and miss some other fatal flaw.

If you're going to do a top end do a top end. Just be aware you might need more than a top end.

It's always good to have a back- up motor or at least a good core in case your plan goes wrong.

.
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[halfassleatherworks]

If you do pull the top end you can then pull the rods one at a time, and check the bearings you can replace them or put them back in depending on there conduction. it will give you a good idea about the mains, and check the endplay, and tighten it up if need be.

[2type2]

Thanks for the suggestions, I don't have high hopes. I'll try the wd40 to see if rings stuck. AFAIK, this engine was driven by PO on short trips, "only went 60 mph", and I think it sat stored for 7 years before he got it. He had it maybe 5 yrs but from what i know just did brakes, shocks. Had a rubber fuel line outside tunnel from front wall to battery area and out to back, tied to a wire running from battery to stater button at dash (a bomb), heat tubes were clogged, I fixed that. Unknown miles but extremely clean under covers. Endplay- not sure.
I will do all these tests and checks asap but right now, honestly, my motivation hit a low spot. Just not wanting to spend so much garage time. I've got time but a bit burned out on it after this disappointment. Looks good, everything new and clean but no drivability!
I'll do all that but it may require a boost to get to pulling engine and getting really into things.If it comes down to full rebuild, I'm not wanting to right now,maybe while it's snowing. The more likely scenario is buying a longblock for expediency ad lack of effort. I'll report in a few when cylinders lubed and run.
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[halfassleatherworks]

another thing is pull the heads and cylinders and just free up the rings and reassemble no cost just your time. backyard special I did it in high school way back in the 70's.

[Bobs67vwagen]

Your initial post describes oil flowing out the dipstick tube when you pull it out but this stops when you pull the oil fill cap off. This suggests to me that you have a crankcase breathing problem and excess pressure is being built up in the crankcase because of that. This is where I would begin before tearing anything apart. Good luck-Bob

[2type2]

Eureka! Saved and relieved I think.
Now-- as I was warned of and previously noted, this has a cast aluminum angled filler on an aftermarket alternator stand -- not the og breather. Yes the plumbed fitting for breather outlet is only 1/4" hole, at the outlet i.d.. I had rigged a breather hose from it to the ( unfortunately) 6" paper filter. Can't fit an og oil type filter on it.
Taking simplest approach, I sealed a rubber glove over the filler and started her up. There was pressure which filled the glove. Removing the tube relieved all pressure. The find--- the outet tube on fill pipe was plugged with a piece of rubber (vacuum?) line inside and there was no way to vent! Now I will be rigging a larger inlet/ outlet 3/4" to the filter for max ventilation.
Thanks all, much time saved! Whew
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"A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness"

[Bobs67vwagen]

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Good luck-Bob