Help with '70 bug rear defroster re-wiring

[timdhawk]

Any tips or tricks for running new wire thru the body up to the factory rear window defroster holes?

[OldSchoolVW's]

After 50+ years, most/all of these are cooked and no longer work. You might want to test it to see if it still works before putting any time and effort into rewiring.
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Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller

"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing." Wernher von Braun

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[KTPhil]

X2!

Even if it looks fine, test it!

The orange/brown lines you see are NOT the conductive heating element. It is a primer that lets the actual conductive material stick to the glass. In time, the conductive material evaporates away and no longer heats. The primer remains.
_________________
Current Fleet:
- '71 Fastback
- '69 Westfalia
Retired:
- '67 Beetle
- '65 Beetle (x2)
- '65 Bus
- '71 Squareback

[Cusser]

My experience with the rear window defroster on my 1970 (mine since 1972):

Even when it works, it doesn't work !!!
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[timdhawk]

[jinx758]

A STIFF piece of wire or partial "fish tape" might be the ticket.
I have a metal one on a reel & a fiberglass screw together that I use for tons of wires, mostly buildings tho.

Perhaps check the continuity of the grid inside your back window in many spots. Over decades gaps may be present & render it non functional. Could fake the wires just for looks.

Back in '93-ish I got SUPER frustrated trying to get the 5% window tint to not bubble on the rear of my '74. I removed it but still had to do it in 2 parts. Put the bottom on, let it dry, & then the top piece. There was a teeny-tiny line across the middle but wasn't visible past 10feet. Good enuff as the popouts were easy.

Good luck ... stay safe

jinx

Only pick I have of it ...

_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[my3bugs]

no real help from me but sharing how mine is ......there is what looks to be an original grey plastic looking toggle switch under the dash on my 70 bug , when i turn it on a blue light comes on in the speedo near the rear window defrost thing indicating its on , but i cant confirm it works ..... here in the california desert , i have yet to see my rear window fog up

[OldSchoolVW's]

[tzepesh]

Tie together the new wire to the old wire, then pull the old wire. There is foam inside the C pillar , you will not be able to pull it through otherwise. If you are restoring the Bug, you should also remove the death foam. If you do, it is easier to insert a solid wire and then pull the wire you want to use.
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'74 1303S, L98B Viperngrun (extra glitter), German Look
'64 1200, Sea Blue, under restoration