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Official lazy person's stupid question thread
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2025 8:56 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
There is a reason the bypass test harness has 3 wires to be plugged in to different places at the same time.

Mark


Thanks, yes, I will build the other parts next.

-bobby
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E1
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2025 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
E1 wrote:

Fascinated by any other “test harness” concepts, but have no idea what that setup is and many others probably don’t, either.



Mark's bypass testing tool: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=349429

THANKS to the both of Ya!
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2025 5:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Okay, tonight I finished building Marks diagnostics harness. Results are conclusive to someone other than me. Hopeful that moving this discussion to Marks topic will help me (and anyone following my stupid lazy saga) get something out of the next few steps.

Many thanks to all, and especially to Mark for the dedication and insight to this topic.

-bobby

Update: It was a flaky coil. Replaced.
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bobbyblack Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 11:48 am    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Next up;

I recently replaced my reversing bulbs. I was already not confidant the the operational status of the circuit, but now that it is dark out when I get home, and I back into my garage, I am finding that indeed, they sometimes come on while in reverse, and sometimes not. This is on my '87 with a manual trans that I have replaced the switch on in the past. The gear box does engage and I do back up every time, but the lights do not always come on.

Is this a shift lever adjustment issue, by chance? I did have to repair my shift lever and replace ears a while ago, and it took me a while to get the thing bolted back down in what I thought to be the right place, so I might have just missed by a tiny fraction of an inch (sorry, I use Imperial measurements when I speak...)

One symptom I've experienced has been that I see that the lights are working, but halfway to where I want to get, they go out. So I pull it out of gear, and back in to reverse, and they come back on, usually staying on.

-bobby
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 12:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Pretty easy to pull the plug out of the trans jump the wires to see if they always come on. Then you will know if it's a wiring or trans issue.
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RicMcK Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

have you checked all the grounds and bulb sockets, and connections, then cleaned and DeOxit everything?

I'm asking because I was chasing this same like issue for a while and found it was both a dirty ground and dirty connectors (both wires and bulbs).
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dhaavers
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Bobby, a fairly common issue involves the washer or “shim” installed with the reverse switch in the trans.

I recall that ^^^ being an issue when I swapped in a new trans rebuild back in 2017…I replaced the switch with new at the same time & found it to be intermittent. A different thickness washer under the new switch fixed it for me.

Sorry, I can’t find record of the spec I found somewhere here, but the fix basically involved a trip to the hardware store for a variety of washers of different thickness.

One worked.

Wink

- Dave
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do.dah
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

When I had rear light issues, several of the bulb sockets did not snugly hold the bulb. A little tweaking and bending of the tabs, a smear of anti-oxident grease,, and problem was no more.
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DanHoug
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

bobbyblack wrote:
Next up;

I recently replaced my reversing bulbs.
-bobby


did you use LEDs? if so, go back to incandescent and see if the issue still exists. LEDs are notoriously unreliable, moisture sensitive, voltage sensitive, polarity sensitive. they're the Alan Alda of lamps.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions gang! I'll get on those!

Interesting that nobody thinks it was me slightly misaligning the shifter.

-bobby
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2025 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

DanHoug wrote:
…they're the Alan Alda of lamps.

<spits beer out nose>

Thanks for that, Dan…

Laughing

- Dave
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Camper_Velourium
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2025 1:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Latch on the old fridge is busted. Any replacement available or fixes?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 8:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Should I replace my oxygen sensor?

My O2 sensor seems to be fine, (produces 5.5vdc at idle). My multi meter seems to be averaging. I don't know how old it is, and I have a spair. Should I R&R it to be safe? As I hear they can be a PITA to remove. To remove it I'm planning on soaking and heating it up (the pipe not the sensor) a bunch of times.

Is it OK to use a 12pt box end wrench, or do I need a "real"6 pt O2 sensor socket?

Thanks
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E1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 9:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

If it works, don’t fix it.

Swapping parts by no means guarantees improvement. It’ll run terribly, run rich especially on the bottom, and gain rpm all by itself if the O2 is bad. It will be noticed.

Difficult to answer the wrench question, depends on what you have compared to others and we don’t know what you have.

I can’t get a hand wrench on mine for a heatshield being in the way so use the slotted deep socket. Whatever it takes to get it off will get it off.

Use the proper anti-seize designed for very high heat on any reattachment.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 10:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

E1. Thanks exactly what I wanted to hear Smile. I will leave it be, for now.
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erikgundy98
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Might be a stupid question, but to clean the valvebody in a transmission, what do you clean if with?

I’ve read to use brake cleaner. I’ve read to not use brake cleaner. Not to use rags (lint), then to use compressed air to dry.

Sorry to ask stupid question, but first time in the tranny, and going slow.

I haven’t gotten into the valves yet, just observing the cavities where the balls are, and want to clean it before starting on the valves


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

erikgundy98 wrote:
Might be a stupid question, but to clean the valvebody in a transmission, what do you clean if with?

I’ve read to use brake cleaner. I’ve read to not use brake cleaner. Not to use rags (lint), then to use compressed air to dry.

Sorry to ask stupid question, but first time in the tranny, and going slow.

I haven’t gotten into the valves yet, just observing the cavities where the balls are, and want to clean it before starting on the valves


I've rebuilt two VW 010 automatic transmissions. Both of them were a success.

I did the work at my uncle's garage. While I was working on the first one, a guy dropped by to see my uncle about a VW part. He walked back where I had parts laying on the work bench. He said he was retired from the Ford Transmission Division in Norwood, OH. He said, "we used WD-40 when assembling transmissions." So, that was what I did.

As for cleaning, I used Mineral Spirits mixed with Kerosene. I used several different brushes to knock loose the brown/black stuff. Once I finished up with the cleaning, I rinsed the parts with clean clear Kerosene.........

Now here's where everyone will go crazy. The next thing I did was use Dawn Liquid, water and a brush. Then, I rinsed and rinsed with water followed with lots of compressed air.

As I said, those rebuilds were a success.
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do.dah
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 9:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

All good,, but I'm really partial to 'Joy'. Joy cleans and degreases way better than Dawn...
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 9:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

Kerosene then Simple Green for me.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 10:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Official lazy person's stupid question thread Reply with quote

fxr wrote:
Kerosene then Simple Green for me.



Simple Green, Awesome, and anything similar will etch aluminum if left on very long. You should follow with Dawn, Joy or something similar to breakdown the Simple Green.

Simple Green definitely breaks-up oil and settled baked on crud.

Also, I thoroughly pressure wash the outside of the transmission and blow dry with compressed air before opening it up.
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