Blown head gasket or something else?

[E1]

[?Waldo?]

[my_vw_sucks]

I've been crazy busy with work, but finally got around to replacing my expansion tank cap. After driving a bit the coolant that had been forced to the resivoir migrated back into the system totally emptying it. With the van warm and the front parked on ramps on a slight uphill grade, I carefully cracked the bleeder valve on the radiator. Only air escaped. I topped up the radiator using a thin hose and funnel into the bleeder vavle opening. Once full I closed it up, topped up the resivoir, and took a quick test drive. When I got back to my house I checked the resivoir level and it had stayed steady. I cracked the radiator bleeder valve again and coolant flowed out.

I've been driving it for the last week and everything looks all good. The only thing I've noticed is that the radiator fan comes on for a very short period on start up. I don't recall if it always did this or not.

Anyways thanks for the help! On to the next project; rebuilding the motor in my 74 2002tii. This time the head gasket actually is bad (and no there's isn't any oil in the coolant...).

[Franklinstower]

'74tii with '72 bumpers? Or gray market?
Chamonix White?

Love it!
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'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug
YITB

[my_vw_sucks]

[my_vw_sucks]

The cap unfortunately wasn't the fix in my case. Around town everything was fine, but on freeway trips the reservoir still overflows. I tested the coolant and there are combustion gasses present. Looks like it's cylinder o-rings.

At this point I'm trying to decide if it makes sense to pull the motor or try and do the job with the engine in place. I'm thinking pulling the motor is the way to go. I can chase down the random oil leaks while it's out.

I'm a bit disappointed with the Gowesty 2.3L rebuild installed by the PO. It only has about 55K on the clock. As I noted it leaks a bit of oil, but more concerning it burns a ton of it. A trip from the Bay Area to Tahoe and back (400-500 miles) is a minimum of a quart of oil. Now the cylinder o-rings are toast! Does it make sense to look into an engine swap? I know this is thousands vs hundreds $, but it would be nice to have something with a bit more power.

[?Waldo?]

The WBX engine has a reputation for quickly burning off any oil added above the midpoint of the range on the dipstick.

Assuming you are only filling to midway between the marks, then your oil consumption is very excessive. 1qt per 1,000 miles is what I consider max oil consumption for a reasonably healthy engine and you say you are double that consumption.

Engine swap vs. rebuild is not thousands vs. hundreds, it's ten+ thousand vs. a few thousand.

Considering your username, I wonder why you are considering either vs. selling and no longer having a vehicle that sucks.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[E1]

Sorry to read all this. Dang.

Before giving up on this engine you might try running an oil level just above the bottom of the stick. I have repeatedly observed that Wasserboxer engines use a lot more oil the closer the level gets towards the top notch, not to mention it at least appears that high levels clog the crankcase vent aka oil breather.

The latter can be easily shown by finding the small vent on the breather — either a tiny hole under the top lip if original, or a nearly-imperceptible slot atop the breather if an aftermarket breather.

In either style, you’ll see a collection of oiled dirt where it vents and notice it may not be venting at all. I use an excess amount of Brakekleen to spray off the excess, and do not rub a rag on it for fear of forcing the oil and dust composite in there.

On factory vents, once sprayed, a little prod with a paper clip may help clear the hole. The best way to know it’s clean is removing the tower, soak it with a mild solvent like mineral spirits awhile (I once ruined one with a five-minute soak of carb cleaner, don’t be me!), and cupping your hand to seal the base while blowing into the large exit port of the tower. If original you’ll hear a slight hiss, if aftermarket it sounds more like a wheeze. If clogged, you’ll immediately know it is.

It helps or is at least wise to have a new o-ring available when re-installing the breather. While it probably won’t leak when re-using the old seal, now’s a good time to replace it anyway. The old one turns to almost a hard “plastic” over time and they can and do leak and make a mess of everything nearby.

Or do you see a physical leak, such as above the exhaust where the engine and trans bolt together, or anywhere else? A clogged vent can over-pressurize the engine a bit — particularly when vacuum is at max down a long, off-throttle grade — and oil can or will pass through the point of least resistance (like the mainseal).

I had an oil leak for a couple years, and had the mainseal swapped a year ago July when the trans was out for an unrelated issue. 500 or so miles later, the leak returned.

Last summer, I drilled and installed a threaded nipple at the base of the tower, to a two-foot by 1/2” clear hose with a cheap, clear fuel filter on the end, thinking I might see misted oil in either — which I didn’t.

Regardless, it seems to help with venting excess pressure and my second leak slowed significantly — but didn’t fully stop until adding a quart of Lucas oil stop leak (which made no difference on the initial, larger leak). I’ve not seen any oil loss whatsoever in well over 1,000 miles since — and while I’d like to think my “genius” vent was the ticket, it’s possibly just the Lucas or — far less likely — the mainseal expanded just enough in about 8,000 miles (estimate, odo is out) to self-seal.

Not saying your issue is related to the crankcase vent/breather, but there’s a reference point. The most-obvious sign of a clogged breather is if off-throttle down a long grade — ESPECIALLY if oil level is high — then once back on throttle it’ll want to stall and you’ll likely see a UGE cloud of blue oil smoke in the mirror that sure causes mass concern… though it’s really just a sign that vacuum is sucking in excess oil into the intake from a non-venting breather.

Not a good condition to ignore though, as that can foul your air-fuel meter if ignored.

One factor I DO NOT KNOW is if these engines were intentionally designed to use excess oil in normal operation, and therefore running less oil is denying that — and maybe, possibly increasing upper-engine wear slightly.

But overall I kinda doubt that, thinking it would have been documented before now if only to reduce initial engine warranty claims. So I err in favor of proper crankcase pressure relief instead.


PS — I was asked to post my vent mod a couple months ago, but won’t here for two reasons… though I explained this in a PM I got no reply, and have tired of one-way streets:

1). At least two well-known vendors are *utterly notorious* for profiting from others’ ideas without permission, or even courteous acknowledgment… as well-documented to me by a former employee (plus a second product concept theft victim) of one, and repeated user statements given to me about the other.

I’ve already been vocal enough (for now) about both vendors here. We owners are in this together, and not just to hand money over to unscrupulous folks.

2). Until I test the theory more, I’d never want to risk anyone’s engine if I’ve missed any hazards — and hope that’s a viewed as a sign of respect over any disinterest to help.
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If ever twice as rich, we’re gettin’ a double-wide
’84 “Westfailure”/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s

AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans
The caveman’s first question to the headhunter: “Hey, you got any coffee?”

[my_vw_sucks]

[E1]

Per your username, note our van’s nickname in sig — given me by a damned Brit friend who must have never heard of Lucas electronics.

By the way, this same friend’s a lifetime race engineer and confirmed something I’ll try if the gas tests positive like you — and maybe you might before throwing in the rag as well — re-torquing the head.

We’re in similar spots… and may need head gaskets, to be finally determined this week with our gas tester. We would have to hire out a gasket swap to avoid our own install elsewhere but a campsite. Not feelin’ it.

I’ve concluded a pair of gaskets could be three Grand, plus motel time, and that *only* if things go perfectly right, *and* the bottom end is proven sound.

At that point we’re ordering a fresh rebuilt engine, so I have mostly avoided reality on this topic.

Our case could still damned-well be air coming in when cooling, possibly getting stuck in the front heater core while both temp and fan await repair, coming in from the factory plastic coolant tank, or elsewhere.

To be determined…

Best no matter what you do.
_________________
If ever twice as rich, we’re gettin’ a double-wide
’84 “Westfailure”/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s

AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans
The caveman’s first question to the headhunter: “Hey, you got any coffee?”

[zerotofifty]

My engine loves to have the oil just barely above the low mark, it will stay there for along time, fill it much higher and it consumes the excess. Of course staying at the low mark is a bit nerve wracking. Thus I do check the level fairly frequently, which necessitates a level van to assure accuracy.

I do run a oil pressure gage in drivers line of sight, so that I will detect the engine sucking air in a timely manner if the level were to get too low So far that has not happened. But I like the reassurance that gage gives.

So run her near a bit above the low mark, check level frequently, just in case, as at the low mark you have little margin for a leak.
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Sorry About That Chief.

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