Bigger Problems

[Schepp]

So after sorting out the distributor issue and getting the engine running again. I loaded the car back up and headed out Sunday morning to the track. Made it about a mile up the freeway before this happened... WTF.

Got that sorted out. To my surprise, no bent pushrods. Hoping to make it in time to get the car to inspection and make the drivers meeting. My buddy/copilot followed me to the track in his Tacoma via the back-roads (55mph).

Made it 20 more minutes until it started loosing power again.
Then suddenly a smoke cloud behind me. No loud bang, just a quiet whisp then the engine died.
Pulled onto the shoulder to investigate.
I never lost oil pressure, the dipstick showed I was still at the mid-mark.
I can see smoke billowing out of under the top cylinder tins and the front area of the shroud.
No oil dripping from the cooler area, no oil dripping from the lower areas of the case, no oil dripping from the main-seal area.
Puffs of smoke out the tail pipe when we tried cranking it over via the starter.
No point of continuing any efforts on the side of this highspeed straight away with very little shoulder. So my buddy towed me to a safe location and waited for the tow truck.

Back at the house I pulled the plugs and did a compression test.
#1: 0 psi
#2: 0 psi
#3: 10 psi
#4: 50 psi

Will know more when I start taking it apart this week.
Clearly the universe was trying to tell me something and I wasn't listening. I am now.

Its time to think about my options. Do I stick with air-cooled or do I swap to a modern platform?
Dollar for dollar the cost of a swap would be a bit more but the gains of what comes with a modern swap would justify the cost. Depending on how bad the damage is IF its not too bad I'd stick with air-cooled. From a long-term reliability and lower maintenance standpoint, a modern engine is the clear winner. Though to get there will require a complete system rework. Which I've just recently finished this car, so that would suck big time.

It would be awesome IF I could rely on the baja as alternative vehicle, say if one of our 20+ year old daily drivers craps out. Our 07 CRV just hit 240k. My recently purchased 97 Camry has 160k.
I was just beginning to trust the engine until the Pertronix died. Now its all gone to shit.

Alternative options so far:
2.2 or 2.4L Honda V-tec
EJ22 Subaru
2.2 or 2.4L Chevy Ecotec
2.2L 5sfe Toyota

If I was to do a swap I'd want a mild HP platform. I'm not looking for a high HP option. I want this new type-1 Benco Pro-Street trans to live a long life.
A 4 cylinder engine is what I'd be sticking with.

More to come...
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Bandit #19
1972 Baja Rallycross Bug

[veedubcrazy]

Broken camshaft? Just a guess...
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1967 Deluxe Sedan
1971 Squareback - "The Silver Surfer"

[slayer61]

My little brother has the eco tech in his thing, and he loves it.

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[Zed999]

Flat cam or why would every pushrod fall out?

[ps2375]

MY guess is lifters failing, flat cam would effect both sides, not just one side.

[Zed999]

[Schepp]

The two nuts holding the rocker assembly backed off. Doubled checked the 3/4 side while on the highway and that side was still tight.
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Bandit #19
1972 Baja Rallycross Bug

[Brian_e]

Check your valve springs.

It doesn't take much to overwhelm a stock style spring. Even a HD single spring with a 40mm valve on it will wear out quick if you use the upper RPM. You have been racing on those springs, most likely wrapping it up a little tight. They probably were not anything specal to begin with.

I had a problem with a huge load bus engine that wore out the HD springs with 40mm valves. It would start to miss about 4000rpm. Got worse and worse, but was fine around town with a light load. I pulled the heads and tested the springs, and they were noodles. It was floating the valves causing the miss. I swapped in some fancy singles I have with an inner damper coil, and it never missed again.

I also had push rods pop out just like that when I tried to run 1.4 rockers with single springs on my very first engine.

Brian
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So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[Schepp]

MOFOCO 041 heads. Whatever springs they use.
Stock rockers, pushrods, lifters.
CB cross shaft kit, w/ swivel feet. I adjusted the valves after the march race. Double checked the valve clearance when I changed the oil 3 weeks ago in preparation for this weekends race. Everything checked out good.
Drove the car 75 miles last Monday, no issues and drove fine.
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Bandit #19
1972 Baja Rallycross Bug

[Schepp]

I didn't build this engine with the intentions of racing in mind.
When I heard of the event happening in my area, I entered and was hooked.

Its highly probable the March race overwhelmed the heads. It took until now to see the results. For a solid 3mins each run it was held at 4500-5500rpm. I ran thing 6 runs both days.
The cam is a Eagle 2280

If the problem is only in the heads that would be the ideal outcome.

I'll post more pics when I take it apart.
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Bandit #19
1972 Baja Rallycross Bug

[Brian_e]

Heavy valves, weak springs, high RPM.

I know from experience, a 40mm valve on cheap springs, with a little RPM will not last long. I also know from experience, Mofoco single springs are nothing special. Hardly better than a stock spring.

Its not a clearance thing. Its an RPM thing when the springs don't have any control left in them.

Your loss of compression could be a few things, but the first I would check is the valves again, and make sure you are 100% on the correct TDC for #1 compression stroke when you start doing them.

A leakdown test would be far better for trying to trouble shoot and narrow down the issue.

Brian
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So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[Bub]

This seems like a good guess :

[ps2375]

I just finished a season of auto-X with my racecar, 40mm valves and this season I had installed the Beehives, and the motor has seen 7K rpm with no ill effects. I have 1.4 ratio rockers and a FK44 cam. They are the "Beehives done right". Very happy with them. No mods needed to install them.

Glad it was as simple as loose rockers.

I also have a set in my street car motor with an SLR cam with hydro lifters and 1.3 ratio rockers in a set of MOFOCO 044 heads, with the 901 tranny swap it too has seen sprints to 7K rpm this year and that motor is doing just fine.

[Fender38]

[BFB]

dont think that an engine swap doesnt come with its own set of issues and that it'll just run like it did in its factory setting. not saying it cant but be prepared to have to go into it and do some tuning. or do like the guys did on one I picked up that had a supercharged 3800 and just eliminate the obd2 plug so you have no idea whats going on and just drive oblivious.
that aside, your going to double the weight of your vw engine so the suspension your fairly happy with is out the window.
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[Schepp]

One thing I'm glad I spent the extra time and money on, was fittings and connections that make servicing the car easy. For instance barbed hose connections vs AN fittings. Spade vs Deutsch electrical connections.
The fuel connection at the regulator was the only thing that is barbed and I had to destroy the cloth braided hose to get it off.

Nothing suspicious in the oil.

Having a shop helper who's enthusiastic and motivated is hard to come by these days. I think I'll keep this one around.

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Bandit #19
1972 Baja Rallycross Bug

[VW&MGman]

Stick with the air-cooled engine. Its easier to work on and will be cheaper in the long run than doing an engine swap. Also, don't think newer engines won't give you trouble. When they do, its a lot harder to fix.

Don't get discouraged, keep on going and keep us posted on any developments.

[BFB]

could be that this is just your car telling you it wants its engine built bigger & better, I mean it is perfect timing for a winter project...
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"how am i supposed to torque the rear wheel nut to 250 ft lbs??? " - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
Most experts aren't.

[Schepp]

[Dale M.]

IF you are going to "race" it occasionally build a motor for the class you want to run in, OR get stuck in the class where your motor fits....
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...