Rear Torsion Bar Removal

[Bohdan]

Greetings Fellow VW'ers. I am pretty confident my rear end is a bit low. Comparing the distance to the stop on a buddys Thing, I see a difference and need to re-index. Question, do I need to remove the torsion bar? I think the fender needs to come off. Or can I simply re-index by leaving the torsion bar in?Mighty Obliged.

[perello]

to re-index you will need to combine inner and outer splines, removing the fender makes it somehow easier but I did it with fender on

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Aug '58 pressed bumper SO23
1974 German Thing
1978 Bug 1200

[Bohdan]

Thanks for that info. I do have another question. The car started to sag on the left side. Without having anything done. Is it possible that the torsion bars can become weak with age or even break? If it would behoove me in procuring new bars, this seems like hell of a job. Don't want to do it twice. Mighty obliged

[mondshine]

If a rear torsion bar was broken, the car would be resting on its bump stop.
However, they do weaken over time.

This is a job that requires some patience, because even when adhering to "the numbers", the car might not sit right where you want it, if you have over or under corrected. So you might need to do this a couple of times (per side). This is to be expected, so don't get mad, just walk away from it for a while.

To re-index the torsion bars does not strictly require their complete removal, however the spring plates must be removed, and the four bushings should be replaced (unless you have very recently done so).

I have always been able to wiggle the parts out without removing the fenders, but you will need to (at lease partially) remove the shock absorbers and drive axles. If you have never re-greased your CV joints, this would be a good time to do that too. It's a nasty job, but somebody has to do it (you).


Here are some photos of home-made tools I have used for this unpleasant task:

Some ~3/4" diameter threaded rod and eye bolts, nuts, washers; all hardware store stuff.

The threaded rod is used to de-tension the torsion arm, so it can be pried off of its perch.
It could drop off of its perch with considerable force, so be careful.

Notice that the spring plate has been "dusted" with some spray paint before dis-assembly.
This allows me to re-position the diagonal arm "close enough to play jazz" to drive to the alignment shop for a four wheel alignment.

This wooden wonder is used to grip the torsion bar without gaffing up its coating.

The pry bar is being used to separate the spring plate from the torsion bar.
Prying between the wood and the body would separate the torsion bar from its inner mount.

According to the Thing Shop reprint of the 181 Workshop Manual, the correct spring plate angle is 27º. However, this is a hand edited figure in every copy of this manual that I have ever seen, so consider that 27º figure to be a starting point; your results may vary.

This image is from the Beetle Workshop Manual.
The photos and descriptions are more clear, but ignore the angle specification or 21º, 20'.

I hope this was helpful.
Take your time and have fun, Mondshine

[Bohdan]

Thank you for this info Mondshine. So in summary. the 27 degrees is the angle we need to achieve without the torsion bar being in "torsion". Once we get there, is then we move the swing arm and place it on the lip. Once the car is fully assembled, the weight of the engine, car, etc. should get it to the right spot. right? Mighty Obliged

[mondshine]

Right.

Good luck with your project.

[Johnnyw]

I adjusted my rear torsion bars last year and made a tool based on Mondshine example. It worked very well for me and would recommend it for your project.
John
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1974 Thing with a 1776
San Clemente, CA

[Bohdan]

Thank you Gents. Doing all my research. Mighty obliged

[Technut27]

Good luck, you'll make it happen, there be wizards on this forum!

As much as I DIY everything re-indexing my '74 still ranks as the most unpleasant task I've undertaken. The threaded rod I purchased had too small a diameter and was basically a single use tool. I went back in for a 2nd round when I wanted to bring it up more and by the end the rod was bent, and the threads were mangled. I'm also not sure if there was a manufacturing issue with my new bushings but there was no way I was going to compress them that far. I tried but at a point it felt like I was trying too hard and I didn't want to strip out the bolt holes. Granted I know if those strip you can just pass a bolt through, I just wanted to avoid having to.

It was my first time, if there is a next time it will go better! I do enjoy the leveled-out ride height. The right side sagged, and my rear bumper took a hit before my time and tweaked it down on the right which magnified it.