Alternator/ oil stand problem

[Carbineone1964]

OK having a problem here. I bought this motor disassembled and am just at the point of putting it back in soon..Heres the deal..

The guy I got it from lost the Alternator/oil filler stand so I bought another. But the problem is the generator will not drop far enough down into the saddle..

Hopefully you can see my dilemma from the pics..Do I need to trim the front of the stand saddle back so it drops further in the saddle..Do I have the wrong Alternator/oil stand..

My motor is AH code so I think around 1972..All the other stuff besides the Generator stand is what was on the motor when I bought it..It looks like if I can cut around 1/2 inch off the front of the saddle The generator will drop down into the stand as the alternator is narrower diameter a 1/2 inch or so back. But if cut the stand saddle back..Am I going to run into going through the stand into the oil filler tube. Hope I am making sense here..Yes the motor is sitting in my room away from the Wifey..LOL.

Hopefully someone can help please..Thanks

Pics

[Bobs67vwagen]

The stands for generator and alternator are not the same. You probably bought a generator stand.

[Glenn]

[Carbineone1964]

Goll dangit..I cannot take it back to the people either..I guess I will search for a Alternator stand then..I see what the deal is now.. I might just try to modify it now as it is useless to me as is..

Thanks to both of you for the help..I appreciate it greatly..

[Tim Donahoe]

Don't modify it. Get the correct part.

Tim
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Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

This is a great alternator stand, better than the original German IMO. I have this one of my motors and will install it on the other after I remove it.

https://thedubshop.com/mexican-alternator-stand/
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"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...we hardly knew ye. Sold 2025 for peanuts.
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[Carbineone1964]

Ok I modified it..Took about an Hour..But it will suffice just fine..I cannot not spend more money that I can avoid doing this, And it needs to be done..So I improvise, and make stuff work..

Thanks

[Bobs67vwagen]

Where there is a will there is a way someone once said. Hope it works for you.

[ashman40]

Does Nebraska get very cold in the winters? That center mounted IDF carb really needs heat from the exhaust, but I don't see the heat riser tubes from the #2 and #4 exhaust ports. Maybe you have them removed since you have the exhaust removed?

Without the heat riser tubes you will find that the center section of the intake will get very cold to the touch. Even cold enough in moderate temps for frost to form on the outside. This may eventually result in the atomized fuel condensating and puddling on the intake walls as a liquid. This will mess up your air-fuel mixture. Hopefully you have the heat riser tubes and the ports at the exhaust.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Carbineone1964]

Tis is actually a warm weather use Machine..The motor is actually in my sandrail..It will not see any cold weather, not with me in it anyway.LOL.It has the original exhaust setup that was always in the Sandrail. It is a professional Factory built Sandrail.I think it is an older Manco maybe, or something like that?.Not a built in someone's garage type thing...

I have not got as far as the exhaust being put on yet. That will be last after the engine is back in.. One thing at a time I guess..LOL

[Carbineone1964]

OK

Ashman mentioned heat risers..I would like to install them and here is what I have to work with.. They were there before and are gone now. Just the holes in the headers there yet..What is a good solution to get heat to the intake Manifold in my case? I can weld and fabricate, just need to see what the best option might be in this case.Loks like they tapped into 1 and 3 pipes...Thanks

[Bobs67vwagen]

There is a member named schepp who did a write up on his modification in detail in the off road section if you look for it.

[Carbineone1964]

It looks like they just had copper tubing brazed into the header before. Going into the holes in the intake manifold on each side... I suppose what was there before may suffice? I will try to find that thread..But not real good at such stuff. Thanks

I did search member Schepp.. Never found any threads pertaing to heat risers though..Thanks

[vamram]

Lots out there here! Use the search function.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc...=titleonly
_________________
"Men are qualified for civil liberty in exact proportion to their disposition
to put moral chains upon their own appetites. -Edmund Burke

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...we hardly knew ye. Sold 2025 for peanuts.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[67rustavenger]

Shepp's Single IDF carb heat thread,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
He's done a few other mods to his intake system to get decent heat to the carb.
Search around the offroad forum and the performance forum for most of his information.
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2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!
Don't let your bad ideas remain, ideas!

[Carbineone1964]

Thanks, I will read through it..

[Carbineone1964]

OK I brazed in some heat risers. Will see how that goes.

I have another issue someone may be be able to help on.. I have a points ignition in this. A few times something seems to be grounding out..It will run great, then the next day it has intermittent spark sometimes. Or it completely loses it and will not start. When this happens. The positive side of the coil never loses power. But the negative output terminal stays solid lit with a test light when I turn it over. It of course should pulse the test light when turned over. And of course no spark can happen. I replaced the coil today, checked the points gap and timing. Fuel is NOT the issue at all. I pulled the condenser off and did test and it tested good. I doubt it is a condenser problem. As they usually cause problems when they heat up. Not when they are cold..It has new points, cap and rotor too...

I did drive it around ten miles today and it always started right up all day and ran great. But I did make one change. And not sure this is it. But it has a aftermarket RPM Tachometer. I left the wire to the Tach off the coil today. today.

Is there a chance tach being hooked up and maybe defective could cause it to ground out the ignition system? The Tach operates fine when hooked up. Just seems it could be the culprit though.

I went to look at getting a new condenser today. They both have the little harness all wired with the condenser. But what is strange in the computer at the Auto store..They showed a standard condenser and harness and a identical one other identical from appearance. But the other one said it has a RPM cutout built into the condenser? Ever heard of a different condenser when using a Tachometer? I never have.

Anyway will be curious with the tach unhooked if it starts and runs first thing tomorrow. Or if the ignition system will be grounded out again. Hope not and it related to the aftermarket Tach...Thanks and will let you know how it acts in the morning..

Sorry for the long post. And hope I am not confusing you..LOL

[ashman40]

Points are a simple ON/OFF contact switch. When the point contacts are closed, the coil #1 (-) terminal is grounded. When the point contacts open, the power flow going into #15 (+) thru the coil primary windings and out the #1 (-) terminal grounding thru the points is disrupted. This opening of the points is what causes the coil to send a spark out the secondary winding. If the #1 wire is always grounded, the coil never sparks.

How did you wire your test lamp? Normally, the 12v test lamp is connected between #1 and a good ground. Doing this offers the current coming out of the #1 terminal two paths to ground. When the points are closed, the path thru the points is the lowest resistance so the large majority of the current flows thru the points so the test lamp remains OFF. When the points OPEN there is only one path to ground... thru the test lamp so it turns ON.
If this is how you connected your test lamp and it remained ON while cranking your engine... it suggests that points are NOT closing.

This is a very simple thing to test....

Disconnect the #1 wire coming from the points/condenser from the ignition coil #1 terminal.
Connect one end of your test lamp to this points/condenser wire.
Connect the other end to the ignition coil #15 (+) terminal so it has a power source.
Turn the ignition switch ON.
Remove the distributor cap and look at the points while you rotate the crank pulley (car in neutral).
When you see the point contacts CLOSE, the test lamp should turn ON because it is now grounded by the points wire.
Continue to rotate the crank pulley until the points OPEN. The test lamp should turn OFF since there is no longer a path to ground.

Run this test both with the tach connected to #1 and with the tach disconnected. It should not make a difference in the test results.

Report back what you find.

Next time you drive, do it with the tach connected. If/when the engine dies or no longer starts, disconnect the tach wire and see if the engine starts normally. That will pretty much tell you if the tach is the problem.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Carbineone1964]

The points and gap are definitely operating properly and they open and close fine. Gap is set at .016 That is going off what I read.. It is something grounding out for sure..If I have time to run it for a while tomorrow afternoon. I will try it with the tach hooked up and see if it loses spark again..I did go out a little bit ago and it fired right off with the tach unhooked..

I have owned and worked on, and rebuilt all types of engines from small single cylinders, Cars, skidloaders, MCs to large diesels. Of course a diesel does not have spark ignition. But I have never encountered this before any carbureted spark ignition engine....I am sure this has nothing to do with what is going on..But I did rebuild the engine recently. Has great consistent compression across all four cylinders..

I did cheap out on a brand new low priced distributor from Ebay..But I do not think that is the problem right now..But it was all could afford to spend right now. I will eventually try to find an original Bosch, that is what I think I read they came with. I thought about getting a electronic distributor. But I am kinda old school and like the points ignition. And I am not even sure if a electronic distributor is just a drop in conversion or if it needs any additional outside the distributor mods.....

I can always get a points ignition up and running again if it fails..Electronic setups are not as easy to get going again in the middle of nowhere, as points are. Electronics usually require a new part to get them going again...Thanks

[Carbineone1964]

It is getting colder here.. But I tried to run it again with the tach unhooked and hooked up..Made no difference. So I went and bought a new cap, points, and a condenser with wire harness. It has not done it again with the tach hooked up. Not 100 percent sure it is fixed yet,,But might be. I did take the original cap off and the little rotor contact and spring fell out of the cap..That may have been the problem the whole time..Just a defective China made cap..