| Author |
Message |
kuops Samba Member
Joined: June 28, 2019 Posts: 31 Location: Vanc WA
|
Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 5:42 pm Post subject: Re: 2003 24V VR6: Timing questions, cam correlation codes,won't idle |
|
|
Haha ya for sure they aren't fixing any problem. We installed both soon after we bought it since we didn't know vehicle history, so definitely more just a " let's cover the bases we can and hope for the best" kind of thing.
Van has had that stutter right at 35-40mph the 2 years we've owned it. ATS Trans in Portland installed the cooler for us and recommended the live data Pro version of the OBDEleven which we have but forgot at home last weekend.  _________________ 2003 24V V6 Transporter/Eurovan |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
chaspear Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2022 Posts: 1 Location: USA
|
Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2025 4:02 pm Post subject: Re: 2003 24V VR6: Timing questions, cam correlation codes,won't idle |
|
|
Looking for some experienced feedback on doing a timing chain/system replacement for my 2003 VW Eurovan/Rialta motorhome with a 2.8 liter 24-valve VR-6 engine (AXK).
I now have 214K miles on this rig and have used Castrol Syntec 5W-30 full synthetic oil since we bought it in 2005 with 3800 miles on it.
I hear the common engine noise on cold start (lifters), but after a few seconds, it goes away and I get the “normal” rattle of a timing chain engine.
I also have an engine (cam cover?) gasket that leaks engine oil into the #5 cylinder well over time.
This is a very slow leak, but happens when engine is running and hasn’t yet affected the #5 spark plug-so far.
In 2021 I had planned to do a 200K mile detailed borescope inspection of the engine to determine sprocket wear, chain stretch, guide wear/breakage, etc. and based on that inspection, THEN decide whether to change out parts or not.
That didn’t happen back then.
My local mechanic (small shop specializes in VWs) said with that mileage, even with full synthetic oil, if they tear down the engine to the level that they can inspect and replace (if needed) any of the chains/guides/sprockets in that system, they would plan to replace all the wearing parts ($200-$400) as a matter of course because labor is a major part of getting that deep into it and accounts for most of the cost of that effort.
I can understand their logic, but just wondering what others in this group have done in a similar situation as mine.
Depending on how things come apart, labor cost might run $1500-$2000, and with the parts only around $200-$400, I take their point.
Any thoughts from experienced members on this group would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
chas pearson |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Technoblau  Samba Member

Joined: January 23, 2023 Posts: 25 Location: Probably under a T4
|
Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 8:25 pm Post subject: Re: 2003 24V VR6: Timing questions, cam correlation codes,won't idle |
|
|
| chaspear wrote: |
Looking for some experienced feedback on doing a timing chain/system replacement for my 2003 VW Eurovan/Rialta motorhome with a 2.8 liter 24-valve VR-6 engine (AXK).
I now have 214K miles on this rig and have used Castrol Syntec 5W-30 full synthetic oil since we bought it in 2005 with 3800 miles on it.
I hear the common engine noise on cold start (lifters), but after a few seconds, it goes away and I get the “normal” rattle of a timing chain engine.
I also have an engine (cam cover?) gasket that leaks engine oil into the #5 cylinder well over time.
This is a very slow leak, but happens when engine is running and hasn’t yet affected the #5 spark plug-so far.
In 2021 I had planned to do a 200K mile detailed borescope inspection of the engine to determine sprocket wear, chain stretch, guide wear/breakage, etc. and based on that inspection, THEN decide whether to change out parts or not.
That didn’t happen back then.
My local mechanic (small shop specializes in VWs) said with that mileage, even with full synthetic oil, if they tear down the engine to the level that they can inspect and replace (if needed) any of the chains/guides/sprockets in that system, they would plan to replace all the wearing parts ($200-$400) as a matter of course because labor is a major part of getting that deep into it and accounts for most of the cost of that effort.
I can understand their logic, but just wondering what others in this group have done in a similar situation as mine.
Depending on how things come apart, labor cost might run $1500-$2000, and with the parts only around $200-$400, I take their point.
Any thoughts from experienced members on this group would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
chas pearson |
Hi Chas, not an expert but I can offer my experience tackling the timing job in our garage a few years ago.
The only way to get to the timing components is by either removing the transmission from the vehicle for access or pulling both the engine and transmission out and then separating them. Either way, lots of stuff will have to be removed like engine wiring, exhaust downpipe, axles and most of the coolant hoses. This took me several days of work, and then you have to do it all in reverse when you're ready to put it back together. A pro would be a lot faster than me, but you'll still be paying for a double digit number of labor hours just to get to the chains.
Once everything is torn down, replacing the actual timing bits shouldn't be hard for any competent mechanic. I'd never done this before and I had the chains, guides, tensioners, intermediate sprockets and hardware swapped and timed correctly in about an hour.
All of this to say, if it's taken apart far enough to inspect the timing components, I think you'd be nuts to not replace it all while you're in there. Our '01 was also very well taken care of with regular oil changes since new. But when I tore it down after 200,000 miles, I found worn guides, chewed up intermediate sprocket, etc. If you're looking for an easier way to inspect your chains, the oil fill tube comes off with a few bolts and will give you a view of the upper chain. You could probably snake your borescope in there to get a look at the lower chain and intermediate shaft.
It's also worth noting that the front end being torn down to do timing chains is a fantastic opportunity to replace a lot of other stuff you don't normally have access to. It's better than having to tear it all back apart again in a year when your rear main starts leaking or something. While we had the motor out for the timing job, we also replaced the:
- Thermostat and thermostat housing
- Coolant transfer "crack" pipe
- Exhaust gaskets
- Intake gaskets
- Valve cover and plug tube gaskets
- Rear main seal
- Oil pump
- Water pump
- Serp belt
- O-rings on the VVT solenoids
- Engine and trans mounts
- Other things I'm probably forgetting
Some of the above was due to issues that we'd noticed and some was preventative, but you'll never have a better (or cheaper) opportunity than when it's already taken apart for this major service. All of the parts cost thousands, but it was worth it for peace of mind on a vehicle we intend to keep, and one that exists to be used at random campsites far from a shop. And when the van was all back together and running, it was hard to believe how much smoother and quieter it ran. These things wear a little bit at a time and you get used to noise and vibration...until it's gone and you remember how it was supposed to drive all along.
Sorry for the soapbox, just wanted to give you my perspective. I'll attach a few pics below of new vs 200k mile timing components for your reference. Some of the guides were so brittle that they snapped while being removed.
Btw, for your plug #5 oil leak, the valve cover gasket has individual seals pressed into its underside for each spark plug tube. Swapping those out stopped the oil buildup in the plug tubes for us. That job would also take a fair bit of work since you have to remove the intake manifold and a number of other bits to get to the valve cover.
Old timing components after removing the timing cover:
With all new parts installed:Closeup of the old vs new sprockets:
Closeup of the old vs new chain:
Guide that snapped during removal:
Overview of the old vs new timing system:
_________________ 2001 MV Weekender - Techno Blue - New Chains, Seals and Trans, ≈213k
2003 MV Weekender - Tornado Red - the new project, 302k! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
qval Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2022 Posts: 88 Location: Idaho
|
Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:08 pm Post subject: Re: 2003 24V VR6: Timing questions, cam correlation codes,won't idle |
|
|
Chas, have you read through the timing chain VCDS diagnosis thread?:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20
The first two pages have lots of great info from forum members
You should definitely check all of those parameters before digging in super far.
I think you can replace the upper chain guide without removing the transmission. And that way you can remove the screen which can get sucked into the phasers and maybe soak the phasers in solvent to degum them.
I'm not a 24v owner but I'm jealous of all the high tech diagnosis tools your modern systems enable. _________________ 2000 MV weekender, 270k miles |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Technoblau  Samba Member

Joined: January 23, 2023 Posts: 25 Location: Probably under a T4
|
Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 10:30 pm Post subject: Re: 2003 24V VR6: Timing questions, cam correlation codes,won't idle |
|
|
| qval wrote: |
Chas, have you read through the timing chain VCDS diagnosis thread?:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20
The first two pages have lots of great info from forum members
You should definitely check all of those parameters before digging in super far.
I think you can replace the upper chain guide without removing the transmission. And that way you can remove the screen which can get sucked into the phasers and maybe soak the phasers in solvent to degum them.
I'm not a 24v owner but I'm jealous of all the high tech diagnosis tools your modern systems enable. |
You can indeed change the upper guide by removing just the upper cover (no trans removal). May or may not help but may be worth trying.
I'll try to dig up my old notes on what the cam adjuster KW were reading before right before we did chains on the blue van and put them in that thread. _________________ 2001 MV Weekender - Techno Blue - New Chains, Seals and Trans, ≈213k
2003 MV Weekender - Tornado Red - the new project, 302k! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|