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Trying to identify my engine
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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 4:32 pm    Post subject: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Hey all.

I’m trying to learn about my engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It doesn’t have a number on the case below the generator stand as I’ve seen elsewhere. The number is beside it on the top to the left.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Not a great picture but it’s U0470992

According to this thread here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php

It looks like it was maybe from a Type 3? So would I be correct in assuming this block is from a type 3, and was rebuilt with the components that would have been used in the beatle/ghia?

If anyone can tell me any more from the picture, or lead me to things I can check to learn more about it, I’d be very appreciative.

Also, I’d like to do an upgrade to an alternator. Can anyone tell me if this fuel pump will need to be replaced to accommodate the alternator/stand?

Thanks.

Craig.
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Last edited by craigolio1 on Sat Nov 15, 2025 5:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Type 3 converted to upright with dual port heads and a generator. 74 intake with EGR fitting, 34PICT carb and 009 distributor.
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 4:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:
Can anyone tell me if this fuel pump will need to be replaced to accommodate the alternator/stand?

No, that fuel pump will work with an alternator.

FYI...the 009 distributor doesn't play well with a 34PICT-3 carb. It'll run, but can exhibit a notorious flat spot off idle that's nearly impossible to tune out.
An SVDA (single vacuum, dual advance) distributor will work much better.

One other thing...the outlets in the shroud that supply air to the heater boxes (if present) are blocked off, so you'll have no heat/defrost in the cabin.
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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Type 3 converted to upright with dual port heads and a generator. 74 intake with EGR fitting, 34PICT carb and 009 distributor.


Well that’s impressive.

Would you mind helping me see how to spot the dual port heads, ‘74 heads and carb type?

Thank you!

Edit: never mind that used my own brain and google. Thanks again for the info!

Craig
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Last edited by craigolio1 on Sun Nov 16, 2025 7:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2025 5:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

rcooled wrote:
craigolio1 wrote:
Can anyone tell me if this fuel pump will need to be replaced to accommodate the alternator/stand?

No, that fuel pump will work with an alternator.

FYI...the 009 distributor doesn't play well with a 34PICT-3 carb. It'll run, but can exhibit a notorious flat spot off idle that's nearly impossible to tune out.
An SVDA (single vacuum, dual advance) distributor will work much better.

One other thing...the outlets in the shroud that supply air to the heater boxes (if present) are blocked off, so you'll have no heat/defrost in the cabin.


That’s great info! Thank you.

This car has an electronic ignition conversion inside the distributor. Will that bit about the flat spot still apply? I just got the car and I’ve only driven it six or seven times. I can’t say I’ve noticed a flat spot but then I’ve never driven any other Volkswagen so I don’t have a frame of reference. What does a flat spot feel like when you’re driving?

I’m aware of the no heat. The heater boxes are gone and it has J-tubes. I’m ok with that as it’s just a fair weather fun car for me.

Again thanks for the info!!

Craig
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 1:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:
What does a flat spot feel like when you’re driving?

Feels like the engine will stumble a bit when moving off from a stop. Not all 009s exhibit this trait...maybe you got lucky. It has more to do with how the distributor advances rather than if it uses points or an electronic module.
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Era Vulgaris
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 2:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:


Would you mind helping me see how to spot the dual port heads,


You can tell it's dual port from the intake manifold. The ends of the intake manifold split into two passages for an individual port on each cylinder.
With single port heads the intake manifold doesn't split, and there's only a single port on the head for the two cylinders.

You'd be wise to remove the block-off plates on the fan shroud outlets, or at least drill a dime-size hole in them. When those outlets are fully blocked off, it'll create turbulence inside the fan shroud that reduces cooling efficiency.
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Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 2:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

You don;t want the fuel filter touching the spark plug wires.

Old plastic filters leak and old wires spark. Recipe for a fire.
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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

rcooled wrote:
craigolio1 wrote:
What does a flat spot feel like when you’re driving?

Feels like the engine will stumble a bit when moving off from a stop. Not all 009s exhibit this trait...maybe you got lucky. It has more to do with how the distributor advances rather than if it uses points or an electronic module.


Thank you. I do feel a little of that in maybe the first 15 min of driving. When I first start it I have to keep a bit higher RPM for maybe 5 min. And then for bit after that I have to accelerate slowly from a stop to keep from stalling. Then fine after that. This was this past month when outside temps were quite cool. I figured the engine just needed to warm up. When I’m back on the road in the spring I’ll pay more attention to see if there is a flat spot.

Thanks again for that info.

Craig
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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
You don;t want the fuel filter touching the spark plug wires.

Old plastic filters leak and old wires spark. Recipe for a fire.


Yikes! Ok I’ll take care of that asap.

Thank you!!

Craig
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 4:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Era Vulgaris wrote:
craigolio1 wrote:


Would you mind helping me see how to spot the dual port heads,


You can tell it's dual port from the intake manifold. The ends of the intake manifold split into two passages for an individual port on each cylinder.
With single port heads the intake manifold doesn't split, and there's only a single port on the head for the two cylinders.

You'd be wise to remove the block-off plates on the fan shroud outlets, or at least drill a dime-size hole in them. When those outlets are fully blocked off, it'll create turbulence inside the fan shroud that reduces cooling efficiency.


Awesome, thanks for that.

I’ve seen it posted else where that those holes need to blocked off so that hot engine air isn’t fed into the engine bay and then drawn back into it, potentially causing over heating. Your position is it’s better to have them open? Maybe I’m confused. This happens often, haha.

Craig.
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 6:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:
Era Vulgaris wrote:
When those outlets are fully blocked off, it'll create turbulence inside the fan shroud that reduces cooling efficiency.

I’ve seen it posted else where that those holes need to blocked off so that hot engine air isn’t fed into the engine bay.

It's not a matter of hot air getting into the engine bay...the shroud directs cool air from the fan thru the oil cooler and down over the heads & cylinders. If those outlets are left open, a bunch of that cooling air will escape from the shroud instead of being sent where it's needed most.
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'67 Ghia convertible (current)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 6:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Nothing wrong with having them closed off.

Old baby food jar lids fit perfectly.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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craigolio1
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 7:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

rcooled wrote:
craigolio1 wrote:
Era Vulgaris wrote:
When those outlets are fully blocked off, it'll create turbulence inside the fan shroud that reduces cooling efficiency.

I’ve seen it posted else where that those holes need to blocked off so that hot engine air isn’t fed into the engine bay.

It's not a matter of hot air getting into the engine bay...the shroud directs cool air from the fan thru the oil cooler and down over the heads & cylinders. If those outlets are left open, a bunch of that cooling air will escape from the shroud instead of being sent where it's needed most.


Ah ok. I’ve never heard it explained that way. That makes sense.

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2025 7:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Nothing wrong with having them closed off.

Old baby food jar lids fit perfectly.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I love it. Required in California as a recycling initiative?
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 7:21 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

See this thread where Jake Raby mentions this exactly. Fully blocking off the fresh air outlets creates turbulence in the fan shroud. His recommendation is to use a plug with a small hole, which mimics the backpressure of the heat exchangers, but also allows for the air bleed that VW designed into the shroud.
There is always air flowing through those outlets, so it's not lost air -it's a common misconception to think it is. When the heat is off, the fresh air moving through them is still bled off to the atmosphere through the heat exchangers. When the heat is on, the air moves through the heat exchangers into the cabin. Air that enters those fresh air outlets has zero chance of being used for engine cooling anyway, and the shroud was designed for air to ALWAYS be moving through them. There is no lost cooling air. But if they are fully blocked it will disrupt how the air that is actually used for cooling flows through the rest of the shroud.
I mean keep them fully blocked if you want, but I'll take the advice of a world class engine builder who has mountains of data on these engines.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1256992#1256992
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Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:
When I first start it I have to keep a bit higher RPM for maybe 5 min. And then for bit after that I have to accelerate slowly from a stop to keep from stalling. Then fine after that. I figured the engine just needed to warm up.

This could be due to the intake manifold heat risers being blocked...not all that unusual on these motors.
Do you notice any moisture, or even frost, building up on the manifold just below the carb? The heat risers warm the manifold in order to keep fuel from condensing on the inside walls and causing the condition you describe.
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'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2025 12:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

rcooled wrote:
craigolio1 wrote:
When I first start it I have to keep a bit higher RPM for maybe 5 min. And then for bit after that I have to accelerate slowly from a stop to keep from stalling. Then fine after that. I figured the engine just needed to warm up.

This could be due to the intake manifold heat risers being blocked...not all that unusual on these motors.
Do you notice any moisture, or even frost, building up on the manifold just below the carb? The heat risers warm the manifold in order to keep fuel from condensing on the inside walls and causing the condition you describe.


Interesting, I was just reading about heat risers. The weather hasn’t been cold enough for frost but I can do that test in a month when the weather here has reached maximum discomfort. But I can go and run it and check for moisture and report back.

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 3:04 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

craigolio1 wrote:
Hey all.

I’m trying to learn about my engine.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It doesn’t have a number on the case below the generator stand as I’ve seen elsewhere. The number is beside it on the top to the left.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Not a great picture but it’s U0470992

According to this thread here:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php

It looks like it was maybe from a Type 3? So would I be correct in assuming this block is from a type 3, and was rebuilt with the components that would have been used in the beatle/ghia?

If anyone can tell me any more from the picture, or lead me to things I can check to learn more about it, I’d be very appreciative.

Also, I’d like to do an upgrade to an alternator. Can anyone tell me if this fuel pump will need to be replaced to accommodate the alternator/stand?

Thanks.

Craig.


Hello, if this is really a type 3 engine, what of course can be, where is the oil pressure switch and the tube for the oil level dipstick?
How is that solved on that engine?
Individual handmade solutions?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2025 3:45 am    Post subject: Re: Trying to identify my engine Reply with quote

Oil pressure switch is in the oil cooler and the dipstick is in a adapter part that fit in the T3 oil fill.

Oil cooler
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HwEAAeSwwatoz2dH/s-l1600.jpg

Dipstick
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ltgAAOSwal5YGCPh/s-l1600.jpg
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