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my engine is no more
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M_atthewanderson
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Joined: January 25, 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:02 pm    Post subject: my engine is no more Reply with quote

Crying or Very sad
1980 Volkswagen Vanagon 2.0 fuel injected federal,

Well it’s gone and done it my Vanagon needs a new engine or an engine rebuild. I am going to drain my oil to see if there is any metal in the screen but right now I hear an awfully violent metal banging deep in my case and grey smoke coming out of my exhaust. but not a real loss of power!? Monday I leave to Indonesia to meet my girlfriend’s parents so now I have three weeks to freak about it before I can come back and really look deeply into my options. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated on where to pick up a rebuilt engine. I don’t know if my core is good and if there anything I can do to check it I am all ears. Seattle is nice with a bike so I think I will maybe try to rebuild it too. Any resources you can think of.
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r39o
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand it is getting harder and harder to get good quality parts. You may look at what the Type 4 rebuilders are offering. If it is a stock window van, maybe it is time to say good bye. A later water cooled one that is in good shape may cost less than a good rebuilt engine. Never know.

Good Luck....
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Tram
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to worry about it while you're on your trip. It will still be just as bad when you get back. Wink
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M_atthewanderson
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it has a sweet sunroof and plus i already put so much into the brakes and stearing and new transmission i am going to make the investment. i am going to take the how to keep your engine alive for the complete idiot with me on my 21 hour plane ride. And read the engine overhaul part. I think i will go to bow wow to see if there is any other reading i think would be good for a complete idiot doing an engine overhaul.
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cnskate
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe you should get the video

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/home.php

and expect to spend a lot getting the heads rebuilt
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the buelow
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW USA has air cooled rebuilds for your van for about $2800. Talk to a local vw dealer or a reliable local shop. that is with a core exchange condition is not important to them provided it isn't blown up. hope that helps, i know that is a bit expensive.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seriously, first I think you need to find out exactly what's wrong. If it's banging like hell but still runs OK with no loss of power, my first thought would be loose flywheel, which may or may not be a disaster. Second thing that might have happened is that one of the nuts holding a rocker on has come off and is banging around in the valve cover.
Or, maybe you've got a badly collapsed lifter banging away.
Start with the small stuff first. I've seen it all, and it always sounds way worse than it is.
Have a nice trip and remember that knowledge is power. It may sound funny, but knowing how to overhaul your engine is way more common than knowing how to pinpoint and fix a problem.
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tram speaks the truth. leak down, dyno oil test. start at the basics
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cnskate
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the buelow wrote:
VW USA has air cooled rebuilds for your van for about $2800. Talk to a local vw dealer or a reliable local shop. that is with a core exchange condition is not important to them provided it isn't blown up. hope that helps, i know that is a bit expensive.


Never thought of going to a dealer for one. Any idea on the quality?
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tgrogan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The real question is do they even have any for $2800, and if they do are they even German. A prominent (unnamed) supplier sells Spanish heads for $400 each and they are generally assumed to be reasonable. Their deficiency is the quality of their valves and seating. Several places will replace those valves with better quality stainless steel valves, and do a proper valve job for about $200 more per head. Do some research on the web and pick a supplier than has good feedback. At a minimum there are 3 highly qualified sources for heads.

For a core, most engine builders only need a good block, crank, and rods. They are going to replace the heads, cylinders, and pistons (maybe cam too) anyway. Expect to spend $2-3,000 for a well-built engine, plus, several hundred $ upgrading all of the rubber/plastic stuff in the engine compartment.

The truth be, I wouldn't do it for a non-Westy. Just move on.
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bljones
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tgrogan wrote:
. A prominent (unnamed) supplier sells Spanish heads for $400 each and they are generally assumed to be reasonable. Their deficiency is the quality of their valves and seating. Several places will replace those valves with better quality stainless steel valves, and do a proper valve job for about $200 more per head.


Some suppliers will ugrade to german valves for less than $30/ head. or you can do it yourself for less than $50/head.
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terryg
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Certainly the parts can be had for that. All you have to do is install them well, including a 3 angle valve job to replace the single angle one that comes on the Spanish heads, and checking for proper clearence in the valve guides - or replacing them because they were not properly installed by the factory. It's only money. Slap on a pair of stock Spanish heads on an air-cooled, you might get 20k out of them. Get the best installation of the best valves and guides, you might get 50k out of them. But I bet labor costs more than parts at any end of the spectrum. The only way you really know is when the failure occurs and you add up the cost per mile - do it again another way and calculate another cost per mile.
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