Chevy Guy with a Baja

CopperBaja · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:06 pm Post subject: Chevy Guy with a Baja

I started my install today. Here's the mess that I had to start with.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After pulling everthing I was left with this....

And this:

QUESTION: Anyone need a stock wiring harness? Are they worth anything?
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CopperBaja · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:08 pm Post subject:

After a bit of cleanup and some Rustoleum....

Much better looking, don't you think? Very Happy

Here's from a distance....

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Baja Ben · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:13 pm Post subject:

wow. that looks 100% better. now hit the gas tank. you can allways tell the real men from the boys by their attchen to detail, espicialy with wireing. a good clean wireing job says wonders about the build
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CopperBaja · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:20 pm Post subject:

I was thinking of that...was going to start another thread, but since the subject came up....

Should I have the tank cleaned out? What is the best way to clean it?

Oh....and what are the 2 sets of wires running across the tank? I can't see where they goto.
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Baja Ben · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:23 pm Post subject:

I would think your wire wheel there would do the job just fine. hot vw's did an artical about gas tank refurbishing but they went way over board if you ask me. hot tank and the whole nine yards. but just sanding and wire wheeling should be just fine i would think. that is what i did and never looked better. but again that back paint looks really good.

Baja Ben
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Jowlz · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:28 pm Post subject:

cleaning the gas tank is a good idea. There are a few ways to do it. Por-15 makes a kit to do it. There is an old fashioned way. Empty tank. Fill with water. Drain till empty. Put a few handfulls of pea gravel in the tank. Add some kerosene. not alot. Shake the tank with the gravel for a while. In all directions. Empty tank. Flush with water. Repeat until all signs of contanimation are gone. Reinstall.
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Baja Ben · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:32 pm Post subject:

oh. cool. I wasnt thinking about the inside but that is a really cool way to clean it out. Smile

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CopperBaja · Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 6:42 pm Post subject:

Thanks Jowlz!
Think I'll try that this weekend.

It's dark now, but I'm going to go ahead and pull the tank.....how I get sidetracked!!! Laughing

Clean up the trunk, then when it's nice and bright daylight tomorrow, back to the rewire! Cool

Seen that one of the wires is still the turn signal/headlight....not sure where the other goes....looks like under the tank.
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Kosmicride · Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:12 am Post subject:

they are probably your brake switch wires for your brake lights
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CopperBaja · Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:18 pm Post subject:

Yeah. Sorry, but forgot to post after I pulled the tank...

They are the brake wires. Thanks! I wasn't able to work on the bug today....had some dental work done earlier and I've been down all day.

This is my first bug and I was amazed at the braking system. What kind of system? Gravity fed?

Are there aftermarket brake lines? The stock ones don't look very strong. Is the only option to swap to hydraulic?

Plan on sanding and panting the tank tomorrow.
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Jowlz · Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:25 pm Post subject:

The VW brake system is pretty basic hydraulic. Upgrading to stainless lines might have a little noticable effect. On higher performance cars with bigger brakes the difference is small but noticable. The pedal feels firmer and the brakes work better. This is because the stainless lines dont expand like rubber. The bigger benefit in an off-road car...is a stray object...like a rock would be less likely to end your day. On off road cars I also like to see the later dual res. m/c's. If you lose either the fronts or the rears the other set still works.
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The honey-do list put my project on hold.......

CopperBaja · Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:23 pm Post subject:

There's a billet reservoir in JC Whitney.
Will this work on the Type 1 application?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Brow...30/c-10110

And then some stainless lines? Or are the zinc-plated good enough? (1/2 the price)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse/r...se/s-10101
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CopperBaja · Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:34 pm Post subject:

Here's the kit:

No, unfortunately the beer is not included in the kit.... Laughing

And here is my progress so far:

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(183)Beast · Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 5:12 pm Post subject:

subybaja · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 12:56 am Post subject:

I was told to use the white crushed quartz that you can get for aquariums...sharper than regular gravel. Also, muriatic acid inside, to get any rust the gravel misses.
I haven't tried this yet, but I guess you better wash that acid out well!

CopperBaja · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:17 pm Post subject: First Problem

I ran into a possible first problem.
The wires they use route directly from the fuse box to the alternator.

They don't mention anything about a voltage regulator. I can only assume that I need to keep the voltage regulator in the circuit, right?

I think I may have to get some new connections, since they were part of the wiring harness.
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DesertBob · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:36 pm Post subject:

Don't most alternators have built-in regulators? I know my Bosch does and my Motorola did.
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74 Super Beetle (German Look Project)
Full Flow 1776 with 36 Dells, 4 wheel drilled and slotted disc brakes, Porsche 7x17 Turbo Twists, Topline Maxx Struts, Camber kit, 7/8" Front Sway bar, Rear Sway bar, Urethane bushings all around.

CopperBaja · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:54 pm Post subject:

I don't know.... If so, how could I tell?

There's a 3 prong connection and a stud connection.
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DesertBob · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 2:09 pm Post subject:

CopperBaja · Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 2:28 pm Post subject:

I'm currently at work. Here's the closest pic I have with me:

If I don't need the regulator, then I can forge on through!

My other option is to buy a higher output/ more efficient, so I can run a stereo and CB and lights.
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