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Frankenstien Rail
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the front end on, torsion bars in, tree bars on
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engine back in brackets for lap belts, battery box in,
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Still have to come up with come up with a couple of tabs for lights. Roughing in cutting brake and shifter. Question, how short is to short for the shift rod? I know it has to rotate, right now mine is going to be (unless won't cycle through gears) 15 3/4 long.

Here is the lift that saved my back just raise it or lower push it up to the tranny and shake like a dog getting out of the water.
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But does the length of the shift rod matter? Thanks guys!

David
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok since no one really knows ( or would tell me Shocked )I wanted to get rid of the adapter while having a very short length of shift rod. I did some mods to the shifter to raise it up to the height of the tranny so no adapter is needed. Should work and also be able to mount items to it.

So that is what I started with, where the hockey stick was 6 1/4 higher then the shifter rod.

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And this is what I did to reach the height of the tranny hockey stick.
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So it will have a straight shot with no adaper. It should work, be glad when all this theroy stuff is proven.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a heads up, made a template for a windshield for the rail took it to the glass shop, I had a hole in the glass for windshield wiper, not a biggy just more $$ so guy told me 2 weeks again not a big deal. I asked safety glass he said yes I said automobile glass, yes? He said tempered because the hole, so no hole and laminated safety glass 3 days away and $60 bucks. Make sure you specify laminated safety glass.

Pulled the subie engine, only problem is undoing torque converter before pulling engine out, really small fingers would of been nice. Next comes the wiring harness and computer.
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volksbuggy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i noticed you have those poly seats. how do you like them? i was thinking of getting a set for the buggy but didnt know how comfortable they were. are the seat covers necisary? do they just bolt right up to the generic seat-rail systems or do you have to fab something up?

thanks
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Skidmark
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep us posted on the whole Suby thing, Cordy... I am almost convinced to go with a EJ25 Turbo, with the SOHC. More bottom end torque than the DOHC, and about 220 stock horsepower (after adding header and free flowing intake).
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

volksbuggy wrote:
i noticed you have those poly seats. how do you like them? i was thinking of getting a set for the buggy but didnt know how comfortable they were. are the seat covers necisary? do they just bolt right up to the generic seat-rail systems or do you have to fab something up?

thanks
The poly seats are ok, if the rail had the room and the chance of not getting mud, water, beer, etc. on it I would get suspension seats. I added some padding to them that helps but then again not going on real long trips. They would be able to bolt to a seat rail, if you can (room & money) go suspension. Polys are good for easy clean up not comfort.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skidmark wrote:
Keep us posted on the whole Suby thing, Cordy... I am almost convinced to go with a EJ25 Turbo, with the SOHC. More bottom end torque than the DOHC, and about 220 stock horsepower (after adding header and free flowing intake).


Skidmark you have done the math and know what it would take to get 220Hp in a VW engine I don't think you would regret it. Also what size torrsion bars are you running. It will be heavier. Will keep those interested posted.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My car came with 26mm SAW bars in it. It was set up with a VW Scirroco motor in it withthe radiator all the way up front. I got the car less motor and radiator. Initial plans were to go back to air cooled, but I want it licensed for street use too. A 220 h.p. VW motor is not very streetable... and I don't want to run race ga$. I have been told my bars may be too small, like I should go to 27's or 28's... that will wait for the initial testing when I get it running. Torsion bars are easy to replace if I need to later.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was told the EJ25 Turbo is around 290 lbs dry. Not too bad on the weight - less than I expected.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skidmark wrote:
I was told the EJ25 Turbo is around 290 lbs dry. Not too bad on the weight - less than I expected.

Ya the guy who own's moore parts has one in his street bug(not baja) he was telling me that is only 40lbs more than the vw1600. And he is allso runing a procomp trany behind it( the same one the they sell from kcr)
sweet set up if you ask me.
Baja ben
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrote Kennnedy a letter and this is what I recieved in reply.

Sorry, our wiring info is only for 1990 thru 1994 Subaru. Your '97 engine, like 1995 and newer, meets OBD-2 requirements which uses a different computer which does not put out trouble codes, it says take me to the dealer. Most sandrail customers spend about $1000 for an aftermarket computer.



KENNEDY ENGINEERED PRODUCTS 661-272-1147
38830 17th St. E Fax: 661-272-1575
Palmdale, CA 93550

Please include previous correspondence. It makes this process much easier to do follow up.


So on to something else. This is going to be interesting and educational to say the least. But somebody else has done this and we shall find out who. 1000 bucks has to be a better/cheaper way. So in looking for and engine the 94's and below would be easier not sure better but easier.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outback Motorsports... give them a call and see what they recommend. Not sure how cheap you can get the ECM by going after market, but the old adage always rings true - you get what you pay for.
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vidiesel
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question earlier on frame type or manufacture, do not know if it was answered or not, but it looks like a "whitehill" or whitesands? can't remember exact name
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I will see if I can find some info on those frames. Appreciate the input. I like the looks of it only drawback is the headroom.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are a sharp frame, you can get more head room, buy dropping the seat mount down through the frame a few inches, The ones i have seen used approx 1/8 or thicker solid steel with a offset V crease, like a small bucket. and this also gives it a nice comfy back tilt.
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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not a good pic but if you look at the aluminum plate you will see the floor has been recesed a 1 1/2 so it drops me down and angles the seat back it has helped out alot, before my nogin would hit the roof.



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USMCord1
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did the beam I covered up the holes for the grease fittings so moving them to the back of the beam for better protection. Here is what I found needs to be done to put the new ones in.

I used a 1/4 X 28 tap which calls for a .213 drill bit the closes thing I have is a .218 which equals 7/32 so first I test drill and tap in a 1/8 inch piece because that is also how thick the beam tubing is. Fitting snugs up good but I will add some blue locktite to it for added measure. Next add steering stabilizer and the front beam is ready for paint
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The grease fittings use a 1/4-28 tapered thread. Using a straight thread hole works okay for this, but using an over sized drill and a straight thread is asking for it. If I were you I would go out and buy the .213" drill bit. A .005" oversized hole makes a big difference when putting tapered threads into a straight thread hole. Don't try and tighten it too much, you may pull the threads out.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skidmark wrote:
The grease fittings use a 1/4-28 tapered thread. Using a straight thread hole works okay for this, but using an over sized drill and a straight thread is asking for it. If I were you I would go out and buy the .213" drill bit. A .005" oversized hole makes a big difference when putting tapered threads into a straight thread hole. Don't try and tighten it too much, you may pull the threads out.


Skid, thanks for the info, goes to show that just because it fits does not mean it will work. Will get the .213 bit, agree on tighten to much not alot of thread to grab. Thanks for the heads up.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some pics of the rail, damn subie engine kept getting in the way. By the way got the windshield roughed in also with wiper, it is powered by a 250 pound motor.

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Showing off my steering rod!

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If you look at the shaper table you will see the caps that hold the front beam on.
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First things to come off are the a/c and power steering pump, that should help the HP some.
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