Custom made $14.00 pressure bleeder

[Jimbug57]

As per somebody on Samba's idea I made this pressure bleeder today. Got the sprayer at Walmart for just under $9.00, and about $4.00 worth of parts at the hardware.

The cap is this: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D111%2D611%2D349

Then one of these:http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ...5577020634

A couple washers, a NPT 1/2" nut type thing, and a small band clamp.

I discovered I am not smarter than plastic. While unsticking the drill bit out of the lid I was dumb enough to hold it in my hand, and of course drilled a nice little chunk out of my palm. Oh well. I figure the dub god's required some kind of blood sacrifice for getting so cool a tool for so cheap.
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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[Fibersport]

The only thing I want to add to mine is a pressure gauge. I heard that you only need about 15 psi. Sure beats the $50 they're advertised for doesn't it?
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1973 Standard Beetle

[Randy in Maine]

(sometimes I am a little "slow on the draw" as they used to say in the old west....)

So:

1)you put some brake fluid in the sprayer,
2) put the cap on the reservoir,
3) pump it up to about 15 psi,
4) run back and crack the right rear brake line,
5) and the air comes out of the line?

[Jimbug57]

Yes.
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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[Lug Nut]

I just saw that sprayer at wallmart myself.

[Fibersport]

I also use the small cup from my vacuum pump and hook that to the bleeder, makes it real neat and easy. One thing though, it seems that I still have to bleed each wheel at least 2 or 3 times.
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1973 Standard Beetle

[cervilleyu]

first off, my apologies for my stupidness. kinda slow myself.

do you do this while there is brake fluid in the cars braking system or do you drain it first?

how does it work? with the pressure created in the walmart reservoir and by releasing pressure off the rigth rear brake valve does the new brake fluid go into the braking system and do i just close the brake valve when i see brake fluid coming out?

[Jimbug57]

I drain with a 1/4" clear rubber hose (slipped onto the bleeder valve) into a pint plastic milk carton - hole punched through the center of the cap to run the hose in.

cervilleyu -

[rresa]

I don't know if you guys have a Harbor Freights store in your region, but I picked up a one man brake bleeding kit for 4.99. Not only did it work like a charm, but it made bleeding brakes way too easy. Also, the way this kit worked, after applying the brake pedal several times, most if not all of the old brake fluid came out first along with the air bubbles in the brake line. You could tell because the old brake fluid had debris and was quite dark compared to the new brake fluid.

[Jimbug57]

I didn't know that was something they carried. There is a Harbor Freight store I can't wait to go to that is about 150 miles away from my house I close on tommorow. The one with the garage!

I want to get an air compressor, some air tools, and a HPLV kit from there. I'm going to try to get everything for about $300.00.

Then I need to place an order for a few items from CIP1, then I need..........
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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[cervilleyu]

guess i will be visiting harbor freight pretty soon. the one man bleeder is on sale for $1.99 and there is a location about 3 miles from where i live.

thanks so much for the info

[Jimbug57]

If you have a new MC and all new lines and wheel cylinders, I'd still go with the pressurized version. I've had problems getting a real firm pedal in that situation before. I had that problem many years ago, and I gave up - took it into the local import auto place. They used a power bleeder and it did the trick.

I've seen post's in this forum where guys are stumped on that problem, a new MC is always in the equation, and forcing the air out under pressure is the answere for that issue.
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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[Rome]

Nice work, jimbug!

[cervilleyu]

now i'm confused which route to take, hmmm