Author |
Message |
ricekooker Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2006 Posts: 1788 Location: Winter Park, FL
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:17 am Post subject: Super Beetle engine removal-Help |
|
|
I have done some searches but can't find any "how to's" on engine removal only. Does it come out of the bottom only? I thought that the rear section would come out like my bus but it doesn't. I have taken all of the bolts out that I thought held the rear section and it still won't budge. Maybe it's just too crusty? Any help would be appreciated. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Livens Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2005 Posts: 555 Location: Louisville, KY
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
I have never pulled an engine, but everything I have read says it has to drop out of the bottom. _________________ 1972 Super Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
focuszx3r Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2006 Posts: 299 Location: Kent Lakes, NY
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
You have to drop it out of the bottom. There are plenty of good guides out there and in the Bentley manual aswell. I did it my first time in about 2 hours.
First result on Google:
http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/kuhn7.htm _________________ I love my 55 Oval. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zenjeep Samba Member
Joined: July 08, 2005 Posts: 19 Location: ABQ, NM
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
there are three 17mm nuts and 1 17mm bolt that you will have to remove. you have to reach in behind the doghouse on the right side of the engine compartment to loosen the first one. this one is also the bolt that holds the starter on the tranny. next one is above the clutch assembly. this is actually a bolt you have to remove. the other 2 nuts are at the bottom of the engine. make sure you have a jack under the engine just barely supporting the engine. you grab the engine by the doghouse and the exhaust and work the motor towards you. periodically you will have to lower the jack to be able to work it off the tranny spindle. then when free you lower the jack down. now you want to make sure you have disconnected all the wiring from the engine, the back-up switch wiring on the right side, the gas line, the accelerator cable and the heater cables from the engine before you start pulling the engine from the tranny. i think that is all. i am able to remove and install the engine by myself in 30 minutes |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Kelley Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2003 Posts: 1432 Location: "Die Sonneküste" Crystal Beach, FL
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
zenjeep wrote: |
i am able to remove and install the engine by myself in 30 minutes |
Yep, once you have your routine down, it's easy. Pay attention to the details and order of events, they're important. _________________ 74 rusto-custom type 1 Sedan - SOLD
ZRX1100c3, Mean Green - SOLD
Growler wrote: |
I hate people. Are you people? I hate you. |
Just trying to remember classic Samba quotes from the 'Days of Yore' |
|
Back to top |
|
|
matt175 Samba Member
Joined: July 26, 2006 Posts: 117 Location: nc
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
you may have to loosen your dizzy, so you can turn it out of the way of the rear apron, and also your clamps holding your tail pipes on might get in the way. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bugorsh Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2004 Posts: 1358 Location: SoCal
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
The rear apron is bonded to the body where the fenders connect. It can be removed and replaced (usually only done if apron is damaged). It can be made removable using Dzus or similar type connectors, this is usually done by racers who need to pull the engine more often or more quickly. Otherwise, drop it out the bottom like everyone else said.
Jacking the car up high in the rear and or removing a rear wheel will help you get the engine out from under the car once it is removed. _________________ In pursuit of superior handling!
SuperBeetlesOnly.com
VeeDub Parts Unlimited
Topline Parts |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ricekooker Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2006 Posts: 1788 Location: Winter Park, FL
|
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for all of the replies, it's nice to have some helpful comments than the "you should already know" ones. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
68IHscout Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2010 Posts: 3122 Location: santa ana ca
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
This seems easy enough , old thread but the info its worth its weight in gold . |
|
Back to top |
|
|
71beigeSB Samba Member
Joined: February 05, 2012 Posts: 96 Location: Gun Barrel City, TX
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:11 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Found out my apron was riveted on. Drilled them out & off it came. Made get'n engine out easier as our jack wouldnt get body high enuff. _________________ The deeper I dig the Worse it gets.....
71 Super Beetle stock 1600 dp
rattle can Pink & Black |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiebug Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2011 Posts: 1227 Location: Webster, MA
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
71beigeSB wrote: |
Found out my apron was riveted on. Drilled them out & off it came. Made get'n engine out easier as our jack wouldnt get body high enuff. |
I found that putting blocks of wood on top of the jack gives great height or if you have an engine hoist you can lift it up with that. I used a fork lift |
|
Back to top |
|
|
68IHscout Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2010 Posts: 3122 Location: santa ana ca
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So how high must the back end be to remove motor from inderneath so it clears? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zombiebug Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2011 Posts: 1227 Location: Webster, MA
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
68IHscout wrote: |
So how high must the back end be to remove motor from inderneath so it clears? |
That depends do you have the shroud on? About 2 1/2 feet - 3 (max) feet with shroud on, 2 feet with it off. This is all approximate as I have never actually measured it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RDbugger Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2012 Posts: 157 Location: Sydney,Australia
|
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I pulled one off a 74 STD.You have to lift it until 3 holes on the jack stand is showing.Slide the jack stands with 3 holes showing under the rear torsion bar and drop her on them to sit.Makes sure you choke the front wheels and remove all the wire that come from the fire wall to the engine get them out of the way.Probably would be easier to have a removal rear apron modification done it would be a hell lot easier.Support the engine with your jack.After removing the bolts jostle her until you feel her slide down.Slide her down slowly on with your jack not too fast.Just nice and smooth. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
68IHscout Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2010 Posts: 3122 Location: santa ana ca
|
Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
Great , thanks for the info .. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mondshine Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2006 Posts: 2770 Location: The World's Motor Capital
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
jtgh Banned
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 364
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
jtgh Banned
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 364
|
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
video #4 , IS GOOD ! justkampers... you can see he is at 24" clearly.!
i used 24" at tail end of car , today.
no problems. going in.
see my 2x6 board, at the Y on the frame.
key points:
gen pulley off (save key is an envelope)
distributor out.
pull #4 and #2 spark plug caps ,so it dont get cracked.
remove the fuel line first to remove engine (pump to frame head)
when installing put that line on last. _________________ nobody. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
tcochr Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2014 Posts: 62 Location: Augusta, GA
|
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:22 pm Post subject: Rear wheel remove too...I just did it |
|
|
Reviving an old thread...Sorry.
I just did all that the experts suggested, but my wimpy 2.5 ton jack stands weren't going to give me the 27.5" of lift between the ground and the bottom of the rear apron. I only got @ 22" between the grond and my apron. I could have removed the shroud, carb etc. but there had to be a more smarterer way to do this.
So, there I was, Engine down on a jack, resting comfortably with no way to get it out from underneath the car.
Then I saw the post about removing a rear wheel... Voila! slid out from the side with @ 2 " to spare.
New engine will go back in the same way after:
1. Install new rear shroud seal
2. Install new firewall seal (the top one)
3. Install new T/O bearing and Trans main seal
4. Install new busining on T/O Fork (the rebuild kt)
5. Install new rear trans Mounts
6. Install new front trans mount
7. Oh...Clean up the engine bay and paint some POR-15 on the metal to keep it from becoming a rust bucket before starting on #1-#6 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|