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Ghia side moulding kit
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joe comfort
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 11:14 pm    Post subject: Ghia side moulding kit Reply with quote

Which 12 piece side moulding kit do you recommend? I heard you have to be careful with some kits as they will show "a dimple" from the plastic snaps underneath when installed. Thanks!
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70 140
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought one that came with a WCM (West Coast Metric) sticker on the box. I carefully put it together. There are no dimples on mine.
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kubilus1
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any tips for aligning this trim kit if some moron covered up all the mounting holes?
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joe comfort
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the holes welded closed? Check from inside, maybe just covered with bondo.
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70 140
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you pull of the interior door panel you can see the backs of all of the holes. If they were welded shut you will need to make a jig up and re-drill them. If they were bondo'd up can just punch the filler back out.

If you pull the rear interior panel you can see down to the holes. If you take the mud plates off the front you can see a few of the holes. As long as you can get a few holes on each section you should be able to find the rest with a level and a measure.
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I purchased a set from KGP&R but later saw a Stainless Steel set from ISP West. It made me wish I installed them instead. Very Nice Exclamation
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KGCoupe
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

70 140 wrote:
If you pull of the interior door panel you can see the backs of all of the holes. If they were welded shut you will need to make a jig up and re-drill them. If they were bondo'd up can just punch the filler back out.

If you pull the rear interior panel you can see down to the holes. If you take the mud plates off the front you can see a few of the holes. As long as you can get a few holes on each section you should be able to find the rest with a level and a measure.


Mind you, I have never performed any kind of body work, but I would think that "punching" it out from the inside may cause a section of bondo larger than the actual hole diameter to pop off the outer surface of the door. Then you might end up with paint damage to repair before you can mount the trim.

Would it be better to remove the excess bondo on the inside of the door with a sharp chisel first, and then (when you can see the original hole size clearly) drill it clean from the inside out. Wouldn't it also be a good idea to touch up any raw metal edges exposed by drilling prior to mounting the trim to prevent any corrosion from spreading out from the holes? Just a thought.
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lonotch
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingkarmann wrote:
I purchased a set from KGP&R but later saw a Stainless Steel set from ISP West. It made me wish I installed them instead. Very Nice Exclamation


I wish they made the stainless steel trim for low-lights Crying or Very sad
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thefabulousnip
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone bought and installed the stainless side mouldings? I'll probably be buying some soon, but I'd just like to know of any complaints or compliments.
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joe comfort
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ISP West has the stainless on their on-line catalog, but they are on back order and it is unknown when they will get them. Probably never by what I was told.
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s1oww
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the side trims different on low lights?

wheres best to get them from if they are?
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lonotch
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1oww wrote:
Are the side trims different on low lights?

wheres best to get them from if they are?


The front four pieces on low-lights are longer due to the shape of the front fender.
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HouseofGhia
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KGCoupe wrote:
70 140 wrote:
If you pull of the interior door panel you can see the backs of all of the holes. If they were welded shut you will need to make a jig up and re-drill them. If they were bondo'd up can just punch the filler back out.

If you pull the rear interior panel you can see down to the holes. If you take the mud plates off the front you can see a few of the holes. As long as you can get a few holes on each section you should be able to find the rest with a level and a measure.


Mind you, I have never performed any kind of body work, but I would think that "punching" it out from the inside may cause a section of bondo larger than the actual hole diameter to pop off the outer surface of the door. Then you might end up with paint damage to repair before you can mount the trim.

Would it be better to remove the excess bondo on the inside of the door with a sharp chisel first, and then (when you can see the original hole size clearly) drill it clean from the inside out. Wouldn't it also be a good idea to touch up any raw metal edges exposed by drilling prior to mounting the trim to prevent any corrosion from spreading out from the holes? Just a thought.


Another issue to consider when the holes are bondo'd over is that even after redrilling the holes, the metal thickness combined with the bondo thickness, may be too much overall thickness for the plastic clips to attach properly. The metal clips may have more room for error in this type of scenerio....
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found that if I sighted just right down the side panels, I could still see where the holes were. If possible, I would recommend punching the holes from the outside.

I used the KGP&R moldings. They looked good and there was no problem with the plastic clips.

Could you see some dimples in a certain light? Yes but I didn't have a show car.
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