Cugir's Square

[cugir]

My original thread was lost in TheSamba crash of 07.

This thread continues the progress of my 69 Squareback

The car I didn't buy thanks to the good advice from folks here. It had 2000cc Empi heads, not running and is still for sale for $3000.

My new squareback sitting in front of the PO's house

Unmolested original engine runs good with complete Fuel Injection.

dents and rust in the front fender

rust and fungis

better than whats underneath

hello, who's there? oh, it's the darkside calling




Link

first night driving

[cugir]

driving home from the PO's house

checking the samba

new tires are top of the list

new tires falken ziex 195

[cugir]

I've been working on my car the past couple days and have the 30,000 mostly complete.

New plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, points, condenser, 5-50 syntec, lube front end, lube and tighten hood latch.
Set valves to .006, set dwell to 46*, set idle to 850, timing 0*TDC. Test drive and recheched all engine.
Checked shocks, replace steering damper, replace both fuel filters, and..

Test drove between each repair and everything was running better than ever.

Yesterday I installed the shifter bushing and snap ring as well as the bushings at the rear of the shift linkage. I also installe a short throw shift plate that night. I left it on the jacks overnight and finally drove it tonite.

There is a new noise that has me concerned.
I let it warm up then drove away. My first time on the brakes I heard a terrible grinding sound in the rear of the car. It sounded like rust on the brakes or something but even worse. A definate metal on metal grinding noise.

I drove slowly around the hood using the brakes to try and grind it away but no luck.

It happens when coming to a stop, right at the end before stopping. It happens in all gears and even in neut with the clutch off.
It does not happen if the car is turned off and the brakes are used to stop the car.
It seems to grind even after the car has stopped, just for a micro second.

I'm not even convinced it's grinding but possibly a gurgling that sounds as angry as a grind.

The only thing changed since the noise is the shift bushings and short shift.

There was an incident where the shift lnkage got stuck against something in the tunnel during the bushing install. Not sure if I bumbed a gurgle hose or what.

Any suggestions?


I also have some other questions below.
I'm searching now but any input is welcome.

SInce removing my carpet to clean, I notice a lot more gear noise coming from the tunnel area, in all gears, or when the clutch is pushed in.
Is this noise normal for an old car? can I use any old 80w-90 hypoid oil when doing the gearbox or do I need a name brand?


My fuel pump make a constant humm/whine while the engine is running. Is this normal or is it going out maybe?


My left flashers do not work in either hazard or left turn. Any quick ideas where to check first?


There is a hose coming from the black box rear of the air filter. It looks like it should go to the air filter but there is a plug in the air filter. When plugging it in the car runs rough then equalizes. There is a lot of exhaust or something coming out of this hose. What is this hose and where should it be. (hose shown pointing rear and down in pic)

Where do I get a wrench to change the generator pulley?


Is the "X" shape indent in the oil pan 1/4" high and there to help determine if the level is right?


When I disconnect the vacum advance hose, nothing happens. The bently says the engine speed should change when this is done. Is my vacum thing busted maybe? WHen I do the vacum check by putting my finger over the hose after turning the advance, it does not fully return to the original position, almost, but not fully returned.


Will Corvette shocks on my to-be shortened rear end make my car go faster?



What are these?

<---- heads off to search

[JSMskater]

those plastic plugs in the picture i *think* go in the holes for adjusting the stars in the rear brake drums.

as far as the grinding noise goes, check to see that ur E-brake isnt partially on. another thing to check is ur idle, i know my FI motor makes a grinding noise at very low idle, ie when you are braking, the FI TVS and MAP adjust from full load enrichment to idle, and there is a split second pause while it finds the right idle, perhaps it dips down too low and gives you this grinding noise.

removing the carpet will make you hear alot of road noise and things, unless it sounds REALLY loud i wouldnt worry about it too much. to be safe, remove the 17mm hex plug in the side of the tranny and check the level. it should be level with the bottom of the hole. if it isnt, add some. personally, id change it all in one shot.

the pump noise should be a low hum, if you can hear it while driving and accelerating maybe its a bit loud but doesnt sound like itd dying to me. at idle you can/should def hear it.

check your fuses for your flashers, could be the bulbs too. also, i have to look at the wiring diagram, but i think there is a T connection where the two sides of the flasher system go to one wire that goes to the fuse box. mine is notoriously loose and falls out sometimes, i think its a black/green wire trio. check to see that they havnt come loose.

that black box is the oil breather, and yes the tube should go to your air cleaner.

to check your vacuum advance, with the car off, take the hose end that attatches to the air distributor, and take off the dist. cap. suck on the end of the hose to create vaccum. you should see the little arm inside the dist. move. put ur tongue against the hole so that it holds the suction. it shouldnt revert to normal until you take your tongue away and allow the air back into the hose.

not sure what the "x" is youre talking about, and iv always just used a handy wrench i have in my garage, cant remember if its 19, 20 21 or 22 mm.
_________________
71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors

[cugir]

I meant to say the X is in the bottom of the air filter, where you add the oil. I just added oil till the X was submerged. This looked abouth 1/4" as I think the book called for.
Just wondring if that's what it's for.

[cugir]

I'll post a vid of the noise.

[JSMskater]

not sure, if mine had an x, its long since worn away. i always fill it to just under the lip around the edge.
_________________
71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors

[cugir]

The vacum advance looks good. Thanks for the tip.

Skater, where is that junction that comes loose in the wiring for the flashers?

The PO did quite a job on the wires, I think.

Still waiting for youtube

[cugir]

The noise





Link

[67stang302]

I wouls start by pulling your rear brake drums. This is really easy just remove the rear tires and the there is an allen bolt holding the drum centered on the hub remove that bolt and then you may have the back off the rear brake shoes and then check for debry in the drum or if you have any brake show left.

As for the gear oil use only GL-4 gear oil!
or redline MT-90

that is all the syncros like
_________________

[SquareTone]

Cugir,
You've got several issues in that engine compartment:
1) The black hose you mentioned should connect to a return tube at the bottom of the oil filler tube. If your filler tube doesn't have that connection then you should try to get hold of what they call a road draft tube - it's like a one-way valve for the breather.
2) What should be connected to the air cleaner is a hose from the Auxilliary Air Regulator (the little doohickey just right of the distributor). It's probably disconnected because the AAR wasn't working right. They can usually be cleaned up and adjusted.
3) You have a plastic fuel filter on a 30psi line right above a hot engine. That's a real handy spot for it, but I wouldn't put one there.
4) The rubber connecters between the air distributor and the intake runners are probably shrunk up and leaking vacuum. Easily fixed with 8 cheap hose clamps.
5) Your cooling air bellows seems to be torn up. Replace it ASAP.
6) You can make a plug for the timing hole in the shroud with a cheap tapered rubber plug. It's a small thing, but you're still pulling hot air through that hole.

And yes, it's well known that putting anything from a Corvette on any car will make it faster. Of course it will also double the cost of any parts you buy from that time forward.
_________________
Tony
'70 Fastback AT/FI (daily driver (exept when the starter won't work, or it's out of gas, or I don't go anywhere, ...))

"...it is a well known fact, that those people who most want to rule people are, ipso facto, those least suited to it."
Help Improve TheSamba

[JSMskater]

[SquareTone]

[JSMskater]

[KTPhil]

It's only the later (72/73?) models that have more air cleaner hose attachments, for the valve covers.

[cugir]

I'm pretty sure I only have 2 inputs on the air cleaner, neither were hooked up when I bought it.

The oil breather tube was just pointing down and belching smoke and stink into the area. The hole in the air clener for this hose has a small plasic plug in it to seal it. It looks as tho someone left it off intentionally.

Is there a valid (or invalid) reason to leave the oil breather hose disconnected?


The AAR hose is missing but the same type of plugs were used at both terminated connections (if the AAR hose goes where I think it goes).

What does the AAR do and should I get it running again?

Here is a pic of how I imagine the hoses go. Is this correct?

What should I do about the plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment. I just replaced the white square one up front. Should I replace this one with a metal version or move it to a safer spot and leave it plastic?



Also,

I FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE NOISE!!

I sat in the engine compartment while a friend drove and discovered the noise is a gurgling from the oil filler. I removed the cap and put my ear up to it and it was clear and loud gurgling.

I'll have to check the level again but does this noise mean too much oil or something else? It was a little high but between te marks on the stick.

I still plan to do all brakes soon though.

Also, the X on the air filter bottom is the same as the one on the top. I'm talking about the indention. You can see it in my engine pic.

I'll have to reread but I think my oil in my air filter is way too low.

[Tram]

Your air hose routing to the aircleaner is correct.

GET RID OF THAT FUEL FILTER. The fuel filter should be up front under the car by the pump. It's a square one.

That fuel filter in the engine bay doesn't even look like a high pressure FI filter.

The gurgling means your oil pump is working.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[JSMskater]

i would suggest replacing all the fuel lines at some point, but for now replace the section that has the little .99 fuel filter so that it's one peice.

im still fiddling with my AAR. i know one of the ones i have is probably broken beyond use, it sucks air no matter what you have it adjusted to. im currently in the process of dialing it in so it works properly, so you can follow my thread to see if yours is working or not as well. for now, it should be ok to have it plugged temporarily, but it was there for a reason.
_________________
71 Squareback-FI -- 73 Bay (subaru powered)
TOOB Member #3
I make D-jet FI connectors

[SquareTone]

[cugir]