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Anyone Know the Offset of Stock 15" Mercedes e320 Wheel
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know that this is off track of the main theme of this thread, but if you are looking for a truly bolt on Mercedes wheel, look for a set of

***THESE***

They will bolt on without spacers and I have heard that people run them using the stock lugs and studs with no problems.
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Crankey
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

those are even pritty nice looking with that lip. way better than the stock alloys.
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slunk33
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are pretty nice. Wish money was not object, but damn if it is...
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Surfalia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently put 15" benz alloys with an ET of 49 on my '87 syncro with no spacers, no rubbing and as far as I can tell no problems. I have driven it over 2000 miles so far since I put them on. The ride and handling is great and I don't know and haven't heard anyone say there is a downside to running a much higher or lower than stock ET. I guess staying as close to the original is probably best. Does a higher ET give you a narrower footprint and vica versa?? I don't know. Is it better to have a wider footprint like you get from a lower ET than stock?? So many questions so little time Smile
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slunk33
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These sound like questions for.... Loogy!
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surfalia wrote:
I recently put 15" benz alloys with an ET of 49 on my '87 syncro with no spacers, no rubbing and as far as I can tell no problems.


Yeah, on a Syncro, you can get away with a higher ET than you can on a 2WD.

Surfalia wrote:
Does a higher ET give you a narrower footprint and vica versa??


Wheel offset starts at zero. Zero is when the wheel mounting surface is exactly in line with the centerline of the wheel rim. If you want a narrower track (or foot print), you increase the POSITIVE offset. The more you increase the positive offset, the narrower your track will get. Starting again at zero offset, if you want a wider track, you increase the NEGATIVE offset. This pushes the wheels further outboard. So a wheel with a 20mm positive offset will sit further inboard (narrower foot print) than a wheel with a 20mm negative offset (wide foot print). Now of course there is everything in between. For example, if you start with a 49mm offset and you want to increase the track width, you can reduce the positive offset by adding spacers or changing to wheels with a numerically smaller positive offset. If you get to zero offset and that's not enough for you, you start entering the negative offset arena.

Surfalia wrote:
Is it better to have a wider footprint like you get from a lower ET than stock??


That depends on many things. If your looking for pure stability from say a Syncro while offroading, yes a wider track will help with that. On the road though, it is best to stay within a certain range so that the wheel offset does not start working against the suspension geometry. I personally like to keep the offset within what the factory felt was a reasonable range, 30mm-39mm.
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Last edited by Christopher Schimke on Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Surfalia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess I will be looking to get rid of my ET49's and get my ET closer to stock. Sad
Do you know what the stock ET is on a Syncro?
thanks for the info Loogy
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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be really honest, I wouldn't start looking for new wheels if you like the ones that you have on there. If you add a 20mm H&R bolt on spacer, your effective ET will drop to 29mm which is plenty close enough to the stock 2wd ET.

I'll check into the stock Syncro ET and let you know.

EDIT: According to Syncro.org, the stock Syncro steel wheels, 14" or 16", had a 30mm offset.
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Surfalia
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Chris Very Happy
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slunk33
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the magic of Adobe Photoshop, this is what my 87 GL would look like with those rims:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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slunk33
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And what it'd look like if I went with the Audi A6 rims, I kind of like the look of the Mercedes better, though.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Johnagon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I said I'd fill you in on what it took me to install my Mercedes mags. The lug holes were 12mm and had to be opened to accept a 14mm stud. I did this using a piloted reamer that I had made. If I didn't have access to get that, I would have used the closest drill bit to 14.5 mm. I'm pretty sure that I used....... 35mm..... stud bolts from http://www.eurosportacc.com/hr_wheel_bolts_studs.htm. Part number; 1453502 14 X 1.5 35 Mercedes Ball 17mm $2.95 Each. They can be a bit too long it's ok,because the hub is really deep. I bought spacers locally for about $5 or $10 each. I needed at least 15mm - 20mm. Ended up using 16mm to clear the steering components. But the wheel just clears. As for the back wheels I used 16mm spacers also, to clear the damn hubs and keep the center caps on. The studs in the rear are porsche. Part Number:911 331 671 00 Extra Long wheel stud for Bus 71-79 (from German supply), "needed when using some alloy wheels". I Googled the part number and got them from www.dartauto.com. I think they were around $85 shipped. I drifted out the old ones and knocked in the new ones with ease using a real "car" hammer and big block of wood to back up the hub. They fit perfect. Oh ya the hub. It has to come off to change the studs. 46mm nut, remember that size. It's on really tight if you haven't already heard. REALLY TIGHT !! I did it with a force bar and cheater pipe. No problems. Then I needed to get some Ball seat lug nuts for the rear and got them from http://www2.cip1.com/default.asp. They knocked me back(the studs) about $5 or $6 a set. All the places gave decent to good or better service as far as comunication and speed of delivery. I'd go shopping with them all again. If you ask me it's worth the time and money. Wheels make the car. Go for it ....!!
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