Good Door Latch Trick, or No?

[jazzed]

I've got a latch on the driver's door of my '66 that opens fine from the outside, but not from the inside unless I give it a good shoulder when releasing the latch. A local repair shop suggested that I simply remove the bar between the interior handle and the latch and shorten the bar as little as 1/8" (he suggested I use two pairs of vise grips and some wrist action to accomplish the shortening). Just wanted to run this idea past you Samba experts before I wind up with a bad latch and a bad bar.

[Clara]

try this:

Open the door.
Move the claw on the door mechanism to the vertical (latched shut) position, you may need to use a pair of pliers.
Push the outside door button.
The claw should snap open with enthusiam and vigor.

Move the latch back to the closed position.
Pull the inside handle to 'open the door'
The claw should snap open with enthusiam and vigor.

If the claw has the same lame action using both handles, you have a sticky door mechanism. Did you know that your bus loves grease? well it does. That poor thing is crying out for grease and some yahoo is suggesting you bend and twist it. For Shame!
Grease Grease Grease

Best to remove the door mechansim, clean it up with solvent and a old toothbrush, then oil and grease it, work the moving parts till you get good action. You can go the quick and dirty way by spraying PB blaster or your penetrating oil of choice in there, and then using an oil can, poking grease in there. WD-40 evaporates, leaving no lube. Moving parts need lube.

If it works well with the outside handle (good snapping to attention), but not with the inner, you can adjust the angle of the inner door handle mechaism byloosening the two screws that hold it on, turning it slightly, and snugging the screws down. I don't remember which way to turn it, which ever way makes it pull a little more I probably counterclockwise)
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The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[jazzed]

Thanks, Clara. After getting no snap on either the driver or passenger doors, I wound removing the latch assemblies, cleaning and greasing them as you suggested. They work perfectly and I'm glad I didn't take the advice of the VW Shop Owner (who shall remain nameless as he was just trying to help). In addition to both assemblies being very dry, they were both gunked up with paint where my body guy sprayed into the outside handle holes; also, the large spring on the drivers side had dis-engaged (though that might have happened when I removed it).
Hopefully they won't need to be greased for another 42 years!

[Scandell]

Im having the same problems with my two doors. I will buy an oil can...and get to fixing it tonight.
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"Come on over...and we can work on it together."

[jazzed]

As Clara mentions, be sure to use some grease. It will last longest, though it will mean removing the latches.

[Stocknazi]

don't take any advice from the shop that recommended bending your linkage rod. those door mechanisms get neglected in there. mmmm grease.
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WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."

Thomas Jefferson

[Clara]

VW says to oil your hinges every 1200 miles.
At least do it every tune-up.
And you may want to oil/lube the cargo door, rear hatch and engine lid mechanisms too. (and the gas pedal linkage moving parts)
Lightly grease all striking plates & mechanism tongues for smoother door closing.

mmmm... where's a link to the VW recommended lube service details?
_________________
The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[Scandell]

Well...i bought some grease from Pep Boys...and lubed up my door locks, handles, and hinges. ALL IS WORKING WELL NOW! My door handles are loose and quick-acting.
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"Come on over...and we can work on it together."

[Nitty]

I just get verve and panache . . .