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STUCK oil pressure relief valve?
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alphaskate69
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 5:42 pm    Post subject: STUCK oil pressure relief valve? Reply with quote

I am trying to break in my NEW 1776cc in my 66 bus with a remote oil filter.

When I started the engine, the oil filter blew open at the mounting base. I assume this is due to too much pressure as the result of a stuck oil pressure relief valve? (from the info I have gathered)

The engine has a 30mm oil pump. When I changed the oil filter out to stop the leak, I noticed oil leaking from the rear(rear of car) oil pressure relief valve.

HOW do I take apart the relief valve and find out what is causing this problem. Also, how do I fix it? Thanks
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the 30mm pump is your problem.

Remove the pressure control piston by removing the cap with a large screwdriver. The spring and piston should come out.

Are you using OEM springs or aftermarket? The aftermarket ones are too stiff.
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rterfert
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And get rid of that Fram filter?? Surprised Laughing

What kind of filter are you using??

After you remove the BIG screw, remove the spring/plunger......artr it's unstuck your oil should run out Surprised put your parts back in and test run it.


Last edited by rterfert on Fri Nov 16, 2007 9:05 pm; edited 2 times in total
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil Piston Puller.
I do not like the 30mm pump with a new mag case(aluminum is ok)
Oil filters:
Mann for brake in (no by-pass)
HP1 for street cars
Wix for race cars.
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alphaskate69
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am running the Fram ph8a. It is the same as the HP-1. The case is an as-41 case. The longblock was built by G. Serranos whom is out of buisness now...so they are no help.

Should I Change out oil pumps?

What do you mean by no bypass. How would I unhook the filter to break it in?
This is my first new engine... so please be thorough and I will greatly apprectiate it.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless it's a race engine, ditch the 30mm pump, and go 26mm.
When he says 'no bypass', he's talking about the valve that 90 percent of filters have that passes the oil around the filter element at a certain pressure (not much). It's supposed to allow oil to reach the engine in case of a completely clogged filter element, but it also opens at first startup when the oil is thick. That's why you want one without bypass, so your new engine gets only 100 percent clean oil for it's first run.

I'm using the Geers filter, so I know 100 percent of my oil is filtered. That thing is a tank!
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SRP1
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alphaskate69 wrote:
I am running the Fram ph8a. It is the same as the HP-1.
Should I Change out oil pumps?



IMO leave the 30mm pump; despite what others may say that is not your problem, you can blow a filter apart with a 26mm pump as easily as a 30mm pump when the oil is cold. The Fram PH-8A and the HP-1 are not the same filters, basically the PH8A is not capable of sustaining higher oil pressures the HP-1 is.
Oil pressure on a full flow system between the oil pump and the filter does not have any type of regulator valve, and your stock relief valves do nothing between those two points. So when the oil is cold it will have a harder time flowing threw the filter, if your filter can’t handle the pressure it will usually collapse and or blow out, simple as that. When the oil is hot it flows threw as normal.
Install a HP-1 or I prefer a Wix 5151R and your troubles will be gone. Another option is to install a Gene Berg full flow pump cover, which has a relief valve in it to help control oil filter pressure in a full flow system and it works very well, but you still need to run a quality filter.
Now if for some reason you have hi oil pressure concerns when the oil is up to operating temperature and feel the pump is causing this, you only need to decrease the oils viscosity, which will in tern benefits flow, lubrication, cooling etc, as well as maintain a decent idle oil pressure.
Hope this helps and makes sense to you.
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Towel Rail
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next time try using a heat lamp under your sump so the break-in oil is already thinned out and closer to operating temp.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you have it, keep the 30mm pump. Ditch the Fram and use a quality filter, I prefer Wix. I have never had a problem with Wix filters.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lostinbaja wrote:
Since you have it, keep the 30mm pump. Ditch the Fram and use a quality filter, I prefer Wix. I have never had a problem with Wix filters.

At $35 for a new pump... get a 26mm.

Bigger isn't always better.
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A.J.Sims
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Key word "New motor"
I would not ues a Wix filter on a New, fresh brake in motor.
start with a Mann filter or that style then move up to the Wix on your first oil change if you like.
Now i run Wix filters but not on new motors as i want to filter all the oil on a new motor. This is what a rep from Wix informed me of at the last SEMA show. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
lostinbaja wrote:
Since you have it, keep the 30mm pump. Ditch the Fram and use a quality filter, I prefer Wix. I have never had a problem with Wix filters.

At $35 for a new pump... get a 26mm.

Bigger isn't always better.


Isn't that the truth! I solved alot of my excessive oil pressure problems by changing my 30mm pump and installing a 26mm pump.

Also, Fram sucks. I use a K&N.
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alphaskate69
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What model of Mann filter? What model of Wix? Thanks
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SRP1
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wix:5151R
Another filter I have used a lot of lately and will start to recommend on a full flow system is the K&N HP-3001 which can be found at most local auto parts stores. I have a few thousand race miles logged onto that filter now and it has been flawless.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill out the pressure relief holes in the case that drain to the sump and your 30mm pump will be fine. It works.
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alphaskate69
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does that mean??? Drill out what??? I don't want to do case work. I just want to know how to stop the filter from blowing... so that I can start my engine and break it in. I AM NEW. Please be descriptive. thanks
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Jimmy111
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just change to the Wix. The Fram will blow every time . If you got to just remove the screw that holds the spring and piston in and see if you can remove the piston. If it moves it is ok.
If you have an extra spring. Just cut a 1/4 inch off your spring and reinstall it. It will reduce the pressure. Just remember to put the full length one back after.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The real problem is that the bleed off hole that bypasses back into the case is about 3/16" dia. That's fine for a stock oil pump turning at stock RPMs but get a big pump and spin it 50% faster and there is no possible way that tiny hole can bypass that much volume. The case has to be open to drill it out so that might not be the answer for you, but for those of you still building...
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the latest HVWs on page 83, the pic in the lower left has an arrow pointing to the pressure relief hole that needs to be enlarged.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a different Filter than the Fram, Get a Gene Berg cover, and use a thinner oil.
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