Newb Question: HOw do you get the window frames out??

[draginwagen]

I know its a newb question but this is my first bus and i dont know much. But how do i get the Front door window frames out?
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1964 Beetle
1969 Bay Window Camper

[campingbox]

Two phillips screws on the rear edge of the door, two bolts on the front of the door, two more bolts on the inside of the door, and two 6mm nuts under the door frame. Then lift straight up while the door is open.

[SurfCityRacing]

There are 2 13mm bolts behind 2 plastic plugs on the edge of the door and 2 more under the door panel.

Underneath the frame, up inside the door there are 2 10mm nuts on studs. Lube them up, they have a tendency break off.

Then on the back edge of the door there are 2 big philips screws. Impact screwdriver may be needed.
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[stevo96]

Hi Guys

is it possible to remove the window frames without removing the door??

[iamdonquixote]

[Clara]

[Eric&Barb]

You really need to get a Bentley reprint of the original VW dealer workshop manual.

1955-1962:

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=canonical&q=wolfsburg+west+vw+parts&ia=web

1963-1967:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=book4

Yes, expensive at first glance, but worth every cent.

You can find them used in the classifieds now and then for much less or other places online like Ebay.
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[BonTonRoulet]

Long time lurker here mining all the good info in getting my 66 Standard Microbus back on the road. I'll introduce myself and my bus in the very near future, however, having recently gone through the process of removing my front door window frame assemblies, let me add one, ok, two things...

1) I would highly suggest that after you remove all the bolts, screws and nuts that fasten the entire window frame assembly to the top of the door and begin to lift it off the top of the door---what hasn't been pointed out yet is that the lower channel of the window frame, under the glass that supports the glass when you remove the entire frameis connected to the legs of the frame inside the door by 4 very small screws, washers and nuts. You can only access them when the frame is out of the door. However, these 4 critical fasteners may have either rusted and fallen out of place or a previous owner may have not replaced them last time the frame assemblies were out of the door. Bottom line: Highly recommend you put a few strips of duct tape on your two window glass pieces---the fixed window and the sliding window---and loop the tape over the top of the frame to hold the glass in place when you remove the frames. Trust me on this one. Heaving up on the frame assembly only to have your two large pieces of glass teetering on the edge of disaster is NOT where you want to be! Because I've recently been there!

2) If you'll notice in the photo above, there is a hole in the side of the door frame between the 2 vertical bolts near the door handle. There is a matching hole in the window frame. Once you get the frame back in place, you can use that hole to place either a long punch or Phillips head screwdriver to lever the frame down just that little bit to compress the seal that fits atop the door between the frame and the top of the door so things will fit well.

Good luck, don't drop your window glass!

[DubStyle]

[BarryL]

[earlywesty]

[BonTonRoulet]

I think you are correct after looking at photos of front doors from the classified section. Looks like the hole between the bolts is a 64-67 thing.

[Clara]

Duct tape residue is horrible.
I strongly recommend against using it on your bus. It is bad for the paint.

If you feel like your frames might come apart, I suggest using something other than duct tape to secure them. Blue painter's tape?
I haven't had them come apart, but understand it could happen.

[Thompson2]

Side question - Aside from the seal that goes around the vent wing (which I've heard is very challenging), are the rest of the felts and the seals relatively easy to do?

I'm working through window seals as they are mostly original and leaking. I wouldn't mind also getting rid of the rattle of the cab door windows if it's not going to turn into a week long project or a bunch of cussing... there's plenty of other ways to fill the swear jar.

Thanks!

[EverettB]

I've done everything but the vent wings several times and they were all pretty easy except for running the seal along the top channel around the door top frame.

I usually have to clean the entire channel out really well, then use lots of lube to get it to slide through.

Pic from a very long time ago

I also like to work with glass on a bare concrete floor because that's super smart and safe

The last one I did the door top was installed in the door and it seemed easier.
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[Thompson2]

[BonTonRoulet]

As for duct tape residue on paint, I didn't think about that since my frames were nothing but rusty looking patina. I imagine most are these days. A bit of WD-40 on a paper towel would clean it up nicely. The main point of the suggestion was don't find yourself in a bind when the frame comes out without the lower channel and your 2 large pieces of window glass hit the floor.

As for the rubber seal that fits around the outer perimeter of the window frame assembly, make sure you use a tool to clean the metal channels where it fits, and unless you are really tall or want to stand on a stool or the sorts, I found it a lot easier to do this job on the ground. A bit of Sil-Glyde (NAPA) wiped in the channels and a thin wipe of the seal, grab the rubber with a pair of vice grips about 1" from the end and pull it through. If it gets tight, stop and grab the tight section with your hand and pull it towards the end with the vice grips. I started from the front and pulled it over the less than 90 degree corner first before the 90 degree corner at the top rear of the assembly. If you are concerned about using vice grips latched to the rubber to pull it around.....the rubber pieces I used were sourced from WCM in 1994 and spent the last 26 years on a shelf, in a storage room attached to a carport.

Now, as to those vent wing seals that fit in the frame, that's a task all to its own and I found it easier to do those with the frame temporarily attached to the top of the door and before the outer perimeter seal. Liberal use of blue painters tape on my newly powder coated frames around the seal and the frame as it was seated was the trick. As for the tool to do this job poking, jabbing and slipping that inner seal into the grooves of the frame and getting the outer lip of the seal to seat nicely on the outer edge of the frames, I turned to my favorite "Go to tools" being various sizes of RC model airplane nylon propellers. A whole lot of places on the old bus that the model airplane propellers get the job done. Want to get that old weather stripping out of the channel around the doors and cargo doors without scratching the paint and encouraging rust? The prop is your friend! Greasy gunk of gear oil, motor oil and dirt from 55 years on the transmission frame horns? Grab a prop!

[Busstom]

Tape from a $5 roll of duck tape will leave residue. Tape from a $23 dollar roll of duct tape will not.