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Cargo Door Handle Lock Question
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The Gnome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:38 am    Post subject: Cargo Door Handle Lock Question Reply with quote

Does anyone have a diagram or tech drawing of how the lock mechanism (tumbler and lock pin) in the cargo door handle works? My bus is a 65 and I cannot get the cargo door handle to lock or unlock from the outside using the key. I had new keys cut by Gabriel's and the codes match. The key works on all my other doors but I cannot seem to get the cargo lock to turn.

I've cleaned the handle, soaked everything with PB Blaster for 24 hours, removed the tiny screw that holds the tumbler and can even get the little lock pin to move a bit. No matter what I do the key will not turn and the tumbler won't come out so I have no idea what is wrong with the internals and why they won't work. Anyone have any hints or ideas? My next plan is to try using heat to see if it frees up. Could the cut of the key be wrong or could the tumbler have been changed out of the handle so maybe the code is wrong (the key does go all the way into the lock without a problem)? Any help is appreciated and I've already searched the forums.
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bmx2c4me
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did he rekey your lock cylinders or just cut keys to the code? Sounds like someone replaced the cargo door cylinder, or it was rusted with a key in it at some point.
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The Gnome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He just cut keys to my code. I had the original key when I got the bus but it broke from being rusty. I'm thinking that someone replaced the tumbler maybe but I really would like to know what the inside of the lock pin area looks like.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I realize that now, after re-reading.

Be happy you have a T-code handle in good shape. Smile

You may have to send the handle to Gabe or another VW key guy and try other keys with similar lock codes. I don't think the cylinder will come out if any of the wafers aren't in the "resting" position.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had to gently heat the handle for my 61, but the actual pin was fairly rusty. yours looks like it is in awesome shape. are you trying to work the handle lock with it removed? if you have the door eschushion installed upside down the handle lock will not work when you install it in the door.
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The Gnome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I'll try heating it up today to see if I can make it move. The lock pin is all clean and I can tap it lightly with a punch and it moves a bit. I'm trying to get the lock to work out of the door with the collar removed. I've also tried it in the door with the pin and collar lined up correctly. How far out does the pin actually move and does it come out of both sides of the handle or only on the side with the screw?
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It only comes out on one side approx 4-5mm or so.

I can't imagine a handle that looks that good has a rusted lock cylinder. Was it rechromed or anything?
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The Gnome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know which side the lock pin comes out from, the side with the key code and screw or the side without? I don't want to try tapping it out the wrong way. The handle is original to my bus and has not been rechromed from what I can tell.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't use a torch.
I would not tap the lock pin. I think that could possibly break the tip off the lock cylinder.
Insert key into lock. Wiggle key as you pull it back out. The cylinder should come with.
If this doesn't work, sprray penetrating oil down the lock where the key goes and repeat tomorrow.
The cylinder should just slide out now that you have the little screw out. That's been the tricky part for me.
When you take the cylinder out the little wafers can pop out unless you have a key in the cylinder. Careful!

Oh, the cylinder should come out fine even w/o a key, or with the wrong key in the cylinder.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Clara. I wondered if the tumbler would come out of the handle without the key. I've tried it with the right key, the wrong key and even a small screwdriver and pick (being very gentle) and it still won't come out. I'll try soaking everything again and hope that it loosens up. Can you explain how the tumbler works the lock pin? That part I don't know until I can get it all apart.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is a offset post on the end of the tumbler assembly that slides the pin back and forth as it rotates. once the small set screw is out the barrel slides out of the handle key or no key. the locking pin then can simply be tapped out from either direction. once out polish it up and it should be good.
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The Gnome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks for the info. I have everything soaking in PB Blaster again until tomorrow and I'll try to get the tumbler out again. I hope the damn thing comes out this time.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i might need to clarify that when i used a torch to loosen my handle pin it was rusty and i only heated it enough to put some heat in it; you don't want to melt the potmetal. i also used generous amounts of pb blaster.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've a similar problem...
I ve 2 L code 67 keys from gabriel, all work greatly but the po changed the cargo door handle with a 65 so i have to change the cylinder.
What i have to do?
Only remove the little screw and get out the cylinder from the front of the handle?
Thanks in advance.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vitwagen wrote:
I've a similar problem...
I ve 2 L code 67 keys from gabriel, all work greatly but the po changed the cargo door handle with a 65 so i have to change the cylinder.
What i have to do?
Only remove the little screw and get out the cylinder from the front of the handle?
Thanks in advance.

done...
i 've the cylinder..
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got a couple of questions about the lock pin in the cargo door cylinder. I recently got a 66 bus and was putting the guts back in all the doors and noticed the cargo door lock mechanism didn't look complete. Searched on here and realized it's missing the square locking pin.

Question #1, Here is a pic of the cylinder. I think it's all intact, but since the square pin is missing, I just want to make sure what is shown is all there should be (ie...part of the tip isn't broken off is it???)
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Question #2, assuming the cylinder isn't broken, can I just buy a ratty junk handle at the swaps and use the block from it. I want to re-use my cylinder since it matches my other doors.

Question #3, Anybody got any pics of the square block removed from the cylinder? Is it just a square block? Does it have a hole that the end of the cylinder fits into, or does it just ride up and down on the end of the cylinder? I've read a few people say the cylinder has to be removed before the block will come out, so I'm guessing they are connected somehow.

Thanks for any and all replys!

Sad
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

#1. That look good. The tit is the cam that slides the pin in and out.

#2. Yes. The square ones are an improved version but you can't put a square peg in a round hole.

#3. Someone got a pic?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info! If anyone has a pic of the square pin, I'd still really like to see what one looks like.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somewhat related hijack:

Is anyone making the cargo door collars that the handle slides into?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KevinAlbrecht wrote:
Somewhat related hijack:

Is anyone making the cargo door collars that the handle slides into?

my original collar for my handle was so pitted it had no shine at all. since i had a collar off a rear hood t-handle for a beetle (63 and older) i used a dremel cutoff wheel to shorten the beetle collar to bus length. works fine and looks NOS in place.
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