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Oil Leaking from Sending Unit!
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ajbsd
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 4:19 pm    Post subject: Oil Leaking from Sending Unit! Reply with quote

Is there an easy fix to oil leaking from the sending unit? I have a stock 1600 DP that is just back on the road from a little time sitting and I can see oil dripping from the unit while the engine is running. Anyone?
Thanks
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on what leak is.... It its weeping from around insulator to base crimp you need to replace unit.... IF its weeping at threads you can probably just give it a bit of a turn to tighten it further....

Sealing tapes and sealers may keep unit from getting proper bround to engine case and make oil lamp operate erratic... So avoid them if at all possible...

Dale
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skeeter!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to make sure that you don't put the sender in too far-- I made that mistake once, just kept tightening it in because I thought you weren't supposed to have any exposed threads.

How have you sealed the threads? Did you use Loctite or anything? I use the removable Loctite on mine, and tighten it just until the unit gets tough to tighten.... the Loctite does the rest.
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's leaking from the sender, and not the threads, replace it before it cost you a motor. I lost a race this summer because my sender decided to start pissing oil out of it at the starting line. (The track guys shut me down when they noticed a stream of oil coming off my motor) I noticed it weeping earlier that day but figured i'd get to it later. When they decide to let go, they let go.

They're dirt cheap, change it out.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale M. wrote:
Sealing tapes and sealers may keep unit from getting proper bround to engine case and make oil lamp operate erratic... So avoid them if at all possible...

Dale


It still needs to be sealed. Rolling Eyes
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ajbsd
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the good advise, guys. I think I will go ahead and just replace the little bugger before it blows!
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hotrodvw wrote:
Dale M. wrote:
Sealing tapes and sealers may keep unit from getting proper bround to engine case and make oil lamp operate erratic... So avoid them if at all possible...

Dale


It still needs to be sealed. Rolling Eyes


Never used sealer yet, and mine do not leak....

Dale
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You must be wrenching on it pretty hard then. All tapered threads need sealant.
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skeeter!
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always used thread sealer... I was told a long time ago to NEVER use Teflon tape (the white thin stuff you use for plumbing), as it can deteriorate and work its way into the motor.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hotrodvw wrote:
You must be wrenching on it pretty hard then. All tapered threads need sealant.


would you care to elaborate on that statement please?

i don't use sealant on my oil pressure switch, and it does not leak. nor do my transmission drain/fill plugs or my steering box fill plug.

one thing i have seen is that currently produced oil pressure switches have shorter thread length than originals. even quality Hella ones are too short. i think you can bottom the switches out in the case before they make the proper seal.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off the sender is M10x1.0 and is not tapered like a 1/8" NPT.

Second there's a copper crush washer that goes under the sender.
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Rooy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
First off the sender is M10x1.0 and is not tapered like a 1/8" NPT.

Second there's a copper crush washer that goes under the sender.


It is M10x1 keg, which is a tapered thread. No crush washer; it seals on the threads.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Every switch I've seen in a VW case was tapered. If it was a parallel thread, it would prove evident. If it used a crush washer, it would thread in by hand with no need for a wrench. Never once have I seen a crush washer available for them, never once have I heard anyone else mention looking for one, needing one, losing one, or using one.

Hazetguy.....I suppose it's possible to tighten it enough so those fine threads seal w/o sealant, but it's not the 'correct' way to do it. The oil is under pressure, so it naturally would leak first. On the trans, the oil is thicker, and not under pressure. It's possible to make a seal, if it's just acting as a reservoir.....again, not the correct way to do it. All tapered threads need to be sealed. They seal on the threads alone, as it's tightened, the threads crush together. There's still a leak path present, thus the need for sealant to fill the void. I actually wish the port was parallel/straight thread 10mmx1.0......it would make things nicer I think.
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The Noof
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
First off the sender is M10x1.0 and is not tapered like a 1/8" NPT.

Second there's a copper crush washer that goes under the sender.


It IS tapered, as is our own npt.Just a different pitch.No gasket either.
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what pitch the threads are, but it is 1.0 I'm pretty sure. By pitch, I mean the angle of the threads......you can actually measure that too.
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