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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 12:01 pm Post subject: 30 PICT 2 Tuning |
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Hi everyone,
I'm sending out my H30/31 carb to be overhauled to fix a leaky bushing. In the interim, I'm putting on an old 30 PICT-2 I salvaged and rebuilt from an old, tired engine. The 30 isn't in great shape, but I need to get it working for at least a week or so until I get my refurbished 30/31 back. I did some looking around in the forums, but couldn't find any topics that managed to help me solve my issues (carb related that is). So I have the following two questions:
1. What are the correct initial settings for the throttle arm screw and the volume control screw?
I did find some anecdotal answers to these, but felt I should confirm them. For the throttle arm, I set it much like the recommendations for the 34 PICT-3: just touching the lowest step on the fast idle cam + 1/4 turn (90 degrees). This setting has the engine idling nicely during warmup but as soon as the choke opens fully and the throttle arm just comes off the fast idle cam, the engine starts to falter and leads me to adjusting the volume control screw. I tinkered with altering the throttle arm screw, but it didn't seem to help things any so it is currently left at the setting described above.
For the volume control screw, I initially set it at two turns out (once described as the "sweet spot" for a 30 PICT 2) and proceeded to vary it in or out, trying to get the car to idle without dying. I ended up at a full four turns out and managed to get the car idle for a minute or so, but it kind of petered out before dying. Further adjustments of the volume control screw (outward) would momentarily stabilize the idle, but within ten seconds, it would begin falter again. I've also experienced the car dying after deceleration which seems to be related So this leads to my next question.
2. What is an appropriate range of turns for the volume control screw? More specifically, how many turns outward before the screw no longer is effective? Since my carb won't idle for a prolonged period, it's hard for me to gage. Over four turns out seems like pretty far based on what I've read others being set at.
Relevant details: running a stock 1500 with the stock 205T distributor with new points. Dwell measures 48 degrees, timing is spot on at TDC, valves were adjusted to 0.006 at my last oil change (~1,000 miles ago). They haven't shown any tendency to wander over previous oil changes.
Thanks for any help and insight, folks.
Cheers.
EDIT:
I just took the Bug out for a drive (volume screw at 3 1/2 turns, throttle screw as described above) and found that it sputtered and backfired during acceleration in the lower RPM range of each gear. This means the volume screw is set to be too rich, correct? Low RPM = low throttle = low air = Too rich. Does that logic follow?
I also had to manually control the idle with the gas pedal each and every time I came to a stop. I am going to turn the volume control screw back down to two turns out and do a drive test and see how it behaves then. Will report back soon.
EDIT #2:
Now drove the Bug with the volume control screw set to 2 turns out. Saw the same behavior under acceleration as described in my first EDIT. The sputtering and such seems slightly reduced, but is still very much there under light load. Possible clogged idle circuit? I was pretty thorough when I cleaned out the carb and didn't run into any obstructions in any of the circuits. I also made sure this tank of gas was from a good quality station. Hmm...I'm open to ideas here.
In the interest of full disclosure, I should add the the carb is missing the idle shutoff valve. This shouldn't effect things as it's intent is to stop the engine from running on after the key has been turned off, but I though it merited comment. In the meantime, I'm going to go replace some fuel lines (been planning that for a while). I'll check in later. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, I've changed all the fuel lines and there was no clogs or anything like within them that might inhibit flow at low RPM.
Anyone have any suggestions? Or is this the Friday slump on the forums? _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 6:43 pm Post subject: Re: 30 PICT 2 Tuning |
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RONIN10 wrote: |
Hi everyone,
I'm sending out my H30/31 carb to be overhauled to fix a leaky bushing. In the interim, I'm putting on an old 30 PICT-2 I salvaged and rebuilt from an old, tired engine. The 30 isn't in great shape, but I need to get it working for at least a week or so until I get my refurbished 30/31 back. I did some looking around in the forums, but couldn't find any topics that managed to help me solve my issues (carb related that is). So I have the following two questions:
1. What are the correct initial settings for the throttle arm screw and the volume control screw?
I did find some anecdotal answers to these, but felt I should confirm them. For the throttle arm, I set it much like the recommendations for the 34 PICT-3: just touching the lowest step on the fast idle cam + 1/4 turn (90 degrees). This setting has the engine idling nicely during warmup but as soon as the choke opens fully and the throttle arm just comes off the fast idle cam, the engine starts to falter and leads me to adjusting the volume control screw. I tinkered with altering the throttle arm screw, but it didn't seem to help things any so it is currently left at the setting described above.
For the volume control screw, I initially set it at two turns out (once described as the "sweet spot" for a 30 PICT 2) and proceeded to vary it in or out, trying to get the car to idle without dying. I ended up at a full four turns out and managed to get the car idle for a minute or so, but it kind of petered out before dying. Further adjustments of the volume control screw (outward) would momentarily stabilize the idle, but within ten seconds, it would begin falter again. I've also experienced the car dying after deceleration which seems to be related So this leads to my next question.
2. What is an appropriate range of turns for the volume control screw? More specifically, how many turns outward before the screw no longer is effective? Since my carb won't idle for a prolonged period, it's hard for me to gage. Over four turns out seems like pretty far based on what I've read others being set at.
Relevant details: running a stock 1500 with the stock 205T distributor with new points. Dwell measures 48 degrees, timing is spot on at TDC, valves were adjusted to 0.006 at my last oil change (~1,000 miles ago). They haven't shown any tendency to wander over previous oil changes.
Thanks for any help and insight, folks.
Cheers.
EDIT:
I just took the Bug out for a drive (volume screw at 3 1/2 turns, throttle screw as described above) and found that it sputtered and backfired during acceleration in the lower RPM range of each gear. This means the volume screw is set to be too rich, correct? Low RPM = low throttle = low air = Too rich. Does that logic follow?
I also had to manually control the idle with the gas pedal each and every time I came to a stop. I am going to turn the volume control screw back down to two turns out and do a drive test and see how it behaves then. Will report back soon.
EDIT #2:
Now drove the Bug with the volume control screw set to 2 turns out. Saw the same behavior under acceleration as described in my first EDIT. The sputtering and such seems slightly reduced, but is still very much there under light load. Possible clogged idle circuit? I was pretty thorough when I cleaned out the carb and didn't run into any obstructions in any of the circuits. I also made sure this tank of gas was from a good quality station. Hmm...I'm open to ideas here.
In the interest of full disclosure, I should add the the carb is missing the idle shutoff valve. This shouldn't effect things as it's intent is to stop the engine from running on after the key has been turned off, but I though it merited comment. In the meantime, I'm going to go replace some fuel lines (been planning that for a while). I'll check in later. |
If you do not have the "stationary pilot jet" in place instead of the electric one and just an open hole in the carb body you will never be able to tune it properly.
Do you have one in there? |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, it's in there. I have and will continue to make many dumb mistakes, but not this time. Jetting is as follows: 125 air correction, 116 main, 55 pilot. All matching what Bentley says.
Incidentally, I sent you my 30/31 as we discussed. USPS says it'll be there on Monday. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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RONIN10 wrote: |
Yeah, it's in there. I have and will continue to make many dumb mistakes, but not this time. Jetting is as follows: 125 air correction, 116 main, 55 pilot. All matching what Bentley says.
Incidentally, I sent you my 30/31 as we discussed. USPS says it'll be there on Monday. |
Yeah I figured you might be one of the ones sending a carb my way this week.
And I was just confirming that you had a stationary jet in there... no disrespect... I have had all kinds of crazy cores sent my way that people were actually running with parts like that missing etc.
The problem with the 30 pict 2 is the internal factory set metering screw... it's behind a plug that you cannot get to it to adjust it and drilling out the plug to get to it and it making any difference is a crap shoot too. They are not the best of the lot for sure. |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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No disrespect taken. I've seen enough of your comments on and around the boards to know you didn't intend anything rude.
I've also read how finicky the 30 PICT-2 is. I guess I'm struggling to understand why I can't get a sustained idle at all. It seems like I'd be able to get some kind of idle (rough or otherwise) so long as the other elements (throttle arm screw and volume control screw) are set correctly. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 7:03 am Post subject: |
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RONIN10 wrote: |
No disrespect taken. I've seen enough of your comments on and around the boards to know you didn't intend anything rude.
I've also read how finicky the 30 PICT-2 is. I guess I'm struggling to understand why I can't get a sustained idle at all. It seems like I'd be able to get some kind of idle (rough or otherwise) so long as the other elements (throttle arm screw and volume control screw) are set correctly. |
The only thing I can suggest for you on it is to "crack" that stationary pilot jet open a bit and see if the engine picks up speed and smooths out. IF it does then it means the electric one or that one was overtightened in the carb body at some point ( common on these old carbs) and you need to use a few drops of blue loctite and set it in the "sweet spot" and then tune the carb again/check timing as before. |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the suggestion. I tried cracking the pilot jet, but to no avail. At this point, I'm sufficiently frustrated enough to just let it be and nurse it to and from work, unless anyone has some other insight, can give me a better starting point for the volume control screw and the throttle arm screw, or has some other suggestion as to what might be awry. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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After re reading your post I think your trouble might be..
Quote: |
For the throttle arm, I set it much like the recommendations for the 34 PICT-3: just touching the lowest step on the fast idle cam + 1/4 turn (90 degrees). This setting has the engine idling nicely during warmup but as soon as the choke opens fully and the throttle arm just comes off the fast idle cam, the engine starts to falter and leads me to adjusting the volume control screw. I tinkered with altering the throttle arm screw, but it didn't seem to help things any so it is currently left at the setting described above |
The screw on the 30 pict 2 is NOT set that way.. crank it in some more...
You do not have the butterfly open enough... that is why it idles well when the choke is on and died when the choke went off.
The screw is only set barely touching the lowest step on the cam on the 30 pict 3, the 34 pict 3 and 4 series and the H 30/31 carbs.... |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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I need to find me an old VW carburation engineer to beat on. You'd think they could manage to be consistent on the setting of the throttle arm screw.
I did play with this with no luck, but I was turning it in pretty big increments. I'll play around a bit on it tonight and tomorrow, adjusting it in smaller increments, and see if I can get a steady idle out of it. 1/4 turn increments seem reasonable?
UPDATE: I got some weird sort of stable idle going now, but it only works when I'm sitting in my garage. When I go out and drive the car, it dies every time I come to a stop. The idle doesn't hold a stable RPM either. They just roll up to about 1100 and then roll back down to being on the verge of killing the engine. This behavior is inconsistent though; there is no fixed period between the high and low RPMs.
And lastly, the warmup RPMs are now much higher than they've ever been while I owned this car and that's with the previous owner have the hot idle set to 1200 RPMs (trying to get it back down to 850 - 950 RPMs is what started this whole mess). _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
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This morning was nice. No particular reason to get up and rush out of bed, so my mind turned to the issues I'm having on the Bug and had a moment of clarity burst through my sleep fogged mind.
The 30 PICT-2 (at least mine) does not have a stop on the carb body for the throttle arm even though the specification is to have a .040" gap there. I do have the bracket that the throttle arm return spring hangs on, but it doesn't seem to function as a stop like on other carbs. This makes me confused as to how I'm supposed to set my throttle cable. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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GTMike Samba Member
Joined: January 12, 2007 Posts: 259 Location: Kissimmee, FL
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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RONIN10,
I'm curious if you have had any further luck tuning your carb for a good idle. I am having the same issue. I have a N.O.S. 30pict2 that is super smooth in the throttle, but absolutely does not want to idle...well, like you said, I can get it to do something half-assed in the driveway, but when I come to a stop, if I don't nurse it, it'll die. All the mixture settings are providing good power, so I don't want to have to mess with those again. I've already tuned it every which-way from Sunday to keep it from dying at a stop, but no luck.
Anyways, just wanted to see if you came to any kind of conclusion.
-M |
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BrianHulud Samba Member
Joined: June 28, 2006 Posts: 174 Location: Oxnard, Ca
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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GTMike wrote: |
RONIN10,
I'm curious if you have had any further luck tuning your carb for a good idle. I am having the same issue. I have a N.O.S. 30pict2 that is super smooth in the throttle, but absolutely does not want to idle...well, like you said, I can get it to do something half-assed in the driveway, but when I come to a stop, if I don't nurse it, it'll die. All the mixture settings are providing good power, so I don't want to have to mess with those again. I've already tuned it every which-way from Sunday to keep it from dying at a stop, but no luck.
Anyways, just wanted to see if you came to any kind of conclusion.
-M |
I had a similar problem with the same carb, it turned out the idle jet was clogged. if you havent, check that out. _________________ '67 Beetle w/ 1600
'65 beetle w/ 1914 |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13389 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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BrianHulud wrote: |
GTMike wrote: |
RONIN10,
I'm curious if you have had any further luck tuning your carb for a good idle. I am having the same issue. I have a N.O.S. 30pict2 that is super smooth in the throttle, but absolutely does not want to idle...well, like you said, I can get it to do something half-assed in the driveway, but when I come to a stop, if I don't nurse it, it'll die. All the mixture settings are providing good power, so I don't want to have to mess with those again. I've already tuned it every which-way from Sunday to keep it from dying at a stop, but no luck.
Anyways, just wanted to see if you came to any kind of conclusion.
-M |
I had a similar problem with the same carb, it turned out the idle jet was clogged. if you havent, check that out. |
Does it have the electronic idle jet or just the screw in one? If it's the electronic one, are you getting 12 volts to it? If you touch the wire to the electronic one does it 'click'? It's either that or like it was said above, you have some crap/dirt in the jet or idle circuit.
These Solex PICT30-2 CARBS get picked on a lot. I have one that came on my 69. It still has tight throttle shafts and has been cleaned and rebuilt. It works perfectly. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
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RONIN10 Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2007 Posts: 594 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:58 am Post subject: |
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GTMike wrote: |
RONIN10,
Anyways, just wanted to see if you came to any kind of conclusion.
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I never actually resolved the issue. The 30 PICT 2 I had was pretty tired as it had a cracked body where the pin that stops the fast idle cam goes. I toyed with using some JB Weld to set a new pin in there, but I ended up getting my H30/31 back from rebuild before the problem was resolved. I swapped out the carb, but I'm still experiencing bogging and such, but it's managable and I've not had the time (nor desire) to go back and revisit carb issue.
Still, it seems my problems were not necessarily confined to the carb. _________________ Andrew
Oscar: 1976 Westfalia Deluxe Camper, 2.0L FI, Manual Transaxle |
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