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John333 Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2007 Posts: 19
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:56 pm Post subject: Glovebox Installation and Hood Latch |
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Well here is a simple question I guess for some of you pro's but to me I am puzzled. I got a New Plastic Glovebox from Mid-America at the Bug Fest and was going to install in my 72 Super, (the one that is suppose to be there is gone), well does it mount from the rear or front, tried the front and was afraid I would break it. Also how do you get the old latch to install, I see no way to take it apart, looks like part of it needs to be on the inside and part on the outside. Any Help will be appreciated. |
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trilseker Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2005 Posts: 126
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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ok the plastic glove box i mounted mine from the front of the car(open the hood crawl and install) it is not a 100% fit. You must have a thin strip steel of metal that goes around the glove box which eventually will hold it. i will try and take a pic of it and post it for you |
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Gary Person of Interest
Joined: November 01, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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trilseker,
Can you post up pics of how the cable is routed? Someone hacked mine in my Super and I now have an ABS plastic box. I'm not certain how the cable should be routed.
John333,
Inspect the release lever and you should notice a small pin that holds the cable to the release lever. Remove the pin and then the lever assy is attached to the new glovebox. _________________ West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) |
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mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject: Hood Latch in '70 |
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I think I'm having a similar problem, but I am working with the hood latch in a '70. It looks more or less like this http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D111%2D823%2D651
So anyway, there appear to be two main parts to it; the release lever and the mounting plate (which is mounted on the INSIDE of the glovebox by one screw and two rivets). I am trying to install a new fiberglass glovebox to replace my worn paper one, and I can't figure out how to get the latch out and then mount it in my new glovebox. I have undone the single screw and drilled out the rivets. Piece of cake. But the hole in the side of the paper glove box is not big enough to slide the entire latch through. How do I push it through into the trunk or do I have to somehow undo the trunk cable? I COULD just bust through the old paper box, but then I still wouldn't know how to mount the latch in the new glove box. Help?
You can see the latch inside and outside the old glove box below.
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31373 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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About 10 years ago I installed a plastic glove box in mine, and the hood release cable, and I didn't have any issues....yes, the glove box installs from the front of car, from the trunk. Install the latch mechanism first, if I remember correctly, can use small screws or rivets. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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OKay, but how do I get the latch OUT of the old box and into the new? The old box only seems to have a 1/2" circular hole. Do I have to disconnect the cable? |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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You either remove the (tiny) spring pin from the glove box end or disconnect the cable from the latch in the trunk. I found it easier to disconnect it from the latch.
Sorry this is fuzzy, but this shows the hold down clamp in the trunk. Without it the release will not function very well, if at all. The cable sleeve has to be fairly stiff too.
_________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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nice-diver Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2007 Posts: 135 Location: oregon
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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destroy the old box, you bought a new one _________________ many 68's and 70's bugs...i want a 68-71 bus
People are more violently opposed to fur than leather, because it's easier to harrass rich women than motorcycle gangs! |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Destroying the old box doesn't help him install the hardware in the new one. The cable has to come off at one end. _________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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How do I disconnect the the cable from the llatch in the trunk? I looked and looked but I couldn't find a clear way to disconnect the cable in the trunk. |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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This pic is from my 74 super. Remove the screw that holds the cable in place (accessible from the top, there's a through-hole next to the mechanism), unbend the cable, and pull it through.
_________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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my set up looks similar but the screw hole appears to be on the bottom and only accessed with great difficulty. Any ideas? Do you know what kind of screw hole it is? Thanks for all the tips and pictures |
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dirtkeeper Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008 Posts: 3200 Location: Left of everywhere
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:50 am Post subject: |
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when i did mine i threw out th stock latch and installed an after market cable pull that has a locking key on it. It comes out and is mounted near the gas flap release lever. Much stronger and sure fire than the old one plus even if someone gets in the car they cant undo the hood without a key. |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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The screw is under the hole at the bottom right, you can see it here. It's a Phillips head. You may have to manually move the slider to see the screw through the hole. If the screw head is on the underside you'll have to undo it from there, though I'm not sure why someone would install it like that.
Here's another shot of the underside, might be easier to understand. After removing the screw, unbend the cable and it will slide right out.
See the slider "tab" that's sitting about 1/3 of the way across the hole? That needs to move very freely, that's what catches the hood catch and locks it. It's the same tab that needs to retract when you pull the lever in the glove box. Give it lots of grease and play with it while the cable is disconnected. Make it move nice and easy and be sure the return spring is on correctly too.
This is a shot of the glove box end of a brand new cable. I didn't need to install it in my bug as I managed to repair the existing mechanism. You can see the roll pin sticking up from the end, it's quite small. If you were to replace the cable entirely, you'd press out the old pin using a small punch or nail or something like that, then the cable would separate from the release lever. Then you'd line up the new cable over the lever and press the pin through so both ends are flush using a pair of pliers or vice grips.
The problem with this approach is that you'd have to install it after installing or at least dry fitting the lever in the glove box, and you'd have no slack in the cable and little working room up in the trunk. To make slack you'd want to undo the cable from the trunk release...and if you go and do that you might as well not worry about the lever end. Chances are your lever and cable are fine, they just need adjustment and lubrication.
So unless there's a real reason to completely replace the cable, don't bother with the roll pin end. Just pull the other end off and feed the entire thing through the glove box. Put in a new glove box, feed it back through the hole, and bolt the lever on to the new box (or use rivets, whichever you have). Whatever hardware you use, check that it leaves enough clearance for the lever to move without interference. Spray lithium grease inside the white cable sleeve before installation so it moves freely.
Once it's all installed you will feed the cable back through the mechanism the way it came out. It has to be tight after putting that screw back in! Then you bend the cable back the way it was so even if the screw loosens a little it should still function. After you've tested the lever and tab action, but before you actually slam the trunk and lock yourself out remove the hood catch from the trunk lid. It's held in with two bolts. Test fit it into the latch and then have someone pull the release lever. Make sure it releases!! You can adjust the length of the hood catch pin by loosening the lock nut, turning the end of the pin in or out, then tightening the lock nut.
This isn't a particularly hard job, but it does require patience and some tweaking. But you can do it. Just don't slam that hood solid until you're sure it'll work! _________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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2002sportside Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 1489 Location: New England
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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mnussbau wrote: |
This isn't a particularly hard job, but it does require patience and some tweaking. But you can do it. Just don't slam that hood solid until you're sure it'll work! |
Yeah, I found out the hard way. Luckily I installed it with nuts and bolts and was able to get them unscrewed. Reinstalling it properly is low on the "to do" list... _________________ 1973 Volkswagen Beetle never ending project |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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Truth be told, it took me probably 4-5 hours over a number of days. The plastic sleeve was all broken up when I got the car, so I bought some cheap tubing at a hardware store. I discovered it was too flimsy and useless, it allows too much flex in the cable. I was also missing that metal hold-down clamp, which again lets the cable move/flex. So I found a used OG sleeve and clamp off a junker.
But now that it's working, whenever I go to pop the trunk it brings a big smile and a feeling of accomplishment. _________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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tronstones Samba Member
Joined: December 18, 2008 Posts: 67 Location: Savannah, GA
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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yeah, I just got a new glove box as well and had the same problem. After reading this thread I thought pulling the wire out and shoving it through the new glovebox hole would be a pain in the arse, but it was actually quite easy. I would say to you or anyone who gets a new glovebox pull the hood release cable out and slide it back in, and in just a few minutes WALLAH, new glovebox. |
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tele68 Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2009 Posts: 389 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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I'm about to do the same repair on my '72 SB. I bought the replacement cable, lever and latch from CIP1, seem OK quality, but the cable does not come with the sleeve, just the cable? does anyone know who sells this separate or will any old auto store/mower shop variety choke/throttle cable work? Also, any one make a back up so if it fails, so ya don't get locked out? I'm thinking of running and extra flexible cable like a steel fishing leader (shark type!) through a small hole inside the wheel well with a pull ring on it that can release the latch in case the cable and lever don't? |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31373 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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Replacement plastic glove box on my '71 SB, re-used original release handle. For you, Ace Hardware should have hard polypropylene or polyethylene white tubing by the foot.
_________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mnussbau Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2006 Posts: 4589 Location: Central Maryland
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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Whatever sleeve you end up buying needs to be fairly stiff, otherwise it'll flex all over the place and the release won't operate. _________________ Mike
Sold my sedan
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