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Rear Axle and Wheel Bearing Questions--'61 Bus
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jazzed
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Joined: August 03, 2002
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Location: Eugene, OR
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:03 pm    Post subject: Rear Axle and Wheel Bearing Questions--'61 Bus Reply with quote

1) The rear axle: I replaced the axle seals and noticed a large O-ring in the package, along with the seal, a small o-ring, two gaskets and a cotter pin. When I took everything apart, there was no large O-ring installed by the PO. Muir's book stated that the gasket should be installed and then the large O-ring placed around the bearing, after which the cover is installed (of course, I also put the small o-ring over the axle stub and pressed the seal into the cover). I've installed it this way, but I'm concerned that whoever previously worked on my bus didn't bother with that large O-ring. Is it possible I should have left it out, since the kit covers such a huge range of years (50-67, I believe)?

2) the really dumb question regarding the front bearing assembly: I took my drums in to be turned and some of the parts were within the drums, so I got a bit confused. The races are intact and were pressed back into the drum. Here's what I think re-assembly should involve: From the backing plate towards the dust cap, 1. Thick spacer/seal sits against backing plate 2. the drum assembly--large spacer taps back into drum over large bearing in raceway--gap--small bearing in raceway covered by metal grease seal with keyway that fits over axle. Correct?

3) When I grease these babies up, Muir advocates packing the dust cap with grease after working it into the bearings. What about the area between the two bearings?

Sorry for the naive questions, but I haven't done this before and want to do it right.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did a thread and internet explorer gave me the infamous message, again, so it did not get through. I will split it up in case it happens again.
1) Throw away the large O-ring.

2) I don't know what you meant by "some of the parts were within the drums." The thick spacer is pressed over the spindle and the thick washer fits against the outside of the outer wheel bearing.
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jazzed
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Location: Eugene, OR
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
I just did a thread and internet explorer gave me the infamous message, again, so it did not get through. I will split it up in case it happens again.
1) Throw away the large O-ring.

2) I don't know what you meant by "some of the parts were within the drums." The thick spacer is pressed over the spindle and the thick washer fits against the outside of the outer wheel bearing.



One of the bearings and both races were within the drums when I took them in and I neglected to diagram the order for re-installation; though it seems rather self-explanatory, I would prefer to ask the kind contributors to this forum rather than F it up as I apparently did by installing the large O-ring (fortunately, I hadn't refilled the RGB's, so no big deal to remove it).
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Campy
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3) I have read not to fill the cap with grease. Regarding the void in the hub of the drum, I have been using Floyd Clymer's Transporter motor manual for the last 25 years and, in it, he recommends that the void be filled with grease. One reason to do it is to keep moisture from condensing out of humid air in there, and another reason is that the wheel bearings are not sealed and it is good to have grease against there inner sides.

4) To adjust the wheel bearings, take the slack out of them by tightening the inner nut while spinning the drum, then back it off. Tighten the inner nut until the washer can be moved with slight resistance by twisting a large flat screwdriver with its end between the edge of the washer and the edge of the hub (don't poke the screwdriver in too far or you will risk damaging the bearing's cage). I have slight resistance on moving the washer because when the outer nut is tightened against the inner nut and lock washer (the inner nut is held in place with a thin wrench), the inner nut gets pushed in a little against the washer, making it a little tighter fit, which is what you want.
To install wheel bearing races in the hub, I use an old race for each one with, of course, the thick end of the race against the outer side of the race that I am installing, and tapping a hammer against it (a press would be good if you have one). The big one is done first because, when the race is finally seated against the lip in the hub, there is more room on the outside of the hub to put a narrow flat punch against the inside edge of the old race on the outer side and whack it with a hammer (be careful so you don't nick the good race), going back and forth until it falls out. Do the same thing for the small race. That is the way that I have always done it. Maybe somone has a better method.
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