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Trouble shifting into 1st from a stand still
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Rhinoculips
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 3:19 pm    Post subject: Trouble shifting into 1st from a stand still Reply with quote

After searching for awhile, I can't seem to find anyone thats had the same symptoms.

In my M/T '89 Westy, I have noticed a gradual increasing problem(over many years) when shifting from neutral into first gear when about to take off from a stop light. It feels like there is something stopping it from going up like normal. To get it into gear, I must push it hard to the left before pushing it up into first. Going from neutral into any other gear is fine, though obviously you cant take off from 2-4 gears. Shifting through the gears is ok, not great.

To me this seems like a problem with the linkage. Something is not lining up. Is it the plastic parts in the shift base, link bushing, rod bushing or the linkage at the transmission? I have read that there are certain parts that require dropping the tank?

What are your thoughts as to which area needs the replacement parts?

What type of grease should be used on the linkage parts?

Thanks for the help.
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Last edited by Rhinoculips on Sat Jul 26, 2008 5:38 pm; edited 2 times in total
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levi
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before buying parts you might try something that can have a huge effect.
At the base of the shifter, under the rubber boot, is a diamond shaped plate held by two 10mm (I think). Before loosening these use a pencil to trace the outside of the diamond plate, so you know where you started. Then shift the plate slightly in different directions.
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apratt
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have also done a search and I am experiencing the same problem shifting into first gear in my 91 Westy.

The PO left documentation of the same issue and addressed it by having a Tiico (35K ago) and a rebuilt trans (45k ago) installed at reputable shops. He was a fanatic about top quality repairs and upgrades as well as documentation. I really doubt that it is the throw-out bearing or other major issue at this mileage.

I like the suggestions of investigating the linkage and shifting the location of the mounting plate.

Please post if it works for you or not.

Good luck.
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cafejane
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same exact problem with my '90 when I bought it. I was told all sorts of different reasons for it from the PO and the mechanic I had check it out. Then, a few months later, when I got around to bleeding my brakes I discovered the hydraulic fluid was almost black. Obviously it had not been changed for a long while. So after replacing the fluid, bleeding the brakes, and then bleeding the clutch I got in to go for a test run. Not only did my brakes work much better but there was no more problems getting into first gear. It has been four months now and still no problem. I'd say it is worth a try especially if, like most people, you have not changed the fluid in a while.
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OilNBolts
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this problem, and repaired it recently. Back at the transmission, there is a sort of ball and socket affair that translates the shift rod motion into something that the transmission can use. That ball and socket has a rubber boot to keep road crud out, as does the selector shaft coming out of the transmission. Both of those boots had long ago rotted away on my '89.

I purchased the rebuild kit from one of the better vendors. This was the die-cast cup, the plastic and steel ball, a guide bushing, and the two rubber boots. After disassembling and cleaning the old parts, I compared the diameters of the old and new plastic balls with a caliper, and found the old one to be very slightly larger, and equally round! Comparing the fit, by feel, of the new and old assemblies, I could tell no difference.

So, I greased the old ball and cup, put a thin film of grease on the transmission selector shaft for good measure, and replaced the rubber boots. My shifting problem has disappeared.

The only thing I didn't check was the rear guide bushing for the shifter tube, which is mounted to the transmission. If that is worn substantially, it will prevent the shift selector rod from being pushed far enough into the transmission. That would make the 1st / 2nd gate seem very thin.

Hope that helps. It is easy to try- just clean the ball and socket, re-grease with your favorite- I used high temperature wheel bearing grease- and give it a try.
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Alan Brase
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OilNBolts wrote:




Hope that helps. It is easy to try- just clean the ball and socket, re-grease with your favorite- I used high temperature wheel bearing grease- and give it a try.

And make sure that ball lever is tight on the shaft of the transmission. If the nut gets loose, the splines will wear out quickly and you may need to replace both the shaft thru the tranny and the lever.
This is a very good place to get out the torque wrench and tighten to the numbers. I put red locktite on the threads, too.
Al
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Al Brase
Projects: 67 sunroof bug, 67 Porsche 912 Targa, 70 Westy
Dec 1955 Single Cab pickup WANT 15" BUS RIMS dated 8/55, thru 12/55
To New owners: 1969 doublecab, 1971 Dormobile
Vanagons:
80 P27 Westy JUL 1979, 3rd oldest known US
83 1.6TD Vanagon, 87 Wolfie Westy daily driver, swap meet home
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Rhinoculips
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input guys!

All the ideas seem plausible. Thus, I think I will start with the easiest tip and work to the hardest. Hopefully I'll get to it sometime in August and post with the results then.

Fair winds and following seas,

Ryan
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gears
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a little trick to temporarily improve general baulky shifting (which may or may not help the OP): The shift linkage rod is mounted at the transmission end by a bracket that locates the socket in relation to the ball. It's normally the socket that wears, causing the slop. Replace the two 8mm bracket bolts & nuts (which secure the bracket to the housing) with 6mm ones (along with some "fender" washers), which allow you to raise the bracket up higher, thus moving the ball further into the socket.

If this little trick dramatically improves shifting, you know your problem was a sloppy socket. Replace the socket (and return to the original 8mm bolts) at your earliest convenience.
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OilNBolts
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

69doublecab wrote:

This is a very good place to get out the torque wrench and tighten to the numbers. I put red locktite on the threads, too.
Al


I didn't know that Al, I'll locktite and torque this weekend- thanks for the tip!

Roger R.
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