Rekeying a lock - Tutorial FAQ

[brandn]

I have already posted this up as a reply but I will post it up as a standalone so it is nice and easy to find on a search:

Ok Here we go.
First the disclaimer! Im obviously no locksmith and i dare say there are people out there who can do it other ways but this has worked everytime for me and i am now on one key!

The handle i am using is a front door handle, the process is the same for all locks, but the sliding door and hatch lock have a very little phillips screw which needs to be removed to release the barrel.

OK, you will need these bits. The extra wafers are optional:

First off, insert the key. This will stop the wafers flicking out when you pull the barrel as they are on little springs. Then remove the latch from the back of the lock and remove the little retainer spring:

Now you should be able to slide the barrel out, make sure the key stays in the lock so you dont lose the wafers.

Ok, lay the barrel down on its side and you should be able to see which wafers are sticking out, and therefore stopping the barrel from spinning. I have marked 2 definates and 1 possible on this lock:

Slowly remove the key whilst holding the wafers in as the key comes out to ensure they dont pop out.

Carefully remove the offending wafers, if the lock is clean they should just pop out, if not they may need some persuasion with a little screwdriver of plyers. I ended up removing three on this lock.

Stick the key back in the lock and take another look, all the pins should sit clean against the barrel now.

If they do, slide the lock back in and see if it will turn, this one turned nicely. If not check the wafers, one must still not be flush.

If you have extra spare wafers now is the time to use them, for me its trial and error, until you find one that works. There are not many sizes so it doesnt take long. If you dont have them its not the end of the world. I removed 3 wafers here, which left plenty in the barrel to form a lock. I have never had to remove more than 3.
Now is the time to use the silicone spray to clean up the lock and then a nice dose of grease gets it all moving nicely. This lock was super clean so i didnt bother but all my other ones have been heavely clogged up and needed a good clean up.
Ok time to put the lock together. With the key in the barrel slide it back in place, replace the spring, screw the latch back on:

Bingo.... one working lock... Repeat for rest of van, now sit back and congratulate yourself on another job out of the way!

[calebmelvin]

Nice! I need to do this!
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[francispj]

thanks for that, will try - great to see your beer - have hurt myself with steinlarger- I used to drink the blue steinies when I lived there

[EverettB]

Nice post, I added it to the favorite threads sticky at the top.

My input:
It would be best to have the full complement of wafers in there. Steal them from a junk handle if necessary.

Silicone spray is not a cleaner, it's better to use a solvent. I used spray carb. cleaner last time I did this.

The wafers I have examined have numbers on them. You usually have to clean them to see the numbers. This may assist you in analyzing which one you need to use.
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[brandn]

[1975 Kombi]

I think they make a lock spray lubricant made from graphite. Once the carrier has evaporated it leaves just a graphite coating. I am checking to see if wafers from a newer VW will work. I have a ton of handles from '85-'92 Jettas and Golfs. You might also want to have a clean cut key from the original code before you start. It gives you a more accurate job and at some point you may need new keys and they might have a slightly different outcome.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
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Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[hazetguy]

[1975 Kombi]

[1975 Kombi]

Ya the key only goes one way into the barrel but the barrel might go into the handle 180 degrees out but I don't think so. Even with all the wafers out the key only goes in one way.

The wafers seem to be group year specific. I tried the '85-'92 Jetta, Golf and they are too big for the '68-'79 barrels/cylinders.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[peaceful warrior]

Just a note, removing wafers makes your locks easily pickable. Everett is correct about having extras and they do have numbers. Another thing you can do if needed, is to file down a long wafer. It will work to get a clean shear line.

[EZ Gruv]

Great tutorial.
Just one thing though...you need better lighting.
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Eric
1977 Deluxe Westfalia - 2.0L FI Type IV, Completely Original
Photographer for HotVWs, VolksWorld, AirMighty, VW Camper & Commercial, Hayburner, and more.
My Photography Page.

[brandn]

[EZ Gruv]

Just wanted to say thanks (again) for the tutorial; you inspired me.

My front door lock cylinders have actually been broken for a couple years. Actually broken inside where little pieces had fallen out. Anyway, I got ahold of an old door handle with a lock cylinder in it. Using a somewhat simplified version of your theory, I swapped wafers out of my broken cylinder into the good cylinder and viola! One working driver's side lock! No more entering through the slider!

I would not have thought it was so easy with this post.
Thanks!

I still need one more cylinder if anyone has one they would like to part with. It doesnt even have to have wafers in it.
_________________
Eric
1977 Deluxe Westfalia - 2.0L FI Type IV, Completely Original
Photographer for HotVWs, VolksWorld, AirMighty, VW Camper & Commercial, Hayburner, and more.
My Photography Page.

[brandn]

[cafejane]

Do you have any idea how to pull out the barrel on the engine cover door lock? I can't see any screws or anything holding it in.

I was just about to pay someone else to do all my locks for me. It is so amazing how these threads pop up just when you need them. Thanks for the great post.
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'68 Bay Deluxe
'90 Vanagon Multivan
'00 Cagiva Gran Canyon

[honeybus]

[honeybus]

Can the glove box key lock on a 1978 glove box be recoded to match an 'R' profiled key??

If yes, then how....

Anymouse
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'78 Westy ... purchased 11 Dec 06 ($9,000); sand blasted/primered 7 Jan 07 ($1,200); body shop 3 Apr 07 ($2,000); paint shop 7 Nov 07 ($6,000); home 22 Apr 08; started TLC 28 Aug 08; got very first sign of life 8 Jun 2010; Run about 1,000 miles in Florida in May 2011; 1,600 miles road trip Orlando-Key West-Aldie Virginia 10-26 Mar 2020 (COVID-19 started)

Thanks for all the fish.

[cafejane]

Opps, I just realized I meant the rear hatch lock and not the engine cover lock which mine does not even have.

However, my hatch lock cylinder does not have any small screws that I can find. I should probably have mentioned my bus is a '68. Is the lock different on a '68 like so many other things? The hatch is not original though due to an accident of the PO so I do not know for sure what year it is.

I believe it is still an "L" profile key because my ignition key fits inside it but it will not turn.
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'68 Bay Deluxe
'90 Vanagon Multivan
'00 Cagiva Gran Canyon

[jtauxe]

I just recently completed a lock and mechanism overhaul, and have some suggestions to add. First off, I did the mechanisms, and I had a locksmith do the locks (all four) for about $100. I would have tried it myself if I had seen your post! But anyway...

The local locksmith frowned upon the use of graphite, and shuddered at the idea of grease for a lock lubricant. He said that grease would get gummed up with dirt and crud over time, and that graphite would do the same. He swore by teflon, and I must say it has worked beautifully.

There is a teflon-in-a-spray can for getting into hard-to-reach places. It has some liquid vehicle that evaporates, leaving a nice coating of teflon over everything. This I found at the local hardware store.

Another thing he turned me on to (and which I found on eBay) is powdered teflon. I now have a small bottle of it, which will be good for several lifetimes! This stuff you use like you would graphite, but it is much cleaner and more slippery.

So, my suggestion is simply to pass on the locksmith's advice: Use Teflon for a lock lubricant!

And, man, is it nice to have four matching locks that work smoothly!
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
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[honeybus]

Does anyone recommend Dupont Tri-Flow for locks?



http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/trisports_2012_60367663

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-173836.html


Anymouse sends
_________________
More than I need -
'78 Westy ... purchased 11 Dec 06 ($9,000); sand blasted/primered 7 Jan 07 ($1,200); body shop 3 Apr 07 ($2,000); paint shop 7 Nov 07 ($6,000); home 22 Apr 08; started TLC 28 Aug 08; got very first sign of life 8 Jun 2010; Run about 1,000 miles in Florida in May 2011; 1,600 miles road trip Orlando-Key West-Aldie Virginia 10-26 Mar 2020 (COVID-19 started)

Thanks for all the fish.