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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: September 13, 2002 Posts: 37
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 8:03 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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I replaced the stock engine in my 1973 Transporter with a 1600cc DP upright.
Presently, the engine is sealed using custom engine tin I fabricated from the tin of a 1968 bus and sheet metal. The front half of the engine is sealed very well but around the back the seal is not so good. It was VERY difficult to form the sheet metal to fit around the rear of the engine. I know that 1 piece fibreglass conversion kits are available but I do not have the cash for one right now.
Does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?
Thank-you in advance. |
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ChrisM181 Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2002 Posts: 181
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 8:24 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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Sounds like you have it handled. I did the exact same thing on my first bus. I took a 1600cc Dp out of a 1970 single cab and put in a 73 Transporter. Drove it for a couple of years and never had a problem! |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 8:27 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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Super sticky aluminum tape like the kind Heating and Air-conditioning contractors use. Avail at most Home improvement stores ect. it could come in useful for sealing up leaks in your set up and will withstand the heat and peel off when you need it to and the residual glue will come off with lighter fluid or brake/ carb cleaner spray.... |
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bljones Resident Wit
Joined: February 08, 2002 Posts: 2377 Location: ontario canada
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 9:22 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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purists will cringe, but here is a thought- find a 68-71 bus in a junkyard. cut out the engine bay floor. trim the panel so that there is a flange around the engine seal lip wide enough to overlap the opening in your bus by about 1 1/2". now you have the panel you need to properly seal your upright. on the bottom side of this "adapter panel" install some adhesive backed foam weather stripping to seal it to your existing engine bay floor. fit it in place, and drill six holes (three each side) install dzus fasteners to secure the new panel, but still make it removable if you ever want to convert back to type iv power. quick, simple, cheap, reversible. |
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bljones Resident Wit
Joined: February 08, 2002 Posts: 2377 Location: ontario canada
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2003 10:25 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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I should clarify, you'll need to do some bending/tweaking on the left side to clear the bulge in the engine bay floor of your 73. take some careful measurements, and use a piece of cardboard to cut a pattern. |
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Aussiebug Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002 Posts: 2162 Location: Adelaide Australia
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Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2003 8:23 pm Post subject: 1600cc Upright in a 1973 Transporter |
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>(They used the 1600 upright there until 1979)
And here in Australia the 1600dp was an option from 72 to 76 in the kombis/buses.
For example, all the Telecom (monopoly phone company in Aus back then) VW vans had the 1600dp engine in them (and Telecom bought quite a few!). Easy to spot too - they were all panel van bodies with brown interior trim.
So the tinware is around if you look for it.
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/ |
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