Anyone have the Pin out for the headlight switch???

[winkshog]

I don't know why The dash light are not working. so last night I took it apart and tested the cluster and the foil is good just not getting power from the Dimmer switch. I am looking to by pass it. I do not have a need to dim I just want lights.

I was thinking I would jump it from on the switch to bypass the dimmer.

Or can I use the key on to the cluster to run the lights?

Any thoughts would be great.

sean
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85 Westy
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[r39o]

The pin out standardized DIN numbers are on the back of the switch. You decode from there. I recall that the small bluish (purple?) with a (white?) strip wire is the instrument lamps and goes to lots and lots of places under the dash. But, I am going from memory and do not have the time, at the moment, to look in the Bosch book for the code numbers and wiring code colors.

It is not too hard to figure out, there are not that many wires. Pull it out and look.
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[winkshog]

I guess I should restate the question... If the dimmer is all the way up how much juice is it putting out?
Dimmers must go bad all the time. the one in the other van is bad so I can't tell.

anyone have that info?

thanks for the help
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[winkshog]

I have tested all and it all test good. Still no lights. Was driving along and the lights came on "let there be light" and then went off. The dimmer work when the lights were on.
It was raining so I am now thinking there is a ground problem.

Hell at this point I don't know.
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[Phil G]

Dimmer pot on HL switch in the Vanagon is perhaps the cheapest, crappyest component on the car - right up there with the digital clock chip.
Unless you use your van as a submarine, chances are the ground is not the problem since it is high and dry inside the car.
This might help you:

As you can see, setting a current jumper between terminals 58 and 58b
will bypass the dimmer pot, allowing full current to the instrument lamps, but of course the headlight switch must be in the parking or headlight 'on' position during the test. You will probably find this test implicates the dimmer pot as your problem.

PS - At the minimum-dim end of the dimmer pot's range there should 'felt' a distinctive resistance (click) into a zero-resistance position giving full current to the lamps (no-dimming). If not, in addition to wear you have a switch with fatally broken internals.
Have fun!

Phil

[winkshog]

Phil g
thanks I Should have said this in my last post. I did do a jumper and it still did not work so I took it out.

thanks for the pin out
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[Phil G]

Next step then is to test for voltage on the line side of the dimmer switch with headlight switch in the on position.

Best,
Phil

[Phil G]

Oops, reviewing your original post, I think I gave you the wrong Schematic page for 87' when it appears your vans are 85's.

Here's the page for 85' models:

As you can see there are some differences.

P

[winkshog]

Did some digging this weekend and found that their is a fuse in that link...I thought that the fuse was before the switch but for the dash lights it is after so i cleaned the fuse are and bam the light came on. of all the times to think that it is one thing and find out that it was as simple as pull out the fuse and put it back and you are good.

Thanks for the pages Phil...

Now in the morning when I go to work I can see the dash. I have been driving so long with out them that it is weird to have lights.

sean
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[allsierra123]

Is there a better switch from another VW perhaps that could replace the stock one?
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