brakes don't stop my trike.....(SOLVED)

vw_triker · Last edited by vw_triker on Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:51 pm; edited 1 time in total

I have a trike, 63 swing axle, I have replaced everything from the master cylinder to the shoes. I have bled everything properly and adjusted the shoes. I have about a half inch of free play on the pedal before it gets hard to push. I know it has been along time since I've driven anything without power brakes but should I have to almost stand on the pedal to get it to stop at 10 miles an hour?
I can email picture of my setup to anyone that can help. I've tried to post them in the Gallery but it says they are too big? Any help gladly accepted..
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Letterman7 · Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:30 pm Post subject:

Something ain't right. Are you sure you've got the shoes adjusted right? Just a hair off dragging on the drums? Are they clean - no leaking axle fluid to the inside? Is the pedal literally hard to push after that first half inch? Did you bench bleed the master before you installed it?

vw_triker · Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:38 am Post subject:

Yes, the shoes are just a hair off dragging. nothing leaking inside the drums. Everything is new in there. All brake parts, seals, bearings, etc. The pedal is very hard to push after that first half inch. Yes, I followed the book and bled everything properly. Putting the front brake on today, that may help me stop but it does nothing for the original problem of the back brakes not working properly.
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Letterman7 · Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:52 am Post subject:

Then something isn't right with the master. It shouldn't be hard to push at any spot. Are you running a dual circuit master? If you haven't hooked anything to the front circuit (the forwardmost port) then you will experience what you describe. The fluid simply doesn't have anywhere to go - and front brakes do more of the stopping. Try swapping the line to the front port after you hook up your front brake and see what happens...

vw_triker · Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject:

I have a single circuit master on it. I have thought about running seperate lines from the master (outer outlets) to each wheel cyl. I am currently running a single line from MC (center outlet) to a T fitting then to each wheel cyl.
Someone has also suggested that I put front wheel cyl. on the rear for more stopping power. I am on a shoesting budget and cannot afford disk conversions at this time.
I am going to change out the master on monday. Right after I bench bleed it. Hopefully that will help.
I did get the front brake working today. Got to ride about a mile. Very Happy

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Letterman7 · Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 8:12 pm Post subject:

Hmm..that may be the largest part of the problem. Running separate lines will definately help things along, but I think there is something else going on internally with the m/c. Can you get someone by the rear backing plates with a flashlight shining through the inspection holes? Step on the pedal and see if they can see the shoes actually move.

vw_triker · Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 8:27 pm Post subject:

Yes, the shoes do move... if going slow (about 10mph) I step on the pedal it will slow me to a stop gradually. I really have to put the pressure on to get it to stop though.
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Letterman7 · Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 11:01 am Post subject:

Ok...here's a thought: do you have the right drum/shoe combination? If the shoes are adjusted almost all the way out to meet a drum that's too large, that will be an issue. I just can't think of anything else that would cause that problem, unless it's a defective master cylinder. Trikes are light - a light touch on the pedal should be able to stop it.

vw_triker · Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:54 pm Post subject:

I adjusted the pushrod to take up the slack brfore it hit the piston and VIOLA! my brakes work alot better. not great but they will stop me if I'm paying attention to the road.....
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Letterman7 · Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:58 am Post subject:

Congratulations! That was going to be my next route of questions, concerning the pedal cluster. Which way did you have to adjust the rod? In or out from the pedal cluster? In any case, I'd bleed the brakes yet again using the two-person method. I've rarely had success with the vacuum bleeders...

vw_triker · Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:27 pm Post subject:

First off I do not have a pedal cluster. I have clutch pedal on left side of trike and brake on right. I had to make the rod longer. When the bracket ( to hold the master) got welded on, it must not have went on in the designated place. I have rebled the brakes using the two person method but they remain about the same. But that is much better than what it was last week. Smile

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