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My 67 swingaxles leak HELP!
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ozzmonaut
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:45 am    Post subject: My 67 swingaxles leak HELP! Reply with quote

I put a rebuilt transmission in, put the axles in, made sure they swing freely, and got it all put in. I put new bearings, seals, o-rings, etc. But with it all tightened down, gear oil is getting out. So i tried a different set of seals, thinking manufacturing defect, but it still happens. Does anyone know how to stop this? Thanks for any help you can give me. I've owned a couple buses and 2 supers, but this is my first swingaxle project.
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Mark
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is it leaking from exactly? If it's the boots, what kind did you use?
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ozzmonaut
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:46 am    Post subject: 67 rear wheel seals won't stop leaking Reply with quote

It's actually leaking at the outer seals. It seems to be getting between the spacer that is to the outside of the bearings and the axle itself. The o-rings are new that go between the spacer and bearing. I've had it all apart several times and put it together by the diagram. I don't see how swingaxle assemblies don't leak being as either the axle will turn inside the spacer and lock up from the heat or the spacer will turn inside the seal and eat it up. Thanks, though
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the axle nuts torqued down?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Germanpride wrote:
Are the axle nuts torqued down?


When he says torqued he means TIGHT!!! 250 ft. lbs + to the next cotter pin.
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bill may
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when installing the transaxle did you use same axle tubes and bearing retainers that came on old axle tubes and bearing retainers? the bearing retainers must match the end castings. 66 and older end castings use 66 and older bearing retainers,67 end castings must be used with 67 bearing retainers,68 and newer use 68 and newer . there can be 1/8" difference in depth for bearing to sit in end casting and retainer so a mis-match can cause leaks.
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67 Shane
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=219696
Click the link above and it will give you a pretty good idea of how to put it all together. Hazetguy wrote it. I put it to the test intalling a new tranny in my 67 and he was right. The lip rolled each time I put the spacer on the axle first. Very easy this way. Hope it helps.
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ozzmonaut
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate so much feedback. But I used the same axle tubes and bearing retainer. The book says to torque axle nut to 120 I believe and I torqued them to about 150. I also tried putting the spacer in the seal first to make sure because with the first set of seals I did roll the lip on one. And it leaks with the nuts torqued down but if it has to be torqued to 250 that could be the problem, but I wouldn't know how to get them that tight. Do torque wrenches even go that high. They weren't that tight when I disassembled everything and it didn't leak then. But I appreciate you guys actually taking the time to read my problem and to reply. Can you guys give me an idea on how to get the nuts to 250? I'd appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ozzmonaut wrote:
Can you guys give me an idea on how to get the nuts to 250? I'd appreciate it.


The axle nut needs to be around 250 - but 120 should have been plenty to seat the smaller spacer/Oring. The larger bearing cap O-ring should have seated when you torqued the 4 bolts there.

Yes they do make torque wrenches that go that high, they cost more though.

But you don't need it, you can figure it yourself. Pretty simple physics, actually. Say you weigh 180 lbs. If you stand on a breaker bar, 1 foot away from the center of rotation, that's 180 pound-feet. Divide 250 by 180 to get a result of 1.39. Multiply that by 12 inches to get 16.67". Get a cheater pipe to extend your breaker bar and stand on it around 16.67" from center, and you'll have put 250 lb-feet on the nut. Also, you may have to go tighter than that as well - if none of the cotter pin holes line up, you gotta tighten it further til you get some holes to line up.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make 100% sure you are putting it together right. The large O-ring goes OVER the bearing - not in the bearing housing- That is what kicked my butt the first 3, 4 or 5 times I did it and it leaked. I re-read the instructions and looked at the pictures again and realized that allthough I was putting it back together the way I took it apart, it was wrong to start with.

And you don't need a ton of sealer and crap - I used aviation sealer on the paper gaskets and that was it. Also - make sure everything is real clean before you but it together - easy trick is to jack up the wheel end of the axle side that you are working on so the tranny oil runs back into the tranny.
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talipp
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:17 pm    Post subject: possibly wrong year? Reply with quote

i bought a rebuilt trans for my 67 and after about 100 attempts to get the axle ends to seal discovered that the tranny was a 68. apparently 67's are a one time deal. a buddy suggested using a second spacer and it worked. the guy who sold me the tranny still insists it was a 67.....check the axles?
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Corwin
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bill may wrote:
when installing the transaxle did you use same axle tubes and bearing retainers that came on old axle tubes and bearing retainers? the bearing retainers must match the end castings. 66 and older end castings use 66 and older bearing retainers,67 end castings must be used with 67 bearing retainers,68 and newer use 68 and newer . there can be 1/8" difference in depth for bearing to sit in end casting and retainer so a mis-match can cause leaks.


You can get them to work - I've got short axles on my '68 and they're fine. Took several tries, with lots of goop, but it can be done! Wink
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ozzmonaut
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

An old vw mechanic told me over the phone that once the four bolts on the bearing housing are torqued to 40 ft/lbs the leaking should stop, or else you risk a few drops of oil ruining your brake pads So right now i have both drums off. The drivers side isn't leaking, so I pulled it apart and made sure the other side is together the same way. It is so I put it all back together and the passenger side still leaks. The larger o-ring is over the bearing, the small o-ring over the axle shaft, spacer on, then seal and seal housing, then the four bolts. But fluid just keeps creeping out. The axles are the right length I believe because with the drums torqued down as tight(and I mean tight like everyone said this time) the cotter pins go in. Everything seems alright except that persistent leak. Thanks to everyone for your ongoing help. I miss my 73 camper. It never had problems like this.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The big axle nut compresses the small o-ring. Until the drum is cranked down, you can still get a leak around the axle itself. Is that where it's leaking after you torque the bearing housing nuts? If so, putting the drum on should stop the leak.

One thing I didn't see you mention is the thin washer that goes on against the bearing before the small O-ring......

Also, for the hell of it, take a look at the inside of the outer spacer that goes against the small O-ring. It is chamfered to sit against the O-ring and if that is gouged, sand out the gouge before installing it.

And you mechanic is wrong that it wont leak once the bearing housing is torqued. If shouldn't leak a lot, but it will leak some until the drum is cranked down.....
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