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Strongest way to attach flat tab to tube end
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wythac
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:07 am    Post subject: Strongest way to attach flat tab to tube end Reply with quote

I"m going to tie a tubular rear sub frame into my shock tower. I am thinking that I will cut two open ended slots (across from one another) into the end of the tube (.120 wall DOM) about 1" to 1.5" back from the tube end. I'll then fab and insert an arrowhead shaped flat steel piece with a hole in it's end for a shock bolt into those slots. With the end of the tube still open, I would have access to weld the tab to the tube on the inside and out. I'd then weld caps to the open tube on either side of the tab.

Any suggestions for a better way of doing this? I'm thinking it would be plenty strong, with the overlap of the tab and the tube creating increasing the area available to weld the pieces to each other, but there might be a better mousetrap out there. Let me know what you folks think or have already done...I am always open to consider other ideas.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Works for me....

Dale
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

l would use a slot clevis welded into the end of the tube with a tab on the part you want to attach to. Checkout page 35 of this link: http://secure.chassisshop.com/pdf/Body-Fabrication.pdf

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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think if you weld a plate into a tube, the weakest point will be the bolt hole in the plate.

If possible, I would make/use something like the tubing ends Lostinbaja shows. Something with a double shear.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the suggestions. I was looking at it last night. The clearance between the tube running back from my mounting plate and the upper shock bolt won't allow enough space for a slot clevis. There is little more than 1.5" between the bottom of the sub frame tube and the top of the shock tower.

It looks like what I really should do is make to tab a little longer and fishmouth the top of the tab where it meets the tube and weld it directly to the tube. I can use half round short (1", like I said, not much room) sections of tube as gussets on either side of the tab, with a fishmouth on the tube side for added strength. This would give me four seams to weld the tab to the main sub frame tube.

I'll be looking for some of those slot clevises for a different application where I have some more room. I think you just gave me a great idea for a removable spare tire mount that is strong and doesn't use unsightly clamps or plates. I'm likely to re-engineer the attachment points for the engine cage with some of the slot clevises, especially where it attaches under the engine to the frame horns, where space is at a premium.

Thanks again for the suggestions.
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xirxious
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will it be pushing or pulling on the joint, or both? If its pulling, I'd make a U-shape clevis. You could also weld in a plug and drill a hole through.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may still add some gussets to the shock tabs, but I am rethinking that for two reasons:

1.) I have the subframe tied into three other places on the shock tower.

2.) I think that adding a gusset to the tab will only concentrate any shear potential at the very end of the tab, where it is weakest.

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I might double it up as a means of strengthening it, but not until later....I have a lot of other stuff to finish on this car if I am going to drive it this summer.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I totally misunderstood what you were doing. Pictures speak a thousand words.

I like the sub frame. My opinion is that if you shear/break what you have fabbed up, you have more serious problems to contend with. I think with a hard enough rear end hit, it would possibly bend the top of the shock mount upward/forward before sacraficing the mount you have.

Nice job.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. It was a long weekend. I still have a few more welds to complete, and a battery box to fab. My next challenge is to find a way to attach it to the rear hoop and suspend a rack inside the package tray from it while completely isolating it from the FG body. I have some remanufacturing of the existing engine cage to do as well, but that is less integral to the build and so it can wait.
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Glasser
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant! Applause Nice job.
Will you be running some bars down to the wish bone (To your solid mount) as well?

I'll be posting some pictures in about 20 mins of the way we tied my neighbors back half together . May or may not help you with some ideas.

This is a great build you have going Cool
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wythac
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I have a kafer bar assembly that is not pictured. It attaches on the inside of the shock tower, a separate assembly but strengthened by the addition of this piece. Look forward to seeing your pics..no such thing as too many ideas to consider.
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Glasser
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh that's right, I forgot about that. Embarassed
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