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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:48 pm Post subject: Need help with channel removal |
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As much as I appreciate the bugme video they only talked about how to get this section undone. I could see small divits at that bottom that looked like spot welds but I could not find any other ones. I have it cut inside about 3/4 inch from the firewall at the body seam.
This is a 65 bug, can anyone help me with how to do this? _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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harley611 Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 267 Location: Charleston, WV
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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If you post some more pics I may be able to help you. I recently removed my passenger side heater channel and am preparing to put a new one in. The removal takes some time and you have to pay attention. I had problems with the firewall area, but finally got it. |
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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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harley611, I will get them up by tomorrow, please check back. _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Pic of the fender well
Pic of inside where I cut along the factory FW metal
Another pic of the front where I cant see any more spot welds
On the bugme video they cut along the flange on the inside where I cut but this would only help me if I cut all the way around and would still be left with that front piece to remove. They did show cutting off a solid weld at the front bottom and I started cutting there but it doesnt look like it would help unless I cut a big piece off of it. I dont know what year car they were working with either.....
Anybody want to jump in and advise me Im all ears... _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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ocbugger Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2008 Posts: 96 Location: Orange County
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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There are more spot welds where the heater channel meets the heel board. The factory tucked the heater channel into the lip of the heel board as the heel board is hollow. Keep checking where the heater channel disappears into the heel board.
Good luck! |
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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, I was aware of the spot welds around the flange that mates the channel to the firewall. However, in the bugme video they indicate wels to be at the front side as I displayed in my previous post. This pisses me off but not enough to dis Rick & Sons as I think overall they have shown some nifty approaches to this channel replacement, however, I found this part to be the MOST difficult part to do as I am guessing others have.
There is one big honkin weld at the base of the channel and firewall on the left that needs to be cut through, I decided to cut the front section of the firewall off just to see if and how the front end of the channel was welded, I cut it in the same shape as the new channel and there are no spot welds, period. The bottom section might as well be cut all the way across which means you might as well cut the whole section out as I did and just replace the metal.
Also, in the video they show you to cut a small section of weld off at the base of the fender well right at the end of the spot welds outside and this is pointless as the there are spot welds going up further. I understand that the car they were using was delapitated but it would have been better for a few of us to have all the facts rather than some of them.
I have everything loose and ready to come out but my back is spent so I will continue later. It has been a good learning experience as usual! _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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I thought I might add one more note to this thread as far as what not to do, this is advice from a newbie. Dont be shy when you are cutting around the B pillar, my car had very smoothly welded corners at the base of the pillar and I was afraid to get too close to it because I wanted to save as much metal as possible, in the end I spent a couple hours grinding and cutting until I found the 20 or 22 gauge seam to remove the sheet metal that stayed up in the quarter panel. Here is a pic..
Again, this is my first attempt at something like this and need much more than the channels, I found rust all through the front cross member and both of the rear sides will need to be replaced as well as both front wheel well bottoms....
Hopefully some of my mistakes will help another first timer. _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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Jerry Hundley Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2006 Posts: 1181 Location: Chester, Va
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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I feel your pain buddy. I am replacing both heater channels,front firewall,rear chassis supports, both inner fender welss and bothe rear lower 1/4 panels. _________________ Jerry Hundley (AKA Slammed 66)
Because Stock Sucks!!!!
70 baywindow deluxe
65 slammed bug
69 bug
64 drag buggy |
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Keith Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2005 Posts: 3634 Location: Brodheadsville, PA
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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I'm getting ready to do all the same on my '74. I'm glad we have this support group! Take alot of pics and post them.
Oh and I looked at your gallery pics. I have the same crease in my heater channels as you do. _________________ Formerly known in the forums as "OVALTEEN"
"I firmly believe that some villagers from Botswana could probably build a better road than PennDot."- Splitty
"If you do anything to your car someone will hate on you for it. People absolutely love to complain and find fault with others. Don't let it bother you. Just live and have fun."- Lind |
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therealfrogman Samba Guitar Hero
Joined: October 23, 2007 Posts: 666 Location: Pueblo, Co
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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ovalteen wrote: |
I'm getting ready to do all the same on my '74. I'm glad we have this support group! Take alot of pics and post them.
Oh and I looked at your gallery pics. I have the same crease in my heater channels as you do. |
Do you find this irregularity acceptable? Are both of your channels creased or just one side? _________________ 73 Camper Tin Top/Type 4 1.8 engine, Single progressive EMPI carb, electronic ignition SVDA W/ Vacuum.
Really appreciate what Everett has done here. Almost like he hand picked some of you. I am very thankful for all the help I get here. |
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