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Installing 2.5" Drop Spindles On A '64 Bug With Drums
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Focker
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 2:23 pm    Post subject: Installing 2.5" Drop Spindles On A '64 Bug With Drums Reply with quote

Before…
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I’ll start by saying:
This mod takes some time and with any project if you are uncertain whether you can perform the task at hand maybe you shouldn’t, or at the minimum have a back up plan. I’m a DIY and not a mechanic. The following is merely some photos and minimal text of my experience. As with all upgrades/repair you should inspect all parts being put back on the car and replace as necessary.

Remove the tire…Still with me?
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After removing the dust cap (I used large channel locks (pulling the cap straight off) you should see 2 nuts and a tab washer. Use a standard screw driver and unbend the first tab so you can remove the first nut. Remember that the nut is threaded in reverse (left-handed threads) on the driver’s side.
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Now with the nuts removed pull the brake drum off. Be careful not to drop the bearing cage. I waited until this step to remove the speedo cable (Haynes does it earlier when the tire is in the way).
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Remove the 3 bolts holding the drum backing plate to the spindle. If you’re lucky like I was you can pull the backing plate off the end of the spindle without removing the brake line. Remove the Linkpin clamp bolts nuts, back off the Linkpin until you can easily remove the clamp bolts.
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Next is popping off the tie rod to spindle connection. I rented a tie rod tool kit from an auto parts store. They charge the full amount but will refund it when returned.
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Carefully tap out the Linkpins and keep track of the order of the spacers etc.
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Grab a crappy 3/4in. socket that will probably get ruined and knock out the Linkpin bushings.
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Ready to ruin another socket? Use a 12mm with an extension and knock out the Kingpin.
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At this point it’s a good idea to take the new spindles & Kingpin kit to a local shop for completion. They will press in the new bushings and hone them. After pounding on these parts for awhile I could see where damage could develop and that would be a bad thing.

Back together and ready to reinstall. I used the same 12mm socket with extension to tap in the new Kingpins and then used a vice to press in the Linkpin bushings. You will have to tap the bushings flush with the 3/4in. socket.
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With the drums/hubs...whatever...back on the bug, it's time to put the Linkpins back in their housing. See the funky groove? That's where you'll have to line up the clamp bolt & Linkpin until the bolt slides in to position without any effort. Once the clamp bolt is in position...Tighten the Linkpin and you'll see the assembly snap together forming a nice tight fit. This would be a good time to grab your grease gun and fill the zerks.
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My set up required me to use the inner hole on the new spindles. The outer hole was too big in diameter and I'm assuming that the spindles are somewhat universal?
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Now reinstall everything in reverse order, but remember there is special attention required when it comes to properly seating the bearings. It would be best for you to consult a Haynes type of manual for this.

Some things to consider...(Based on my experience):
Your alignment will be whacked! A friend from work who has alignment experience came over and painstakingly dialed it in for/with me. The spindles push the tires outward and depending on your brake lines you might have a problem.

The speedo cable didn't want to stay in properly...Here is my solution for this. I used a lock washer and spread it open enough to slip on the speedo shaft and then compressed it back together, preventing the speedo from slipping out of the notch in the dust cap.
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Now to consider the payoff...
Front.
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Lowered the rear to level it off. I didn't want the bug Slammed but I did want to lose the space above the front tire....I think it turned out nice. The best part is the spindles maintain your ride comfort...Did I say comfort?
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post! I just let the mechanic knock out the old parts from the spindle, but if you must... Wink

The other hole on the arms is for flipping the tie rod if you go real low and it takes the later year tie rod end size..

Nice car man!
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Focker
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

therealfrogman wrote:
The other hole on the arms is for flipping the tie rod if you go real low and it takes the later year tie rod end size..

Thanx for the info and positive comments.
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Azsilverbug
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice writeup. Now do i want to lower my 62? YES
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HerrrKafer
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've mastered the use of the macro setting, meaning you could sell parts on theSamba far more effectively than most. Smile

There's usually a groove and e-clip on the end of the speedo cable where it sticks through the dustcap, that keeps it from pulling out. I think I can faintly see the groove on your cable, filled up with gunk. Repro ones often just have a hole there for a cotter pin.
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Nellynel
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:14 am    Post subject: Re: Installing 2.5" Drop Spindles On A '64 Bug With Dru Reply with quote

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Very nice. That about the ride height I would like for my 59.
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MAYHEM
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done write up! Good pictures and the text seems to have hit all the key points.
A+ Very Happy
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bugdozer
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is really good to see a step-by-step. Thanks. Do you have any rubbing after installing the spindles?
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Focker
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HerrrKafer wrote:
There's usually a groove and e-clip on the end of the speedo cable where it sticks through the dustcap, that keeps it from pulling out.

Good to know...Thanx!
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'67 Type II ~ Lowering My '64 Type I
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Focker
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugdozer wrote:
It is really good to see a step-by-step. Thanks. Do you have any rubbing after installing the spindles?

Yes...When turning right. I've been told that stock beams stick out more on the driver's side. I also think it's because of the driver's weight and the car rolling to the left when in the turn. It's a very slight rub...I currently have 165R-15's but may try a 155 or 145...The 135's are too small for my taste.

I would prefer to keep rolling the 165's due to seeing no real harm so far. I'm a freak and check every time I get to my destination...It's been hard to see where it's rubbing. I've checked the headlight bucket as well and haven't seen any wear.
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Well, I started out with nothing, and still have most of it left!

'67 Type II ~ Lowering My '64 Type I
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Focker
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAYHEM wrote:
Nicely done write up! Good pictures and the text seems to have hit all the key points.
A+ Very Happy

Thanx...It's the whole reason I did a write up. I would have liked it when I did mine.
I just dove in thinking I would be done in one night with what I thought was just a bolt on drop. Confused
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14hotrods
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 7:42 pm    Post subject: dropped spindles Reply with quote

Excellent post!
I completed the same job about 6 months ago................not near as clean as your job looked. My bug came from a storage and had seen alot of miles judging by the worn king pins and bushings. I sure could have used your post then. I think my job took 3 nights and 2 additional trips to the parts house. Obviously, I under estimted the task and did not plan properly.
I had a set of 165/80R15 on my bug and they rubbed pretty bad, both sides. I ended up with 145/65R15 on the front. Maybe a little small for some.
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Jgowin
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 64 that I'm getting ready to do that same thing on, but I'll be adding adjusters and narrowing my beam. Cool looking car and a great post!
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Darkhorse
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:18 pm    Post subject: drop spindle Reply with quote

great post I'm going to attempt this
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Jean Michel
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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really cool post. I am now going to drop my 63 on CB spindles. I am going for an outlaw look, with Porsche 356 Lemeritz 4.5 j x 15 at the front and 6.5 j x 15 at the back. Anyone out there any ideas on tyre sizes to avoid rubbing?
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fastinradford
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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome man, we have the same jack stands Very Happy
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Soul Built
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff. It makes this task seem so simple....

One question. What spindles did you choose?
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Soul Built
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jean Michel wrote:
Really cool post. I am now going to drop my 63 on CB spindles. I am going for an outlaw look, with Porsche 356 Lemeritz 4.5 j x 15 at the front and 6.5 j x 15 at the back. Anyone out there any ideas on tyre sizes to avoid rubbing?


Rubbing will be minimal with 145/15's
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Focker
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soul_VW wrote:
What spindles did you choose?

I bought the proper ones for my bug from - http://www2.cip1.com
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BusterBrown wrote:
Well, I started out with nothing, and still have most of it left!

'67 Type II ~ Lowering My '64 Type I
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Focker wrote:
Soul_VW wrote:
What spindles did you choose?

I bought the proper ones for my bug from - http://www2.cip1.com


That ad is part of the reason I asked. I have used the CB Performance and Airkweled spindles before but never the CIP. With the price they are currently offering, that is great news.
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