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Front wheel bearing adjustment
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mattcuddy wrote:


I've always installed them with the long flat side towards the bearings. Is there a "correct" way?


i think they way you install them may be technically the correct way? i just threaded them on to a split bus spindle to show they fit and threaded on to the later spindle as an example.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,
I never meant to suggest that your price was out of line. No offense, I hope. C
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

none taken.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question, for everyone in here. I need an exploded view of original wheel bearing parts arrangement, for my 57 panel.
I have something odd, that was on the bus when i got it, and for the life of me, cant remember any of my other busses ever having these.
At the base of the spindle, there is a spacer ring (for grease seal to ride on) then, just after that, is a bellville washer on each spindle. Why in THE hell would those be there?
They would always throw off your wheel bearing adjustment dependant on load?
They were there when i pulled it apart, both sides. i thought nothing of it. but ive been having wheel bearing adj issues, and ive NEVER had this problem before. SO im blaming it on them, because a spacer i could see, but a spring washer? odd.
ANY input would be good from you guys. an exploded view would rock, next step, im taking them out and see how it does.
Thanks again guys. dave
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xavi_242
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hope that helps
http://oacdp.freeweb7.com/5867part/255.png
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Campy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bellville washer is a spring or wave washer?
I have rebuilt a lot of 1957 to 1967 bus front brake systems, and there never was an extra washer thrown in between the inner wheel bearing and the thick spacer on the spindle. The person who added a spring washer to each spindle was either spaced out or trying to move each drum out, further, for some reason (thick spacers not thick enough or brake plate bent out and hitting drum?). Whatever, the use of a spring washer will allow some side movement of the bearings on the spindle when under stress, i.e., turning of wheels, because the adjustment of the wheel bearing play using the inner nut wouldn't cause the spring washer to flatten out. Also, if the drum is further out on the spindle, the inner edge of each brake shoe would be at the edge of the drum and the inner bearing may not be completely on the thicker part of the spindle, depending on how thick the added washer is.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xavi_242 wrote:
hope that helps
http://oacdp.freeweb7.com/5867part/255.png


xavi, that page is broken.
Thanks though.
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Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
A bellville washer is a spring or wave washer?
I have rebuilt a lot of 1957 to 1967 bus front brake systems, and there never was an extra washer thrown in between the inner wheel bearing and the thick spacer on the spindle. The person who added a spring washer to each spindle was either spaced out or trying to move each drum out, further, for some reason (thick spacers not thick enough or brake plate bent out and hitting drum?). Whatever, the use of a spring washer will allow some side movement of the bearings on the spindle when under stress, i.e., turning of wheels, because the adjustment of the wheel bearing play using the inner nut wouldn't cause the spring washer to flatten out. Also, if the drum is further out on the spindle, the inner edge of each brake shoe would be at the edge of the drum and the inner bearing may not be completely on the thicker part of the spindle, depending on how thick the added washer is.


Thats EXACTLY what i thought. im taking those bastards out...right now. Smile thanks homes.
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Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.
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SCZ9-1-1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hazetguy's idea of grinding down 27mm wrenches works great. I had to track down a metric supplier and got a pair, ground them down and presto! They work great.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SO, after needing a nudge of confirmation, i decided to take those damn spring washers out from behind my bearings, why i ever left them in there.... no idea.
Im lame at times. Embarassed

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


SO the washer is NOT supposed to be there. If any of you ever have a PO/50's shop hack washer behind your inner wheel bearing. Shocked
My bus is like a new bus now. big difference.
Before, i would adjust the wheel bearings perf, then id get out on the road, and at certain speeds, id have the purring resonance of loose bearing adjustment. Id get piiissssed, and go home, double check, perfect. The spring washer was allowing the bearing to move inward, giving extra play, and making the adjustment out of whack.
Bus was a tad wandery, and yet all my suspsension is perfectly solid.
Now...h man. solid as a rock. steering is even tighter than before.
YAY!
Thanks campy for the nudge,lol. Cool
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Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.
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Campy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are welcome, mighty, but we all want to know why some dude installed the spring washers, in the first place. I would guess that he was rolling his own. Laughing
I build bicycles, part-time, and to hold that skinny inner nut I use an old Campy bike wrench. You can get a cheap non-Campy version at a bicycle store for little cost.
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xavi_242
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mightymouse wrote:
xavi_242 wrote:
hope that helps
http://oacdp.freeweb7.com/5867part/255.png


xavi, that page is broken.
Thanks though.


http://oacdp.freeweb7.com/5867part.html#q4

better?
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weird that that washer was in there. That would seriously mess with the free play setting.

I had a somewhat similar problem where some "mechanic" used the wrong size wheel bearing. Ran fine as long as you drove in a straight line. When you turn the wheel, the wheel tilted and locked up.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Weird that that washer was in there. That would seriously mess with the free play setting.

I had a somewhat similar problem where some "mechanic" used the wrong size wheel bearing. Ran fine as long as you drove in a straight line. When you turn the wheel, the wheel tilted and locked up.



Shocked that had to be a helluva ride.
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Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
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Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.
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sub-hatchtim
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

snap on carries some very nice slim line wrenches in 27mm that work great for spindle nuts
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don.ville Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my bus blog:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3685287#3685287


don.ville wrote:
Friday nite I decide to try again. I decide to give the screwdriver a couple more chances, then I removed the rear seal from the drum and take out the inner bearing.
Then I realize a 28mm craftsman socket fits perfectly in the space to drive the bearing race out. Three hits and it is out!

New one in and it is reassembly time.
Now I am trying to do this by the book so...

1) The book:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


2) The setup (got a free dial gauge from my uncle 2 yrs ago)...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


3) Final check
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I tighten the first nut to 20ft lbs just to get everything seated correctly, but DON'T leave it that way, then I back off the first nut, and tighten the second to about 50. Then I pull firmly outwards and push in on the drum to get the dial gauge to move .001".
I do this over and over about 5 times, loosening and tightening the first nut to adjust the axial (in/out) play until I am satisfied.
Interesting note is that after I get everything adjusted the way I wanted, the first nut is barely finger tight!
When you tighten the second one to 50 ft lbs, everything is rotating smoothly without play.
The final check is to make sure you can slide the thrust washer side to side with a screwdriver as in the third photo above.

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zozo
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that. I'll be needing it in a week or so.
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