Mechanic Scamming me?

[[email protected]]

Hey....I just sent my 78 Westy to the shop for a new Clutch. The Clutch is in along with a new tune up ( Plugs & Points), Now he's claiming it won't start because the computer is fried. I drove it to the shop so it was running when I dropped it off. Do you think he has neglected to hook something up properly or is he legit. To his credit he has worked on VW's for 20 years but it sounds shady because a new one is going to run me 300$.

[CommonRider]

I used to have a 78, my computer fried...oddly enough at a mechanics too. but mine was legit. good luck deciding.

[NeverHadaBeetle]

Your options depend a great deal on where you are located and if another mechanic is in the area. Go to the AIRS list at www.type2.com and see if anybody in your area can help. AIRS stands for Aircooled Interstate Rescue Squad and the list has members from all over the country. Hell would freeze over before I paid the guy $300 for a "new computer." If he replaced the clutch then obviously he removed the engine and he has probably neglected to hook up the wiring properly. Ask him some specific questions and if he even slightly blinks or whinces when he answers them the he is full of crap. Ask him if he tested the double relay? Ask him if he has made certain the fuel injectors are firing? Ask if he has used an ohmmeter to check the air flow meter? Ask him if the double relay is getting power from the coil or ignition wire when the key is on? For practical purposes the computer (ECU)cannot be tested and if the mechanic is just assuming it is faulty because the bus won't start then he is an idiot. ECUs are practically free on Ebay and I regularly see them for $15 and not even get a bid. Why? Because they rarely go bad and a multitude of idiots have removed them thinking they were bad. Whatever you do don't spend $300. Buy a used one off TheSamba or Ebay and take it to him to try. Of course he is going to piss and moan because it's a used part, but at least you won't be out $300. He is really going to piss and moan if that doesn't fix it, but the truth is that isn't likely the problem. Air flow meters are in the same boat, but at least AFMs do wear out and sometimes need replaced. Unfortunately this is usually the first thing many mechanics replace so many good ones have been removed for nothing. Good AFMs can be had for $20 or less on Ebay or TheSamaba. If you get an AFM just make certain you get a 1977-83 or a 7-pin rather than the 6-pin from 1975-76. Try to find an ECU from a 1977-83 also. Let us know what he says when you ask him the above questions and good luck with your bus.

[[email protected]]

Thanks a lot. I'm going there after my next class. the reason he told me the ecu was bad was the Fuel pump had power, the coil had power, but the injectors weren't opening, so he concluded the ECU was the problem. I'm going to have it towed to my house today, then tinker with it myself. Let me know if you can think of some tips I should first check for.

[NeverHadaBeetle]

Vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks. Check for vacuum leaks. Even a small one can keep the bus from starting and if the engine was removed then there are a multitude of opportunities to have vacuum leaks. Check to see if the fuel pump is operating with the key on. Remove the outside part of the air filter and gently use a stick to insert inside the air flow meter and open the flap as if air was being drawn into the engine. With the key in the on position you should hear the fuel pump kick on with the flap open and kick off with the flap closed. There is also a single wire in the FI wiring harness that connects to the coil. If this wire is not connected then the system won't work. If he used the Bentley manual to check the injectors then the Bentley will mislead you in those regards. He may have simply used a test light to plug into the injector plugs and then checked to see if it flickers when cranking the engine. This is the shortcut method to check the injectors, but the Bentley manual fails to mention that the microsecond pulse sent to the injectors is too short to produce a visible flicker in an ordinary test light. Unless you are working in a pitch black dark environment then the light will appear to stay on which indicates the injector is not getting a pulse from the ECU. The hard sloppy way is the best way to check the injectors. Remove the injectors from the driver's side and leave them connected to the fuel rail and wiring harness and simply check to see if they are spraying fuel as you crank the engine. Let us know more specifically how the bus is acting when you try to start it. Does it spit, sputter, try to start, or is there just no sign of life? That information may help us point you in a better direction. Did I mention vacuum leaks?

[toddgsanford]

If any welding was done on the vehicle (unlikely unless the bently manual has changed)can cause voltage spikes that can damage electronics. Had a late model vw come back from the muffler shop with a mysterious problem. but yes vacuum leaks and unplugged stuff does tend to happen. most of this is generally checked and rechecked by the technician. at least before making the more money call.

[jeremysmithatshawdotca]

Also check the head temp sensor on the #3 cylinder head, it has caused me problems before. It's just a little threaded plug with a wire attached to it. It has to be hooked up, and make good contact in it's receptacle. Jeremy