Fuel injected to weber progressive

[WAVEPIMP]

Just curious if I put a weber progressive carb on my 2.0L F.I. bus would I need to change the fuel pump to something different or will this stock set up still work. Any info. would help

James 78 bus

[keifernet]

You will have to install a Fuel pressure regulator... the carb can only handle 3-to maybe 5 lbs of pressure and the stock FI pump pushes out 10 times that! How's that RAG coming anyway? I can't wait to see it! K

[WAVEPIMP]

Hey Keith, You wouldn't happen to have one of these laying around would you? The rag is comming along slowly do to wife always gripping about me working on it. Hey can you do fender flares for the back? I'm gonna need some sense I had to cut them to get the rear tires in. Also If you don't have a fuel regulator, where should I go to score one and where should it be placed in the fuel system?

Thanks James

[keifernet]

James, yeah I can hook you up, we can engineer some type of flares to fix your mishap and if we don't like it we can cut them off and try again! I have an idea on how to make them look like the stock lines but just enough further out to give the neccesay clearance.
You could also go with an aftermarket low pressure fuel pump, got those too. give me a shout when you get some time, I'm out at the shop alot right now... later....

[breadloafdeluxe]

I got an electric pump you can have too.Wheelwell mishap,that was a good one Keith.Hmm... I think that would be a good name for a band.DavidK aka Mr. Dick

[keifernet]

I just couldn't bring myself to say it the other way on the forum! He stopped by yeaterday so I got to chide him in person!

[breadloafdeluxe]

Keith in the general forum you answered a post about oil additives.What's your take on fuel additives,octane boosters/carb cleaners.I think the boosters are crap and we do'nt need the lead cuz of barrel spacers,but the carb cleaners I'll throw 1 in once or twice a year since I know it ca'nt hurt. DavidK.

[[email protected]]

Speaking of barrel spacers, I have my engine out (type IV, 1700cc) and am going to replace the heads. I have read of different set ups regarding spacers and no head gaskets, but I am still confused. What do I need to do if I am going to have my stock heads rebuilt? If I buy rebuilts from a vendor? There are now metal rings between the barrels and the case, but there are also metal rings between the head and the barrels. From what I have read, that doesn't sound right. Any help appreciated, I'd like to get this one right the first time!
Thanks
Rich

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BTW, I have rebuilt 2 Webers and 1 Holley 5200 this year so let me know if I can be of any help. I think these are sturdy carbs and easy rebuilds, they just don't run well in the cold. The biggest issue I came across was which side the throttle linkage was on. There are progressives that are mirrors of one another, and if you get the wrong one, you'll have to put the carb on backwards! Rich

[keifernet]

DK, I don't do much in the way of fuel additives, I just run 92 or 93 super always, it may be a higher but I think you get what you pay for... More juice more power, less you mash the gas your saving in the longrun....no pinging worries, In fact if you look under the gas flap of your ride the sitcker may still be there that says minimum 91RON,Okay MINIMUM..... Now back in the day "PREMIUM" was 100 oct and regular was at least in the low to mid 90's.
Vw heads since the late 60's(or so i have read) had seats that could take unleaded fuel so that should not be a factor unless you have a real vintage ride.
I have also torn down engine that customers ran "lead substitue" in (lots of empties under the bonnet!) and there was always the biggest hunk of crap built up on the backsides of the intake valves and in the ports of the heads and on the chamber surface of the head.... That tells me it ain't no good....
I suppose a bottle of Techron or other would be okay once or twice a year depending on your driving/total miles, but at 3.00 a pop, I'd just rather put the super name brand gas in to begin with.
Everyone should do their own experiment... Run you ride almost out, put in 2 gals of 87, take her out on the freeway drive a few miles and stomp on it...
take note of any pinging, hesitation, lacok of power ect, then when that is gone doe tyhe sasme with 89 ect ect.... Some engines if when rebuilt were decompressed enough MAY run fine on the lesser grade....
I have rebuilt many type 1 engines and always decompress them (for the most part) as I figure the owner is not going to run nothing but the cheap stuff.....
If I put anything in my tank it is RARELY some techron if I think I 've bought some crappy gas at a station I don't use.
Or an ounce or two of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL...
Just like so much that has to do with VW's, it's a matter of preference or what works for you, (or for your ride!) later K

[keifernet]

I would like to make a correction to my statements, after re reading some research materials (I had forgotten) it was incorrect of me to state that 91 RON meant you had to run super unleaded, 91 is a euro spec and is the equivallent of 87 US standard.
I still think the cars run better and have more power and get better milage on the super, but run what you like, can afford or whatever works best in your engine....

[breadloafdeluxe]

I always run super unless I push the wrong botton on the pump. I got a bus case to build a 1776cc. I'm so excited.I need to give you a call w/ ? Talked to Grimes this morning he said hes drivin his bus and the rag ass. should be commin any day.Aloha D.

[keifernet]

DK, Call me next week and bring the case so I can look it over see what ya got.... If it will quit raining.... K

[breadloafdeluxe]

Wed. or Thurs. I was going to get it hot tanked,but I'll let you take a look first. I bought it from Donnie Smith,it's never been cut and the journals are smooth as a babies ass.I paid $150.oo. I'll giv ya a call. David