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Long-roofs Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2002 Posts: 2295 Location: Millwood, Wa
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Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Smaller slide hammer with 2 or 3 prong ends. Just be careful, don't be a meat-head.... _________________ ---
I have been on a treadmill drinking vodka, maybe more than once.
"No, I do not own a bleepin' leaf blower"
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jeremyrockjock Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002 Posts: 5008 Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:21 am Post subject: |
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I heavy peice of pipe, a length of threaded rod and some "Washers" made to fit the beam ID with the side shaved off so that they will slide to the inside of the bearing. Then slide the pipe just like a slide hammer and wala.
_________________ Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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kei Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2004 Posts: 33
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Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:54 am Post subject: |
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Hi, this is a very nice thread. I'm planning to narrow the front beam on my 1960 bus, but I have a couple questions.
At what point do you need a narrowed beam? Anytime the bus is lowered? Or is this more for custom wheels?
And what types of wheels is everyone using on their bus? Looks like most custom wheels like empi and such are 15 x 5.5.
And for the new side flanges, do you use the old ones for a pattern? |
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jeremyrockjock Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002 Posts: 5008 Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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I do things different from how I used to. I free up the center torsion retainer by total removing it and hammering the dimples back out. That way I don't have to remove the steering knuckle. I just cut the tube half way through and the retainer falls out. I leave enough metal to tuck back under the adjuster when I weld them on.
I cut the outer material off and weld 3/8" plate as the new side flange plates. Doing it this way the geometry of the beam is not changed.
Also I use the 1/2-20tpi set screw that comes with the adjusters. I drill the center torsion retainer 180 degrees from the original 14mm hole and thread it for 1/2-20.
I also use the original roller bearings instead of bushings. I have the machine the bearing fit though which is not easy. I have used a rotary file to cut the bearing fits. It take a while to get them to fit.
Other than that, I build beams the same way. _________________ Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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jerupke Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2006 Posts: 33 Location: Netherlands Limburg Elsloo
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Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:19 am Post subject: geat topic |
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almost got mine finished.... great tutorial Jeremy!!!! _________________ If it Jams, Force it.... if it breaks... it needed replacement anyway |
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Culito 11010101
Joined: December 07, 2006 Posts: 5865 Location: Columbia Missourah
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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So how much would you charge just to build me a beam if I send the old one to ya? |
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jerupke Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2006 Posts: 33 Location: Netherlands Limburg Elsloo
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:02 pm Post subject: send it..... to me????? |
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Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?! _________________ If it Jams, Force it.... if it breaks... it needed replacement anyway |
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Dave24 Samba Hack Purist
Joined: April 14, 2004 Posts: 7442 Location: Hablamos Ingles, So. Cal.
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:50 pm Post subject: Re: send it..... to me????? |
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jerupke wrote: |
Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?! |
I think the question was for the teacher, not the student. |
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Culito 11010101
Joined: December 07, 2006 Posts: 5865 Location: Columbia Missourah
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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For the teacher, yes.
But I think since my truck is kind of a rare model, I'm going to buy new stuff and save the old in case someone (maybe me) wants to restore it at a later time. |
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jerupke Samba Member
Joined: May 26, 2006 Posts: 33 Location: Netherlands Limburg Elsloo
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Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 4:23 pm Post subject: Re: send it..... to me????? |
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Dave24 wrote: |
jerupke wrote: |
Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?! |
I think the question was for the teacher, not the student. |
ohhhh.. (thank God....) _________________ If it Jams, Force it.... if it breaks... it needed replacement anyway |
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kevinh94 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2007 Posts: 268 Location: Nolanville, TX 76559
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Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?
it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?
I never understood the reason of measuring both sides, though I haven't tried lowering any beam myself.
Thanks
I really like this thread heck all the lowering threads for that matter.
Kevin _________________ Low and Slow is the only way to go!!! |
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Geoslavetoo Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2002 Posts: 87 Location: Tallahassee,FL
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:03 am Post subject: |
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kevinh94 wrote: |
Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?
it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?
Kevin |
Grub screw for the adjuster in the middle....think it all the way through |
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kevinh94 Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2007 Posts: 268 Location: Nolanville, TX 76559
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:42 am Post subject: |
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Geoslavetoo wrote: |
kevinh94 wrote: |
Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?
it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?
Kevin |
Grub screw for the adjuster in the middle....think it all the way through |
Gotcha.
Na I usually don't. I guess I like to do things the hard way.
Thats how I roll. I always to it the hard way.
I may have found a good deal. But I am still talking to a guy about it. Its a 65 but like I said nothing is set in stone so its not mine yet. I need to learn on these things though.
On the cuts I saw a Saws-all in one of the pics. Is that how you all do it? I would have thought cutting straight would be CRITICAL with these beams. So buying or renting a Chop saw would be necessary.
I know when I have used a Saws-all I usually go crooked. I guess with practice that could be changed but a chop saw would take the guess work out of it all.
I have never done it but I think thats the route I would go.
Am I wrong. You guys that have done it know more than I so am I?
Kevin _________________ Low and Slow is the only way to go!!! |
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Goshen Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2012 Posts: 833 Location: Miami. FL & Cartagena
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Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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What happens to the dimples in the middle of the beam ? |
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jeremyrockjock Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002 Posts: 5008 Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:44 am Post subject: |
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You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate. _________________ Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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Goshen Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2012 Posts: 833 Location: Miami. FL & Cartagena
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:25 am Post subject: |
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jeremyrockjock wrote: |
You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate. |
I believe that there are three dimples on the center of the beam... I am trying to visualize how I would hammer them outward.. how would i access them to hammer them outward ?
Is there a cutout that I have to make ? |
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tanhis Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2005 Posts: 655 Location: Rauma Finland
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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Drill them out.
To hammer them out needs so much force or heat that you have a good chance to bend the beam in the process. _________________ -58 Typ2 ambulance
-62 Typ 34
-65 Typ 34
-73 411 variant all metal custom
-69 typ 2, 9 seater
-89 vanagon camper conversion matkaaja
-08 3.0tdi phaeton |
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jeffreyned Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2012 Posts: 207 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:46 pm Post subject: |
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Has anyone calculated how much drop you get for a specified amount of turn of the adjusters? I ask because I'm considering a cut and turn of my beam instead of using the adjusters. As its a one shot deal I'd like to find some actual data from those who have done it before. I realize its probably not a constant figure as the amount of drop must be affected by wear on the leaves, but a ball park figure would be nice. I'm hoping to drop 3-4 inches by cutting and turning and then re-index the rear to match.
Thanks! _________________ '69 Bay Window Deluxe
'67 Single Cab Dual Chester |
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Busbodger Samba Member
Joined: July 08, 2012 Posts: 116 Location: Small Town, Tennessee
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:23 am Post subject: Please put adjusters in |
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...now I don't know you are anything but for the sake of the next owner - put adjusters in. They might not want it 3-4" lowered all the time. Should help your resale value too in case you ever want to sell it. |
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slow36hp scott wimberley
Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 3113 Location: mukilteo washington
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