Author |
Message |
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 2:59 pm Post subject: z-bar |
|
|
I have a 68 ghia, switched to early short axles so I would have more rim /tire options. I am pretty sure the short axle changes just the outermost part, not the tube length.
Can/should i re-use the z-bar set up?
searched, couldnt find the answer. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26325 Location: Douglas, WY
|
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 8:47 am Post subject: |
|
|
When VW tweaked the suspension and added the Z-bar, they used 'softer' main torsion bars in back, and let the z-bar add more spring when needed (heavy weight in back, cornering, etc) so the two work together. I'd say to use it, but I'm not sure if there are any clearance issues though.
-Andy |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
thanx for the info. Mocked up it looks like it should fit with the short axles.
popped off the torsion covers to paint. is there a trick to putting them back on? Bolt holes dont line up so "reverse of removal" isnt working. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Corwin Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2007 Posts: 798
|
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2009 12:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Fits fine - I have the same setup in my '68. Although I've been told by several in-the-know folks that you're better off ditching the z-bar and adding a kafer cup kit. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
brent bousman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2005 Posts: 259 Location: Annandale VA
|
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
Keep the Z-bar as they work great.
An old racing trick we used to do - You can shim it a couple of inches with pipe so it will activate earlier.
For the covers you can use 2 longer bolts to draw the cover in close enough to put the original bolts in. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
i'll take a look to see where to shim so that it reacts sooner.
longer bolts, excellent idea. Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
brent bousman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2005 Posts: 259 Location: Annandale VA
|
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Look at the end of the Z bar and notice how if you jack up the car it moves and takes up the slack until it gets to the end where the nut is. This slack area is where you can shim.
Since some of this is a "feel" so of course some like more slack and others even go with some pre load. To make it more simple to start I can get you in the ball park where I used to start about neutral. This means to set up a shim on a Z-bar, you start at the normal at rest stance. Shim from the end so that your normal setting is what the bar tries to maintain. Test by slowly jacking up the rear end of the car and watching how quickly the Z-bar ends are stressed.
Note that if you just jacked it up to look at it and dropped it back on the ground this stance is not the neutral at rest stance as you need to roll the car a little to get it to squat back to the normal stance. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 2:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Body and pan are still seperated. I have alot more rust repair than originally thought. When i get the two re-united i can get a look at how the z-bar acts w/ movement. Thanks for the info. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|