CV Joint Clicks

greenbus pilot · Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:54 pm Post subject:

I vote for more grease. Use a needle adapter and slip it under the boot. Try to get it to the actual balls and not just under the boot.
FWIW- I have cleaned mine a few times and observed some pretty heavy pitting, but they keep on rollin. If they get noisy, i will replace them.
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73kombi · Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject:

stupidsongs2 · Samba Member Joined: October 25, 2006 Posts: 550

How much grease did you add? When I rebuilt mine, you had to add an entire 4oz package of grease to each joint.

Source: http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm

Hoody · Samba Member Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 1948

One or more of your cv joints are toast.Buy GKN german cv's have someone who knows what they are doing build your axles.These joints are not cheap.Build them once.Or can surf and end up buying chinese garbage thrice.

Desertbusman · Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:45 am Post subject:

73kombi · Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:46 am Post subject:

Wild Bill · Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 8:28 am Post subject:

Jay. I have got to go to Don's this afternoon and push a couple of buses around his yard. When I get finished I'll call ya and come over to do some CV joint trouble shooting. My phone was off yesterday while I was teaching
a CPR class. Cool

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1978 Champagne Edition (High Top Camper Converstion.) 2.0L FI
1969 Squareback 2.0L

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timo78 · Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject:

Agree w/ not enough grease: I have always packed mine full on every vehicle I've ever done.
Jack it up and get a buddy to hand spin each wheel real quick while using a hose length as a stethoscope. Listen to each joint to identify where sound comes from.

kerian159 · Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:48 pm Post subject:

when I rotate the tire on the driver's side it doesn't make any noise really until I change the direction of rotation then it makes a clunk noise. I also checked the torque all but 3 where tight the 3 that were not had been stripped out so i'm going to be getting new bolts and then torque them down. Hopefully doing that will correct that problem. However after doing this work I went to drive it around the block to test and when I put it in reverse the brakes went clunk (I felt it in the pedal) so I pulled the wheel off of the drivers side to inspect the brakes and they are all still intact anybody got an idea about that? It only does this in reverse (automatic).

Thanks
Jay
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busdaddy · Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:17 pm Post subject:

When was the last time you adjusted the brakes?
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kerian159 · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:58 am Post subject:

it has been awhile since I have done anything with the back brakes but they do work (sorta) but why would it only do the noise in reverse? oh also when it makes the clunk the brake pedal looses pressure. strange...

thanks,

Jay
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1976 Type II Westy P22

"Growing older, but not up!"

Desertbusman · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:19 am Post subject:

Not strange at all. You say they sorta work. So they sorta have problems also. Whenever the shoes try to grab the drum, the drum tries to move the shoes in the direction of rotation. The shoes are held in position by the wheel cylinder at one end and the adjuster at the other end. It's not totally solid as if the shoes were solidly bolted in place. And without good adjustment there is even more slop available for the shoes to move around. So you could expect clunks or whatever. And since the shoe and wheel cylinder are pushing against each other any movement or forces transmit into the hydraulics.

So you've found out that your brakes have issues. Time to redo them.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

Randy in Maine · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:05 am Post subject:

Suggestion:

When you pull apart those rear brakes, spend some quality time with the wire brush portion of your bench grinder to remove the rust and crud that are making the "star wheels" difficult to adjust those rear brakes. I like to lube mine with a 50/50 mix of wheel bearing grease and anti-sieze to prevent them from rusting all up.

Put a little anti-sieze on the brake drum where it fits on the axle to keep it from rusting on there also. I also pain the outside of the brake drum after steel brushing it down to real metal.

I also used my wire brush die grinder to clean up the rear backing plates at the same time and painted mine "bitchin black" to keep the rust at bay.

I will bet that noise goes away with properly adjusted rear brakes and a properly adjusted e-brake.

Desertbusman · Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:23 am Post subject:

Yes, what Randy says. Also pay attention to where the shoes ride on the backing plate. If there are ridges or scoring smoothe those areas down. If shoes hang up there they won't work smoothly. Might even make wierd noises. I also put a real small light bit of lube on those bumps and also make sure the shoes are smoothe in that area.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy


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