85 1.9L main coolant in and out T repair or bypass

[camerahunter]

I have been spending some time researching this on the samba and the net but don't see anything at all.
What I'm wondering is if the main in and out coolant hoses on the firewall can just be joined together and skip the stock piece. It does have the bleeder screw there which I never opened once. They are also connected together with a small channel running through the center frame.
All things considered it doesn't seem like major modification to just get some PVC and join them.
Has anyone done this?
I am having a heck of a time finding the factory piece to replace mine.

Thank you,

David
_________________
1984 - Daily driver

[shadetreemech]

That part's NLA. I wrote the part number down in my Bentley when I replaced that puppy many years ago - 025121082. Bus Depot has one in aluminum for $174.95:

http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=025121082

You might be able to find a decent used one in The Samba Classifieds.


_________________
'84 GL 1.9
'01 Volvo V70 T5
'88 Westy - "MZDRTHY"

[tencentlife]

They can just be connected together, it's been done. It seems like whatever the bleeder port does isn't strictly necessary; I've certainly filled and bled enough 1.9's and never needed to use that to get the system completely filled.

Just don't use standard plumbing PVC, it doesn't have the temp tolerance required for long-term reliability, nor does ABS (PVC starts to lose stability at 140F, ABS at 160F). There are hose repair double-barbs sold as sets, made of soft grey plastic, which I think may be PVC, but if it is it's a special formulation. Those would be OK, I suppose, since they're sold for engine coolant hose repair (I've had a set kicking around in my on-road repair box but have never used them). Best would be some metal double-barbs, preferably brass, aluminum, or SS, for their resistance to corrosion. Plumbing supplies sell galvanised steel ones that would be OK.

Or spend the big bucks for those very nice aluminum replacements.
_________________
Shop for unique Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/

Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Experience is kryptonite to doctrine.

[zerotofifty]

ditto on plumbing PVC pipe, dont use it, not temperature resistant, risk failure. check with autosupply place, all metal or hightemp plastic splice parts for cooling systems are avalable in a variety of sizes.

[camerahunter]

Ok, PVC is out. I actually have a chrome plated brass drain pipe from an old sink that's the right size.
I also have an original piece from a Westfalia which has two extra outlets on the bottom. I was thinking of selling it as I only paid $5 for it at the junk yard. I got a couple /2 inch copper caps at the hardware store tonight for $1.05. I think I will cap them off and install that. Then I just need a gear shift to finish it off.
It is good to know they can be hooked together though. I will find a couple of those high temp plastic couplers and keep them for an emergency.

Thank you,

David
_________________
1984 - Daily driver

[Terry Kay]

On any position in an automotive cooling system skip the PVC thought process--it just isn't the right way to go.

If you want two stainless unions, with barbed ends I can make them for you pretty resonabe, and will put you up the big ladder of quality over the Ed Norton thin wall chrome sink drain pipe.

I don't think the thin wall will take the crush of the clamps very well and will be a sort lived repair at best.

The 0.65 heavy wall stainless ubions will outlast your Van.

Think about it.
_________________
T.K.

[camerahunter]

I appreciate the offer Terry. If I was keeping the van I would take you up on it BUT it's just getting put back together to sell.
I thought the engine was dead so I bought anther one.
As it turn out it was only a bad Valve adjusting screw which I fixed with hep from members here.
I just want to let it go and take the cash to fuel the head gasket repair on my 91.

Thank you,

David
_________________
1984 - Daily driver

[Terry Kay]

No problem David--

I didn't know the situation as far as you repairing it to sell.

I think I'm going to make up a few of these hose union assemblies for folks in the same boat--Might be a good idea.

This isn't the first time I've heard of somebody having the same problem with the NLA coolant hose union.

Take Care,
_________________
T.K.

[camerahunter]

Terry,
That would be good because I couldn't find one online so I finally just went to the junk yard here. One thing to consider is adding the small tube that connects to it from the expansion tank. That would just make things easier to put it back the way it was.
I think they would be easy to sell for $40-$50.

I need to get down to 2 vans here. I also just bought a 89 Golf 4 door (8 valve) for running around town. I call it the poor mans Prius. Only cost $600 but runs great!

Thank you,

David
_________________
1984 - Daily driver

[tencentlife]

I take it the chromed pipe you have in mind is a sink drain tailpiece? Not only will the thin material not support heavy clamping, very heavy clamping would be needed to keep the hoses from slipping off under the steady pressure in the system. The pipe needs to have barbs or a bead on the ends. I've seen enough stories of coolant hoses clamped to smooth pipes, and inevitably they always creep off.
_________________
Shop for unique Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/

Please don't PM here, I will not reply.

Experience is kryptonite to doctrine.

[WesternMassRich]

I would have no problem installing a piece of suitable pipe in between the four hoses where they join at the firewall and ridding ourselves of the stock H Connection.

I recently repaired the H junction in mine. The top clip where it snaps into he firewall was rusted out and the top part of the H connection had no place to secure it to the firewall. I did keep my H Connection because the actual connection was fine, it was the mounting piece that was hosed.

If your H Connector is in good shape, USE IT. Then Engineer a modified method to secure the bracket to the firewall. That's what I did. The hoses are in perfect position on the firewall once again. I actually drilled holes in the H Junction on the part where the top piece of the H fits into the firewall with the former metal clip. I then threaded a piece of fine cable I got from a hardware store through the hole I drilled and tied it together in back above the clutch slave cylinder using a small cable clamp. I terminated the ends of the cable with plastic caps so I would not stab myself with the slightly frayed stranded wire near the cable clamp.

And while I had it apart, I located 4 of the Spring type clamps and positioned the tabs so they are very easily reached for service or emergency removal. It took me less than 3 minutes to split the 4 hose connections using a pair of good sized angled channel locks. This makes it real easy to get in there and the hoses are very secure to the firewall. If you can manage something like I did, DO IT. It makes the prospect of having to get back into the four hoses A LOT less daunting. It's a stronger more secure system than used by VW.

I also fabricated a couple of real nice H Supports using large sized rubber coated metal pipe U shaped clamps and fabricating them back to back to form a H shaped properly sized support bracket that is 10 times stronger than the lousy plastic ones VW uses - they mostly are brittle and break a lot of the times and never stay fastened to the firewall. At least not up here in New England where the roads are not very smooth (tons of potholes) and the truck constantly bounces from road pits. Plastic supports like that do not cut the mustard up in this neck of the woods.

I say do it, but make it a good job, the hardware store will provoke a ton of good ideas for improving the H Connection mounting to the fireall but, reuse the 4 way hose connection if it is still in good shape.

Rich
_________________
1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"

[camerahunter]

Geez, finally had some time to install the Westy part in the Vanagon and the blasted bleeder screw LEAKS!
I have tried tightening it up but it does not get any tighter and I think the little knob will break off.
Does that little knob pop off so I can try some pliers?
Can I take it all the way out and replace an O ring or something?
It has a steady drip coming out now. Nothing else is leaking all the air is out.
Once this is fixed I just need to find a new gear shift and it's ready to drive again.

Thank you,

David
_________________
1984 - Daily driver

[WesternMassRich]

Hey Dave,

Yes, I do believe there is an O ring in that valve stem/bleeder screw.

I took mine out a couple of years ago when I was working on the cooling system.

Just be cautious not to overtighten the bleeder screw as it is made of crumbly plastic. See if you can find the O ring at an Auto Parts Store or Hardware store. They are inexpensive.

That should fix your dripping issue.

Rich
_________________
1987 Synchro, AC, PS, 5 Speed, 7 Pass., 2.1 Digifant. "The Kaiser"