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BC Westie Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2007 Posts: 331 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:33 pm Post subject: Bad Battery or wire? |
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Ok. So I drive an 81 Air Cooled. Had a hot start no crank issue in the summer. Cleaned all the grounds and it was still around. Changed the starter and seemed good for a few months.
Then it turned into a cold start no crank. So I turn the key, wait about 10 sec's then she cranks.
Today I came back from a long trip and the hot start issue came back. Waited 30 mins still no go. Jump started just fine. Is my battery crapping out?
Here are some Volt #'s"
Battery:
Battery resting: 12.6v
At the battery while trying to start 11.65v
Starter:
At the Starter, energized as key is in the start position, lights on the dash, prior to crank: 12.24v
Trying to turn over but solenoid click and no turn over: 11.6v at the starter
Battery time? 4 yearl old Interstate.
If so how the heck do you get them out? There is zero space to get my fingers down the sides. _________________ 1980 Vanagon Cali Import 86,000Miles
1981 Vanagon (Auto) 219,000kms
1981 Westfalia (Auto) Cali Import 169,000Miles
1981 Westfalia 300,000kms
1982 Westfalia Cali Import 193,000Miles
1982 Westfalia (Auto) 205,000Kms
1984 Vanagon 306,000kms
1987 Vanagon GL 300,000Kms |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:22 am Post subject: |
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You have asked a lot of questions. I would say it is a combination of all your suggestions. Your at rest battery voltage is a little low 12.6. The drop under load is reasonable, but tells me the starter is trying to engage. The battery is 4 years old. That would be near the expected end of life. Next time it won't crank. Slide up under the van and see if you can jump the large solenoid stud with a screw driver to the small spade. There may be two small spades. You'll need to figure out which works, but you won't hurt anything because the one spade is hot when cranking. If jumping the solenoid starts the engine, then you need to look at the wiring including the electrical portion of the ignition switch. If it does not start, then the starter and bushing are probably ready for replacement. To test electrical circuits, you want to in this example put your volt meter between the positive terminal and the solenoid battery lug. Ideally at rest, there should be zero voltage present. When you crank, any voltage recorded would be your voltage drop indicating bad wiring or connections. More than .5 volt drop could represent a problem and cause your problem. To remove the battery? Two vice grips on each terminal and a lifting action. Use caution to not touch the grip on the positive terminal to the chassis. Sparks will jump. Trying to troubleshoot starting and charging problems requires methodical procedures and some equipment. Heat aggravates connections and components with high resistance. Good luck. _________________ ☮️ |
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Munroman Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2008 Posts: 19 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:53 am Post subject: |
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When you replaced the starter did you change the bush in the flywheel housing?
I had starting problems and it was a 'burr' on the starter shaft which had messed up the brass bush, I filed it down and replaced the bush and all was well.
At 4 years old these vans give batteries a hard time though.
The best thing for starters is the adaptor sold by Karl at Westyventures which allows a turbodiesel starter to be fitted - awesome!
Best! |
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BC Westie Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2007 Posts: 331 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks guys.
Well jimmy rigged a make shift handle using a strong wire to pull the battery out.
Load tested the battery and checked the fluid and it was a 100%
But the negative ground wire was suspect. It has been repalced and it was a little coroded. Cleaned all the connections and she fired up with more vigor then before! I hope it stays this way.
Just about to put her a sleep for the winter but next year I think I will run more ground wires. _________________ 1980 Vanagon Cali Import 86,000Miles
1981 Vanagon (Auto) 219,000kms
1981 Westfalia (Auto) Cali Import 169,000Miles
1981 Westfalia 300,000kms
1982 Westfalia Cali Import 193,000Miles
1982 Westfalia (Auto) 205,000Kms
1984 Vanagon 306,000kms
1987 Vanagon GL 300,000Kms |
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newt909 Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2009 Posts: 39 Location: MA
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Also check the braided ground wire at your transmission. Its at the front and connects to the frame. It needs to work or the starter won't go. _________________ '91 GL |
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BC Westie Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2007 Posts: 331 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks newt909. The tranny ground was the 1st I did. From what I can see the tranny and the negative terminal are the only ground wires. I will need to add one more.
Anyone have any favorite spots for an additional ground? Or should I just re-route the negative terminal back to the engine. This is what I am tempted to do in the spring. _________________ 1980 Vanagon Cali Import 86,000Miles
1981 Vanagon (Auto) 219,000kms
1981 Westfalia (Auto) Cali Import 169,000Miles
1981 Westfalia 300,000kms
1982 Westfalia Cali Import 193,000Miles
1982 Westfalia (Auto) 205,000Kms
1984 Vanagon 306,000kms
1987 Vanagon GL 300,000Kms |
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ajdenette Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2009 Posts: 768 Location: Hope Valley RI
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newt909 Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2009 Posts: 39 Location: MA
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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There are several grounds attached to the body below the coil. Check them and the braided strap that grounds the engine there. They all need help at some point. I recently had starter problems, and though my cheapo volt meter said the battery was good, some hours of cleaning grounds, electrical connections and chasing diagnostics around the starter proved it didn't have the juice neede. I bought a new battery and she turned over as easy as could be, and started too. I had just replaced a blown wbx and was starting to wonder if my used wbx transplant was the problem. It wasn't and now I have nice clean electricity coursing through the van. Which addresses your idea of running a ground from the battery to the engine. The steel of the van is that ground, just clean them all and your are good for a decade or so. _________________ '91 GL |
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BC Westie Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2007 Posts: 331 Location: British Columbia
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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The more I read the less I think I needed to replace my starter in the summer but I was on a road trip and needed a quick fix with the kids in the van. Oh well. This gives me hope Already doing the main negative termnial last night made a difference so now I will hunt the rest down.
Good old electric's _________________ 1980 Vanagon Cali Import 86,000Miles
1981 Vanagon (Auto) 219,000kms
1981 Westfalia (Auto) Cali Import 169,000Miles
1981 Westfalia 300,000kms
1982 Westfalia Cali Import 193,000Miles
1982 Westfalia (Auto) 205,000Kms
1984 Vanagon 306,000kms
1987 Vanagon GL 300,000Kms |
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