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What did you do for your Bus today?
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kombisutra
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

September 62 standard bulkhead panel to be my new ride. Up on jackstands, pulled out both feeble leaf packs (reduced down to two leaves -repairing from idiot look), and pounded-in two "new" complete leaf packs. Very hard getting through center leaf retainers Mad, persevered and succeeded. Moved to rear, pulled spring plates and re-indexed for correct ride height. Ran "tuned-up" 40 horse in it and promptly seized it hard Shocked. Moved inside. Ripped out blue valor door panels Sick and Auto Zone door handles. Was so disgusted with these pieces, I actually stopped work specifically to remove them from the entire property. A half hour later after depositing them a mile away in a debris box, I fired up the hot water pressure washer. While it heated up, I pulled the fuel tank, then I proceeded to hot-water blast 40 years of shit, crack, mice and scum from every square inch of the engine bay, revealing the decent condition of the L87 paint. Nice Very Happy Pulled all wheels, blasted all four backing plates inside and out and the complete front beam, peeling off decades of thick cake and shmegma. Pumped all zerks heavily with grease and set in on the front brakes. Cut soft lines, heated fittings and disconnected them properly. Pulled decent shoes (to be re-used) and set in on wheel cylinder honing proceedure. One set of pistons came out easy. The other side required persuasion. Screwed metric threaded Chinese grease gun hose end into wheel cylinder inlet and pumped pistons out. Honed cylinders in place w/ three-stone and blasted connecting hard line clear with brake clean and compressed air. Cleaned pistons free of dirt and hardened scum, greased and re-installed. Brake shoes on, drums and wheels on, waiting for soft lines.
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gatorwyatt
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my point being one that does this type of work and have to blast powder coating off things quite a bit know how it is applied and how it is removed...people make it out to be a sheet of plastic that is sticking to metal by the grace of god...not the case.maybe if you dropped your wheels off and they claimed it was blasted and then powder coated and all they did was acid wash for an "etch" to try and save money and labor then yes i could see it but if they were properly blasted and cleaned as i do then i would say a fable...at least in my town.powder is some of the worst stuff to have to remove and being the lug nut holes are the greasyest part of the wheel my bet is all of the wheels it happened to were inproperly prepped...
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Ian
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think this is a case where ya'll will have to agree to disagree.

what's that saying...

"better safe than sorry".....
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gatorwyatt
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i guess...
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hugheseum
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

or it could be a east coast west thing.......maybe our westcoast powder is crap compared to the higher end east coast stuff,all kidding aside im not a huge fan of powdercoating at all,its nice for tools or handrails/industrial applications but its a bitch to deal with or repair
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type241
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:58 am    Post subject: Powdercoating Reply with quote

I powdercoat wheels and have never had a problem. I blast wheels, then I spray down with degreasers that leave no films or residues, then I bake wheels in oven for an hour to remove any other contaminants. THEN AND ONLY THEN do the powdercoating. It is the same principle as painting. Prep is where it counts. I have thousands of miles on numerous sets of wheels and ZERO issues. Anyone wiliing to ship their bus wheels or bumpers to me I have a perfect match to L82 Silver White. Les Schwab BLOWS DICK PERIOD. I wouldn't trust them to put air in my tires. I generally charge $50 a wheel to blast/powdercoat. The hardest part about VW wheels is where the rim and center join(buttcrack). Sand and debris doesn't come out very well. The powder sometimes wants to bridge over the debris. PREP. PREP. PREP. I use aluminum foil for masking. The foil ends up powdercoated also. You can take the foil and wad it up with no powder cracking. You want green foil for XMAS? Orange for Halloween?
Powderoating is great shit until you try and remove it as Gatorwyatt was saying.
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ricekooker
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No work today and the FedEx man just happened to show up with my new exhaust Cool

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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 5:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Powdercoating Reply with quote

type241 wrote:
I powdercoat wheels and have never had a problem. I blast wheels, then I spray down with degreasers that leave no films or residues, then I bake wheels in oven for an hour to remove any other contaminants. THEN AND ONLY THEN do the powdercoating. It is the same principle as painting. Prep is where it counts. I have thousands of miles on numerous sets of wheels and ZERO issues. Anyone wiliing to ship their bus wheels or bumpers to me I have a perfect match to L82 Silver White. Les Schwab BLOWS DICK PERIOD. I wouldn't trust them to put air in my tires. I generally charge $50 a wheel to blast/powdercoat. The hardest part about VW wheels is where the rim and center join(buttcrack). Sand and debris doesn't come out very well. The powder sometimes wants to bridge over the debris. PREP. PREP. PREP. I use aluminum foil for masking. The foil ends up powdercoated also. You can take the foil and wad it up with no powder cracking. You want green foil for XMAS? Orange for Halloween?
Powderoating is great shit until you try and remove it as Gatorwyatt was saying.


So I have to ask, though this is seeming to be a case of beating a dead horse. Could you do us all a favor and remove a lug bolt from one (or several) of your PC'ed wheels and take a picture of the bolt seating area? (gatorwyatt, I would like to ask you to do the same) I am curious if all that prep actually keeps the PC from chipping away under the lug bolt when you torque it down. That is where the issue lies. Now, maybe you mask off those areas when you shoot the PC, and that's fine. But if I have wheels done and the guy does not mask the area, would it not make sense to remove the PC from that surface?

I am not trying to start shit, I am actually trying to end it. I choose to clean that area with a modified beetle lug bolt that I chuk in my drill. Cheap, actually free, insurance.
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David Raistrick
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

58deluxerag wrote:
gatorwyatt wrote:
getting somone to admit they screwed up and did not tighten a wheel sufficiently will be hard to find than sasquatch...


I forgot to tighten a wheel on my Beetle once. Whoops.


I still haven't found that rear wheel I lost when I forgot to tighten mine.... All I found were 4 of the 5 lugs. Sad
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gatorwyatt
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

powder will not just crack and fall off if the area is blasted...the mechanical bond is so great between powder and a blasted properly substrate that sometimes i have to have things chemically stripped before i can actually blast it.

i am going with the theory that your west coast powder coater did not properly prep your guys wheels.

type241 when i see the powder holding trash in the butcrack of the wheel it is usaully because the wheel still had paint or grease down there...also to get the powder to flow deep down there you have to pre heat the wheel then shoot the powder on...the curent is not flowing in the seem it is jumping across the gap therefore your powder isnt flowing down there cool.
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wanted:
RHD Barndoor floor mat..reproduction is fine

RHD Barndoor speedo cable

RHD Barndoor clutch cable

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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That all makes sense, but could you still humor me (us)?
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Campy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back in 1981, I bought a set of two new wider than normal, powder coated wheels for the rear of my 1957 bus (wheel well panels had been cut out) and I drove that sucker until 2004. I parked it after I finished my camper and the lug bolts never did come loose. I hope that it wasn't just dumb luck.
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hugheseum
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

campy....those were probably east coast powdercoat...totally different stuff
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auslander
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the motor got a long list of work i will be doing on the bus, let the fun begin!!!

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barnduude
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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alo,
making her ready for halloween Laughing


grtz to all.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Campy wrote:
Back in 1981, I bought a set of two new wider than normal, powder coated wheels for the rear of my 1957 bus (wheel well panels had been cut out) and I drove that sucker until 2004. I parked it after I finished my camper and the lug bolts never did come loose. I hope that it wasn't just dumb luck.


If you still have them, could you take a few pics of the lug bolts seats for us? I am really, honestly, curious.
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Da TOW'D
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ruf our single cab has a fresh air 40 hp engine and since we converted it to 12v I disarmed the 6v choke on the 28 pict carb.
The weather is getting colder so I figured it would be time to hook up the good old manual choke 28PCI carb. I rebuilt the carb using 3 for parts.

We found the choke cable has been hacked just above the transaxle.
I'm going to try to splice a pull wire and see if I can get the choke to work, manana

Replaced the damaged extractor exhaust with a one size fits all tuned glass pack extractor.
Hooked up the fresh air heater but found a missing section of duct . Soup cans and duct tape fix.
Changed the oil and cleaned the screen .
Adjusted the valves and replaced the plugs.
Smiled at the Perlux point replacement ignition.
Adjusted the brakes and checked the old bias ply tires
Ready to laugh at the winter weather
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faster
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well got my wheels back blasted only no powder coat this time.
But what I did fine after taking a good look at them is 4 are thing wheels and the spare is a bus wheel glad I didn`t spend the money for PC.
I`m going to run them for now just as the po did I guess the offset works on a bus.

bus on the right.
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stephenmullens
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

faster wrote:
Well got my wheels back blasted only no powder coat this time.
But what I did fine after taking a good look at them is 4 are thing wheels and the spare is a bus wheel glad I didn`t spend the money for PC.
I`m going to run them for now just as the po did I guess the offset works on a bus.

bus on the right.
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how do you tell a thing wheel from a bus wheel?
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vwboop
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thing wheels don't have any gaps. Unlike the wheel pictured right
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