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zmotojason
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2006
Posts: 71
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 Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:55 am Post subject: Thru-rod diameter |
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| Thru rods for a 10" over beam are $84 at Moore Parts. I was thinking about getting some threaded rod from McMaster and making my own, but don't know the rod diameter that is typically used. I found one post that said 1/2", but wanted to confirm. |
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HILLAHOLIC
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Elyria, Ohio
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avalonbug
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Aliso Viejo, Ca.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:52 pm Post subject: Re: Thru-rod diameter |
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| zmotojason wrote: |
| Thru rods for a 10" over beam are $84 at Moore Parts. I was thinking about getting some threaded rod from McMaster and making my own, but don't know the rod diameter that is typically used. I found one post that said 1/2", but wanted to confirm. |
pacific customs has them for $55
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takotruckin
SUPER Baja
Joined: August 14, 2005
Posts: 2378
Location: stuck in fresno, ca
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baja5
Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2004
Posts: 4326
Location: Ramona,Ca.
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HamburgerBrad
Je suis Napoléon!
Joined: February 21, 2003
Posts: 6957
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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if you do buy the nut and rod separately, do be sure the threads match. the above posted rod is 1/2"-13, this nut is 1/2"-20
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Skidmark
Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2005
Posts: 2988
Location: Minden, NV
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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Since these thru rods are the only thing holding your trailing arms in the beam, I decided to go the chromoly route from Kartek. I would never run all-thread for thru rods... I wouldn't trust it. Again, this is a strength point that you do not want to fail. Stretching is an issue as well. That's why I opted for the stronger material. They are .500" thick with only an inch or so with threads on the end. These require the opposite end to be welded on (end bushing provided).
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c jaklevick
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2009
Posts: 17
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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i have used all thread on the race car for 4 years now. i change it once a year, and have no problem yet  |
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crisis68
Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2008
Posts: 199
Location: yucaipa,ca
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm running 1/2 inch grade 8 all thread from mcmaster. Seems to be working good. |
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HILLAHOLIC
Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2007
Posts: 110
Location: Elyria, Ohio
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not very easy on my ride. I run fox 2.0 air shocks on the front with 1/2" all thread and rolled it bad 3 times this year. I actually bent 2 thing trailing arms and the all thread held up.
If you haven’t seen this video here is one that they held up on.
Link
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BugMan114
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:42 am Post subject: |
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lol, i laugh my ass off everytime i see that vid, lol. its amazing that it held up so well.
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1974 Super Beetle: Custom resto in progress
1972 Super Beetle: Daily Driver
1971 Std. Beetle w/ 1929 Mercedes Benz Gazelle kit
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Sand Rail- FUBAR
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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DONT
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2006
Posts: 338
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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| I remember Scott the Viking saying with the loads on the trailing arms, he would use rope with knots as through rods. Personally I used all thread on a previous car without issue and again on my current car (untested on current) |
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HamburgerBrad
Je suis Napoléon!
Joined: February 21, 2003
Posts: 6957
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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| DONT wrote: |
| I remember Scott the Viking saying with the loads on the trailing arms, he would use rope with knots as through rods. Personally I used all thread on a previous car without issue and again on my current car (untested on current) |
The load is on the trailing arms as long as you're going in a straight line. Once you turn, the inside set of trailing arms is going to want to come out the end.
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OGST | CU05 | OGJHC
1970 baja|1953 oval
Wanted: two beat up, ugly, curb rashed 6" phone dial wheels |
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BugMan114
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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So it seems the general consensus is that all thread will work just fine. i mean if rolling a car over hard enough to bend the trailing arms, won't break them, they they must be fine, lol.
_________________
1974 Super Beetle: Custom resto in progress
1972 Super Beetle: Daily Driver
1971 Std. Beetle w/ 1929 Mercedes Benz Gazelle kit
1960 Baja Bug
1969 Baja Bug
Sand Rail- Homemade
Sand Rail- FUBAR
Aircooled Airheads
Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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bugninva
Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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all-thread is fine and has been used for years... the torsion arms transmit their loads to the beam through the bushings and bearings, there is very little straight "out" force on the arms... think about how they were held on from the factory, with a grubscrew. 
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zmotojason
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2006
Posts: 71
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| Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks to all for the input. I am going with 1/2-20 plain steel threaded rod (58 ksi tensile strength) from McMaster. Total cost for the 2 rods and 4 collars is $32.62. If my caclulations are correct, the thread pullout should be
58,000 lb/in^2 * 0.1599 in^2 = 9274 lb
I would think that this is definitely higher than a grub screw. |
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